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I was super excited when I replaced the battery sensor, but that actually didn’t seem to end up helping. Since the sensor is on the ground side, I checked the grounds only to find that they weren’t so great (i.e., a lot of paint underneath the battery ground to chassis), and that the engine to chassis was loose (and it also had a lot of paint underneath). In fact when I took off the ground from the battery, it didn’t even spark. So, I sanded down the chassis grounds and things have been pretty good. It still charges slightly higher than I want, but I think the grounds and the bigger battery will be it. If I was going to go one more step, I think I’d replace the alternator, but grounds and big battery seem to be the deal. Sorry for the previous post as I was really thinking that was it.
I contacted the site “ask and expert,” Got a hold of a Honda tech. My symptoms seem to indicate a bad battery sensor (located right on the ground terminal of the battery). Why didn’t the dealership tell me this? There’s even a TSB about this, but they’re too busy charging me diagnostic time. Battery sensor goes bad (that part has been revised – Oh Gosh), the engine computer sees the wrong voltage then continually energized the field in the alternator. Best thing to do- to prove – would be to read “indicated” battery voltage from the battery sensor using a Scan tool (not a code reader). Fortunately for me, this battery (4 months old) already has a damaged cell and is about to fail. Oh Joy! Admittedly, I have not installed the part yet to 100% confirm, but the symptoms and the reasoning seem way more sound than what I’d been getting from Honda before. Thank goodness for the internet and a few good folks still out there.
Yes, I really did mean 1.7 as measure through the battery able connection to alternator. On the 20 amp scale it was 1.7XX, when I switched to the higher amp scale it again stayed at 1.7 without carrying out the extra digits. I am more a parts guy rather than a good diagnostician. I will will look at the wiring diagram (I can figure that one out), but I’m not sure what I would be looking for.
Problem continues.
Using an Amp clamp, the alternator is putting out about 1.7 amps (not abnormal I don’t think)
The battery never gets more than about 14.5 volts – high and low rpm. (again, pretty normal)
BUT this is the third battery we’ve put in the car since 2013 – about one battery a year.
Since the Accord can take the larger 35 series battery size, I took out the battery box, modded the hold down, cut some more threads on the J-hooks and am trying the larger battery (as the 4 cyl. comes with the tiny 51R) Again, Honda technician tested charging system (so they said anyway) and tested good. I’m stuck with the idea that something within the alternator is keeping the field energized at all times, or (fear) that it’s some software in the ECU that is not allowing the alternator to shut down or free wheel.Total guess: U-joints on one of the driveshafts. Only happens at full lock, with the constant 4X4, perhaps it’s binding up a little. If you can grease the u-joints try that (some are sealed and you can’t do anything with them.) The last two Jeeps I had, you could grease them.
I did have the dealership check the charging system on the car, and they said that it checked out fine. My belief is that the charging system is not charging at above it’s specified voltage, but that the alternator just never turns “off,” it’s constantly charging at all times. This is “best case scenario” as I see it. I take the car in 2 or 3 times to prove my boil-theory (wife will never part with her car for that long and will not want to pay for said inspection). But let’s say that I can get away with that. The dealership agrees with me (long shot), but they agree. Solution, New ECM. Since I didn’t bring this up under warranty, I think that Honda just may say, the cost is on us. With no TSB available, no warning light (MIL, SES), I think Honda will no be enthusiastic about helping. In the end, it’s my wife’s car and it’s up to her what to do – whether I like it or not.
I would guess that they are the evaporative emission lines that vent fumes from the fuel tank. Those caps do not look factory.
I looked up an owners manual for your car (well actually a 2004 owners manual) and if you have an EVIC, you can apparently edit some of the car’s features. There is also a trick that you can use by just turning the ignition key on and off in sequence that should turn the auto-locking feature back on again. Please refer to your owners manual for the year car you have (or look up your owners manual on line). I recently had to pull the door panel on my 4Runner and the auto-down window feature stopped. I don’t think that you should need a Verus to get this working again.
DaFirnz. Civic needed the trickle charger, that’s why I sold it as fast as I could. Accord is the opposite, too much charge. I would be willing to pay for a software update, but at this point, Honda is not admitting that there is anything wrong. So, unless my wife wants to trade (unlikely as she’s still paying on this one), I think we’ll be the battery seller’s best customer.
Evil-i – Yes, I’m sure that you are correct, but there’s really nothing that I can do. With my wife commuting so much, she’s not going to want to continually bring her car in to a dealer just to prove that the battery is boiling water out. Even then, they (dealership) might not do anything.
The SkyActiv A/T locks its torque converter at about 30 mph. So it acts “mostly” like a manual transmission after that. While it could be a worn motor mount, it seems unlikely in a car with so few miles on it. I don’t think that with a computer controlled transmission that an A/T would lug so badly. Also, if I recall correctly, the SkyActive engine is designed to make decent torque at a fairly low rpm and lugging would not be my first guess.. However, the problem is that if there are no engine / transmission codes stored, then most techs will say something like (“bring it back when there’s a noticeable problem.”) Not because they don’t want to help, but if you replace a part and then that isn’t it, who pays?
I have a 2016, SkyActiv engine.
The reason that I feel it’s a tire issue is that at certain speeds an out of balance or slightly damaged wheel or tire can spin to speed that creates a harmonic vibration. At that speed, the wheel will “sing” but above or below that speed, it’ll be silent. I just don’t see an engine or transmission making a thrumming sound. It should be more of a constant, like a bearing growl, or a tappet click that increases and decreases with engine rpm. Anyway, I hope that you enjoy the car and don’t have any serious problems with it.
Nightflyr: I understand and agree, but if there are no codes and the dealership gives me a smile and a thumbs up, then there’s really nothing I can do. I honestly don’t think that it is going over 14.5 volts, problem is that it is evidently never going much below that (as “if”) all accessories were on at all times.
DaFirnz: Wow it’s odd you should say that. I had a 2013 Civic Si that did exactly that (dead battery all the time). With the Accord, Honda says, nothing’s wrong. Yes, you’re right this is the 4cy / CVT Accord. That is also what I’m afraid of. This is now going to be a constant problem about having to go through batteries on an almost annual basis. With Honda waving at us as we drive (tow?) by the dealer.
Since you specifically say that the sound mostly occurs on certain roads or road surfaces, I think that it sounds like a tire issue. Of course you could only prove this by putting different tires on it. However, the one thing that I would suggest is that if you have the A/T. You can manually shift this transmission. You don’t have to race the engine, but just for kicks you may want to use this feature to run through the gears and see if the sound is more noticeable at certain RPM (like: it always sounds weird at 3500rpm for example.) I have the 2.5L Mazda 3. I only notice a funny sound when the car first starts from being cold. It has a high rpm function to heat up the catalyst and, to me, it sounds (at that point) like it has a hole in the muffler – even though it doesn’t.
This happened to me in a Toyota 4Runner. I had to keep a pick in the truck to push the over ride button. It was the brake light switch (though I do think that the brake lights were working) the brake lights must have been working sometimes but not at others. Try the cheap stuff first. It’s an easy DIY fix most of the time.
This is John. Replaced the clutch, the transmission was much improved, but it still was not really that good. It never crunched or made bad sounds, but it was never as smooth and easy as other Miata owners stated. First was better, but if you didn’t have it rev-matched second was difficult. I know people have their own favorite oils, but I don’t think that the Redline synthetic oil was the problem. The day after I had the clutch replaced, I got caught in a five-mile (uphill) traffic jam (fatal accident). Stop-and-go traffic for over an hour. Overheated the clutch (slipping quite badly). Clutch did not die, but somewhat damaged the new (el cheapo throw out bearing). Enough! I now drive a 2012 Miata with a very nice shifting 6 speed. Problem solved.