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Almost every time I’ve read/heard what manufacturers consider ‘normal’ oil consumption it’s 1 quart every 800-1000 miles. I’m not saying that’s acceptable, but I think that’s what you will find when you ask.
Almost every time I’ve read/heard what manufacturers consider ‘normal’ oil consumption it’s 1 quart every 800-1000 miles. I’m not saying that’s acceptable, but I think that’s what you will find when you ask.
One thing I would check is that all the pulleys align. Since the idler was changed I’d pay close attention to that one.
One thing I would check is that all the pulleys align. Since the idler was changed I’d pay close attention to that one.
[quote=”DieselMan” post=42141]Vehicle: ’99 Mitsubishi Eclipse 2.0L….Is there anything other than the heater core that could not cause it to blow heat and lose coolant?[/quote]
Could be a lot of things, hopefully it’s something simple.
Is there a heater valve in the system that’s stuck closed not letting coolant into the heater core?
If it is a heater core, maybe you can just flush it rather than replace it.Is it actually loosing coolant or was it not topped off fully and is just taking coolant from the overflow into the radiator?Any signs of coolant on the ground after you park it for a while?
[quote=”DieselMan” post=42141]Vehicle: ’99 Mitsubishi Eclipse 2.0L….Is there anything other than the heater core that could not cause it to blow heat and lose coolant?[/quote]
Could be a lot of things, hopefully it’s something simple.
Is there a heater valve in the system that’s stuck closed not letting coolant into the heater core?
If it is a heater core, maybe you can just flush it rather than replace it.Is it actually loosing coolant or was it not topped off fully and is just taking coolant from the overflow into the radiator?Any signs of coolant on the ground after you park it for a while?
[quote=”cascivic” post=41530]…ANother one that i couldnt beleive how expensive it was(not snappy) but was like
night and day compared to anything else ive ever used was my knipex needle nose[/quote]+1 on Knipex, they are the Rolls-Royce of plier manufacturers, insanely expensive but worth every penny.
[quote=”cascivic” post=41530]…ANother one that i couldnt beleive how expensive it was(not snappy) but was like
night and day compared to anything else ive ever used was my knipex needle nose[/quote]+1 on Knipex, they are the Rolls-Royce of plier manufacturers, insanely expensive but worth every penny.
[quote=”mckrishes” post=40387]$200 per quart? Wow that’s expensive.[/quote]
That’s because they fresh squeeze their dinosaurs. Ever try to catch and then squeeze a dinosaur? It’s not easy.
[quote=”mckrishes” post=40387]$200 per quart? Wow that’s expensive.[/quote]
That’s because they fresh squeeze their dinosaurs. Ever try to catch and then squeeze a dinosaur? It’s not easy.
It only gets worse. I saw an article about what is proposed for OBD-3 and one of the things they are talking about is to have the vehicle actually report any emissions related failure immediately.
It only gets worse. I saw an article about what is proposed for OBD-3 and one of the things they are talking about is to have the vehicle actually report any emissions related failure immediately.
I think the ECM would be on the ‘control’ side of the fuel pump relay, not driving the pump directly so I’d think the fuel pump would have a separate fuse – I would check a wiring diagram to make sure. If the relay had a shorted coil, that would do it.
Does the fuse blow even with the ignition just on for 30 seconds? If that’s the case maybe you can disconnect the outputs and plug things in one at a time to see if you can narrow it down like that.
If that doesn’t work, I would check using a clamp-on style ammeter probe, clamp it around each output wire at the ECM and see who’s drawing all that power. As far as testing a 20A circuit with a 10A meter, I know those clamp probes step-down the readings so you can actually test up to 80A. If you don’t have access to one of those then you would have to put the probes of your meter in series with each circuit, but like you said, I’d be concerned about running 20A though a 10A meter – make sure it’s one that is fused.
I think the ECM would be on the ‘control’ side of the fuel pump relay, not driving the pump directly so I’d think the fuel pump would have a separate fuse – I would check a wiring diagram to make sure. If the relay had a shorted coil, that would do it.
Does the fuse blow even with the ignition just on for 30 seconds? If that’s the case maybe you can disconnect the outputs and plug things in one at a time to see if you can narrow it down like that.
If that doesn’t work, I would check using a clamp-on style ammeter probe, clamp it around each output wire at the ECM and see who’s drawing all that power. As far as testing a 20A circuit with a 10A meter, I know those clamp probes step-down the readings so you can actually test up to 80A. If you don’t have access to one of those then you would have to put the probes of your meter in series with each circuit, but like you said, I’d be concerned about running 20A though a 10A meter – make sure it’s one that is fused.
He is talking about using the wrong type of sparkplug – some have longer reach into the combustion chamber. Double check that the right plug was used (maybe compare them to one you took out).
As for blue smoke, like spelunkerd said, when you overfill the crankcase there is certainly a possibility that oil is being sucked into the PCV system and burned.