Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorReplies
-
Okay, I have the answer. I finally got around to replacing the clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing and the pilot bearing. The bearings were all fine, and the clutch had quite a lot of meat left on it, but I believe that something may have been wrong with the pressure plate itself. The wear on the pressure plate did not look even and now having driven the car, the amount of pressure needed to compress the pedal is significantly less. I know there was a TSB about clutch chatter for my 2003 (and my VIN is within the range) – but originating dealership refused to help. So something was obvioulsy not right with the set. Getting into first is now no big deal – not even using synthetic fluid. Second gear is as smooth as 3, 4,and 5 now. Hopefully I will be good for a long time now. Thank you.
I have, in fact checked the hydraulic lines for leaks and such. I have also had the fluid flushed about once or twice a year. At this point, I think that I have made up my mind that it just may be the clutch. I can do that job myself. Have tools and live in a no-rust area. However, one last thing. With 70,000 miles on the clock, will I have to replace the pilot bearing at this point? I don’t think that I would be in there for quite a while after that.
Thank you for the response, but the clutch master cylinder has been replaced (and that did help some). The slave cylinder has also been replaced (I forgot to mention that earlier). I don’t think it’s a loss of hydraulic pressure. Pedal always feels good, first time in the morning to late on a hot day. The car has 70,000 miles on it with the original clutch. I had heard that Mazda did not use very good friction mterial (my year had a problem with clutch judder on stock clutches). However, I haven’t had that problem. I am wondering if it might be worth replacing the clutch disc with something else. It’s been a while since I did a clutch, but with a rear wheel drive car, it should be much (in my opinion) easier than and FWD.
-
AuthorReplies