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John Ramsey

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  • in reply to: Hotter Thermostats #630650
    John RamseyJohn Ramsey
    Participant

      The final result of the thermostat change, (Honda thermostat with Honda gasket, and Honda Antifreeze)is a luxury that I’ve never experienced in my cars; Fast and enduring heat. My engine thermometer stays planted half way between cold and hot after a couple miles driving and I have wonderfully hot heat. I’ve noticed a gas mileage bump as well. The weather hasn’t been too cold yet but it’s obvious that the temperature is being regulated more regularly than it was before.

      The OEM Thermostat had a slightly different shape than the Orielly thermostat, but perhaps most importantly I realized that the thermostat had to be turned just so, so it would seat and settle in perhaps 1/2 a millimeter better than it would in any other position in block.

      My assessment of everything. The first thermostat failed half open, half closed. Hence the overheating at idle only, with improved circulation and lower temperatures at higher RPMS’s. The next thermostat was both or either inexact in construction and fit and improperly installed. It wasn’t as bad as no thermostat but allowed so much flow by that on cold days the engine never heated up, or lost heat when the heater was used. This thermostat… Perfect!

      Thanks to everyone for all of the help!

      in reply to: Hotter Thermostats #641477
      John RamseyJohn Ramsey
      Participant

        The final result of the thermostat change, (Honda thermostat with Honda gasket, and Honda Antifreeze)is a luxury that I’ve never experienced in my cars; Fast and enduring heat. My engine thermometer stays planted half way between cold and hot after a couple miles driving and I have wonderfully hot heat. I’ve noticed a gas mileage bump as well. The weather hasn’t been too cold yet but it’s obvious that the temperature is being regulated more regularly than it was before.

        The OEM Thermostat had a slightly different shape than the Orielly thermostat, but perhaps most importantly I realized that the thermostat had to be turned just so, so it would seat and settle in perhaps 1/2 a millimeter better than it would in any other position in block.

        My assessment of everything. The first thermostat failed half open, half closed. Hence the overheating at idle only, with improved circulation and lower temperatures at higher RPMS’s. The next thermostat was both or either inexact in construction and fit and improperly installed. It wasn’t as bad as no thermostat but allowed so much flow by that on cold days the engine never heated up, or lost heat when the heater was used. This thermostat… Perfect!

        Thanks to everyone for all of the help!

        in reply to: Hotter Thermostats #626936
        John RamseyJohn Ramsey
        Participant

          Just writing the follow up (Cause I always want to know the end to every story.)

          I purchased a Honda thermostat and gasket, and took it apart last evening. When I opened it up, I could immediately see that the gasket around the thermostat was all chewed up so my premise is that when I installed it last year I either didn’t replace it or fit it correctly when I put it back together and coolant was flowing through the radiator with very little to stop it.

          in reply to: Hotter Thermostats #637494
          John RamseyJohn Ramsey
          Participant

            Just writing the follow up (Cause I always want to know the end to every story.)

            I purchased a Honda thermostat and gasket, and took it apart last evening. When I opened it up, I could immediately see that the gasket around the thermostat was all chewed up so my premise is that when I installed it last year I either didn’t replace it or fit it correctly when I put it back together and coolant was flowing through the radiator with very little to stop it.

            in reply to: Hotter Thermostats #621145
            John RamseyJohn Ramsey
            Participant

              An update:

              The thermostat was what was wrong with my car when it was overheating two years ago. For whatever, reason the fans were not coming on and it would seem that the thermostat was stuck closed to some extent. When I replaced the thermostat, the fans kicked in at proper temperatures and it kept itself cool. My theory was that the fan sensor is outside the thermostat and since it was not opening the fans never sensed enough heat to trigger. It seems far fetched but the fact remains that no cooling fans were part of my problem and changing the thermostat magically fixed the fans.

              I highly suspect anything is wrong with the cooling system elsewhere on the car. I’ve driven up mountains with the AC on 90+ degree days and never had the engine temperature get above half.

              The 170 degree figure comes from all aftermarket sources of thermostats. Oreilly will only sell me a 170 degree thermostat “set to manufacturer standards.” Same at Autozone, with Napa recommending the 170 while making available a 180 and a 195.

              I know that the problem isn’t a bubble because I have good heat when it isn’t that cold. 40 degree day, I’m inside warm and toasty. But I’ve been on long drives up north that as it gets colder outside my vent heat fades away along with the engine temperature gauge. (It’s not like the air ever gets cold but it isn’t hot and loses pace with heat lose.) So it isn’t like the plumbing is blocked. It’s just like the engine runs out of heat to give.

              EDIT:

              Reading around, I’m realizing that it’s rare that anybody loses temperature once the car is already warm. What exactly does this mean? Do car thermostats typically open and close all that much while a car is going down the highway? I guess I’ll order a thermostat from Acura and hope that that solves my problem.

              in reply to: Hotter Thermostats #630801
              John RamseyJohn Ramsey
              Participant

                An update:

                The thermostat was what was wrong with my car when it was overheating two years ago. For whatever, reason the fans were not coming on and it would seem that the thermostat was stuck closed to some extent. When I replaced the thermostat, the fans kicked in at proper temperatures and it kept itself cool. My theory was that the fan sensor is outside the thermostat and since it was not opening the fans never sensed enough heat to trigger. It seems far fetched but the fact remains that no cooling fans were part of my problem and changing the thermostat magically fixed the fans.

                I highly suspect anything is wrong with the cooling system elsewhere on the car. I’ve driven up mountains with the AC on 90+ degree days and never had the engine temperature get above half.

                The 170 degree figure comes from all aftermarket sources of thermostats. Oreilly will only sell me a 170 degree thermostat “set to manufacturer standards.” Same at Autozone, with Napa recommending the 170 while making available a 180 and a 195.

                I know that the problem isn’t a bubble because I have good heat when it isn’t that cold. 40 degree day, I’m inside warm and toasty. But I’ve been on long drives up north that as it gets colder outside my vent heat fades away along with the engine temperature gauge. (It’s not like the air ever gets cold but it isn’t hot and loses pace with heat lose.) So it isn’t like the plumbing is blocked. It’s just like the engine runs out of heat to give.

                EDIT:

                Reading around, I’m realizing that it’s rare that anybody loses temperature once the car is already warm. What exactly does this mean? Do car thermostats typically open and close all that much while a car is going down the highway? I guess I’ll order a thermostat from Acura and hope that that solves my problem.

                in reply to: 91integra GS.. Serious diagnosis probs!! #598281
                John RamseyJohn Ramsey
                Participant

                  Could it be spark plug wires?

                  in reply to: 91integra GS.. Serious diagnosis probs!! #606793
                  John RamseyJohn Ramsey
                  Participant

                    Could it be spark plug wires?

                    in reply to: Welded Nut Inside Frame Broke Loose #598210
                    John RamseyJohn Ramsey
                    Participant

                      Well this saga has come to a close. I followed through on my plan and Dremel tooled out the bolt hole large enough to remove the loose welded nut and reinsert the new plate with the nut welded to it. I then took the car to Meineke and had the plate welded up for $152.00.

                      It felt like a lot of money but I just didn’t have the tools or the skills to weld the place in properly on myself, and I figured that the car was worth it to be done right.

                      in reply to: Welded Nut Inside Frame Broke Loose #606715
                      John RamseyJohn Ramsey
                      Participant

                        Well this saga has come to a close. I followed through on my plan and Dremel tooled out the bolt hole large enough to remove the loose welded nut and reinsert the new plate with the nut welded to it. I then took the car to Meineke and had the plate welded up for $152.00.

                        It felt like a lot of money but I just didn’t have the tools or the skills to weld the place in properly on myself, and I figured that the car was worth it to be done right.

                        in reply to: Welded Nut Inside Frame Broke Loose #597031
                        John RamseyJohn Ramsey
                        Participant

                          Okay, after much local consultation the current plan is to grind out the head of the bolt and then drill out the hole large enough to remove the welded nut.

                          Next I’m going to get another piece of metal and drill a hole in it. I’ll weld a new nut over the hole and place the metal plate up against the frame rail with new nut going up into the same hole that the old nut was removed. Then I’ll have the plate welded to the sub frame.

                          I’ve chosen to do it this way to minimize mutilating the frame rail any more than I have to. Thanks for all of the input that everyone provided and feel free to let me know if I’m missing something.

                          in reply to: Welded Nut Inside Frame Broke Loose #605324
                          John RamseyJohn Ramsey
                          Participant

                            Okay, after much local consultation the current plan is to grind out the head of the bolt and then drill out the hole large enough to remove the welded nut.

                            Next I’m going to get another piece of metal and drill a hole in it. I’ll weld a new nut over the hole and place the metal plate up against the frame rail with new nut going up into the same hole that the old nut was removed. Then I’ll have the plate welded to the sub frame.

                            I’ve chosen to do it this way to minimize mutilating the frame rail any more than I have to. Thanks for all of the input that everyone provided and feel free to let me know if I’m missing something.

                            in reply to: Replacement interval for Oil Pump #595798
                            John RamseyJohn Ramsey
                            Participant

                              Thanks everyone! I’m always happy to learn that the easy and cheap way is probably for the best.

                              Does anybody have any insights as to how long an engine can typically last before needing replaced or rebuilt? Oil pressure hasn’t been a noticeable problem. (No oil pressure light at idle or low speed) And I typically only burn or lose 1 quart over the course of 6,000 miles.

                              I only ask because of Eric’s experience with older Integras. Is 300K the end of the line for these engines and that’s why he sees them or you see 300K Integra’s come in and keep on going?

                              in reply to: Replacement interval for Oil Pump #603914
                              John RamseyJohn Ramsey
                              Participant

                                Thanks everyone! I’m always happy to learn that the easy and cheap way is probably for the best.

                                Does anybody have any insights as to how long an engine can typically last before needing replaced or rebuilt? Oil pressure hasn’t been a noticeable problem. (No oil pressure light at idle or low speed) And I typically only burn or lose 1 quart over the course of 6,000 miles.

                                I only ask because of Eric’s experience with older Integras. Is 300K the end of the line for these engines and that’s why he sees them or you see 300K Integra’s come in and keep on going?

                                in reply to: 2002 Accord SE Abrubt Unexpected Downshift #603817
                                John RamseyJohn Ramsey
                                Participant

                                  A year’s worth of perspective on this topic and what I’ve found is that the problem is brought on by cold weather and cruise control. When it gets below freezing, we don’t use cruise and this is not a problem. When it’s warm, this issue never presents itself.

                                  Thanks for all of the replies!

                                Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 18 total)
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