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I’ve had mine for a while now and for the most part my air impact has sat almost unused ever since.
The only negative things I can say about the W7150 are it’s heavier and bigger than the air powered unit, the fwd/rev control is in a bad spot for me – I seem to hit it by mistake a lot. On the plus side it puts most 1/2” air impacts to shame, you don’t have to wrestle and snake the air hose around, and the battery lasts a really long time. I did hear that Milwaukee is supposed to come out with one that’s comparable but will also have a brushless motor.I’ve had mine for a while now and for the most part my air impact has sat almost unused ever since.
The only negative things I can say about the W7150 are it’s heavier and bigger than the air powered unit, the fwd/rev control is in a bad spot for me – I seem to hit it by mistake a lot. On the plus side it puts most 1/2” air impacts to shame, you don’t have to wrestle and snake the air hose around, and the battery lasts a really long time. I did hear that Milwaukee is supposed to come out with one that’s comparable but will also have a brushless motor.Hopefully it will, but I kind of doubt it. It would be like Snap-on dropping it’s price because Mac has a similar tool for less. So far the IR and Milwaukee are priced about the same. The people that buy this kind of stuff just write it off as part of a business expense, I don’t think there is much of a market for these things in the ‘shade tree’ mechanic segment.
Hopefully it will, but I kind of doubt it. It would be like Snap-on dropping it’s price because Mac has a similar tool for less. So far the IR and Milwaukee are priced about the same. The people that buy this kind of stuff just write it off as part of a business expense, I don’t think there is much of a market for these things in the ‘shade tree’ mechanic segment.
[quote=”dollman0″ post=64384]My thoughts on this:
Perhaps the clutch disc is worn enough that the clutch spring diaphragm has moved away from the release bearing limiting the stroke of the slave piston. The clutch fork could also be worn on the rocker ball and the pads under the bearing. Before hydraulic clutches were around, it was common to adjust a low pedal due to wear.I think that valve is some type of accumulator to dampen the release of the clutch and don’t think that is your problem. If you think the valve is the problem, you can build a temporary line to go around that valve to see if it will shift properly. Just a suggestion.[/quote]
When I saw pictures of that valve i thought the same thing, should be pretty easy to bypass it.
[quote=”dollman0″ post=64384]My thoughts on this:
Perhaps the clutch disc is worn enough that the clutch spring diaphragm has moved away from the release bearing limiting the stroke of the slave piston. The clutch fork could also be worn on the rocker ball and the pads under the bearing. Before hydraulic clutches were around, it was common to adjust a low pedal due to wear.I think that valve is some type of accumulator to dampen the release of the clutch and don’t think that is your problem. If you think the valve is the problem, you can build a temporary line to go around that valve to see if it will shift properly. Just a suggestion.[/quote]
When I saw pictures of that valve i thought the same thing, should be pretty easy to bypass it.
[quote=”87FoRunner” post=63243]what is the experience time before taking the G1? I know the rest are 2 years…[/quote]
1yr for G1
[quote=”87FoRunner” post=63243]what is the experience time before taking the G1? I know the rest are 2 years…[/quote]
1yr for G1
Yes, it is possible for the clutch master cylinder to go bad and not leak – basically what can happen is fluid leaks past the piston cup but it just goes back into the reservoir. That’s not the case for the slave though.
The slave should start moving as soon as the other person starts pushing on the pedal. Is there any play at all down at the release fork? Any bulges in the hoses?
Yes, it is possible for the clutch master cylinder to go bad and not leak – basically what can happen is fluid leaks past the piston cup but it just goes back into the reservoir. That’s not the case for the slave though.
The slave should start moving as soon as the other person starts pushing on the pedal. Is there any play at all down at the release fork? Any bulges in the hoses?
Sounds to me like the clutch slave cylinder travel is not enough to disengage the clutch. What I would do is have someone push the clutch pedal while you watch when the slave starts to move. If you have to move the pedal quite a way to get the slave to move then that’s the problem.
If it’s easy to bleed you may want to just give that a shot.
I don’t think it’s a bad clutch – if you can stall it by releasing the clutch then it should be OK.
Sounds to me like the clutch slave cylinder travel is not enough to disengage the clutch. What I would do is have someone push the clutch pedal while you watch when the slave starts to move. If you have to move the pedal quite a way to get the slave to move then that’s the problem.
If it’s easy to bleed you may want to just give that a shot.
I don’t think it’s a bad clutch – if you can stall it by releasing the clutch then it should be OK.
I don’t think there is a problem with getting people who do maintenance work certified – it shows some form of qualifications for what they are doing. What I do have a problem with is if ASE treats all certifications equally. Will people with G1 certs have the same patch as someone who took the A1-A8 exams? If that’s the case the shop can shift the guy over from doing oil changes and have him doing a head gasket all the while telling the customer that the person doing the work is certified – the customer would be none the wiser about his qualifications,