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[quote=”Jasonw1178″ post=173290]
As far as people who don’t even know how to check their oil. I think they should be able to do that but then again, they are smart enough to stay out from under the hood. I don’t know why it’s apart of the man-code to know how to work on cars. This isn’t the 1950’s.[/quote]I sure wish they all would. The road would be a safer place. I’m out in the sticks and see a lot of cars with major body parts literally held on by duct tape. If they can’t afford a $100 fender you can bet they can’t afford a $120 brake job.
But then again if everyone could work on their own cars CORRECTLY it would make mechanics obsolete. I still do a lot of “I’ll fix what you fixed” work.
1000% agree with Eric. I cheaped out on my last set. Didn’t realize how bad they really were until I replaced them with some good rubber. Feel tons more confident now, especially in the rain.
They used to be at vapauto.com. Now that website name is for sale. Appears he gave up the business.
I found one on ebay, but he knows they can’t be found easy now and his asking price shows it.
Shift lever repair kit. One I never searched for. I’ll look around for that later today. Thanks.
Edit – it’s later today already. Love it when there’s free time when I first get to work. LOL
I started with your search term “shift lever repair kit”. Came up with nada. So just put in “04 Mustang automatic shift lever”, then added “bezel” to it, and found a used one for 65 bucks. It’s the entire shifter assembly that bolts to the tunnel. Being used it’s just as old as mine and just as likely to fail the same way mine did. So…
Dremel tool and sheet plastic time! The edges are hidden so I don’t have to be too pretty. Good project for the next stormy Saturday afternoon.
I drive an 04 V6. Bought a VAP intake spacer. It is NOT a throttle body spacer (paperweight), it goes between the upper and lower intake manifold halves. It lengthens the runners, longer runners are good for low end torque. It’s the reason the Windstar intake setup works so well on our cars. Since our little motors are so handicapped RPM-wise on the top end the slight loss of HP up there can’t be found (at least I’ve never spun it high enough to feel any difference).
My brother drives an 02 V6, got in mine and asked how I got it to feel so much quicker off the line. It was the spacer. It’s said it’s “like a small gear change”. Very noticeable improvement.
It was about 80 bucks with the replacement (longer) bolts needed. Came with two gaskets, ready to install. Took me about two hours but that’s only because I painted my upper intake and had to wait for it to dry. It”s really easy.
I can’t find the website I bought it from now. But if you can, it’s well worth it.
Putting it in neutral disconnects the engine from the wheels (hopefully anyway!) so if nothing changes it hints it’s in the chassis (or rear of the drivetrain) somewhere that’s dragging.
I lived in a city that had a LOT of money to throw around…beachfront two bedroom townhouses were over a quarter million dollars. Plenty of Porsche, Lambo, Ferrari cruising around. All you’d see is Pirelli, Michelin, Dunlop etc.
Now I live out in the sticks where mid 80s pickup trucks are the norm. Here you see a lot of Cooper, Primewell, Hankook, etc.
Guess it depends on what kind of disposable income you have, and what you intend the tires to do. Pull a full G in a corner, or just get you home safe.
[quote=”CrazedAssassin” post=173244][quote=”Johnny Stang” post=173179]Agree. Telling the customer there will be additional charges for things like that would avoid some of the sticker shock when they get the final bill. We would always get the “What is this shop supplies charge? Isn’t that stuff part of doing the work anyway?”
I had wheel bearings pressed out of knuckles at a tire shop a couple months ago. Would really love to have a 20 ton press in my garage at home but don’t have room for one. They charged me for “shop supplies”. All I could figure was they had to use rags to clean the press after the work, maybe a shot of PB to get things sliding easier. It was only five bucks so I just grinned and paid it. They’re good people and I don’t mind helping them stay in business.[/quote]
Most shops I’ve had business with just do a general 20 dollar charge to press something in.
Wheel studs, flywheel bearing, etc.[/quote]It was Sunday afternoon. Not a single little garage open in town (I don’t live in a big town much less a city). Ended up at a major tire shop. I’d have waited for Monday and had it done for a lot less but my customer needed the car back to drive to work Monday.
Just looked up 2002 Accord. It doesn’t have a fitting on the fuel rail, sorry to send you on a wild chase. You’ll need what’s called a “banjo bolt”.
See if this link works (I’m very new here and not sure how to post links to elsewhere).
http://www.eb ay.com/itm/HONDA-FUEL-PRESSURE-GAUGE-ADAPTER-BANJO-BOLT-1-8-NPT-/360152710099
Hmm…take the space out between the b and the a. Only way I could get it to post.
Does it appear the stick metal itself is discolored or there is a varnish on it that makes it look discolored? Some manufacturers used cheap mild spring steel for dipsticks, they discolor quickly. Others used stainless steel that will (under any normal condition) never discolor. If it’s just a varnish a spritz of carb cleaner would take it off. That could be anything from normal to saying he let the oil turn to varnish before he changed it.
Either way…a used car with no oil in it…don’t walk, run. And be glad the dealer didn’t just dump oil in it and never say anything.
[quote=”Pita14131″ post=173188]What spring on the intake? This enginge is fuel injected and has a throttle body. The prior bank 2 too lean condition should have been corrected by the installation of the new isobolts on the upper intake. However, I learned recently that a faulty MAF sensor can also cause a P0174 code. A clogged fuel filter might cause the condition in which the vehicle shuts down except I would think that aif this were the case, it wouldn’t fire back up again after a minute.[/quote]
A clogged fuel filter can for sure do that. Had an 84 Toyota with a 22R in the shop. It fired up fine, got him to the highway fine, then stalled when he got up to highway speeds. He’d pull over, engine would start right back up, and stall again as soon as he got up to speed. It was fine around town too. It was the fuel filter. Passed enough gas for low RPMs but not enough for sustained high RPMs.
Sad part…he had taken it to a different garage before us. They told him it was his timing belt. The 22R uses a chain. They were going to replace the fuel filter and also charge him for changing a timing belt the engine doesn’t even have.
Check the fuel pressure at the rail. If possible, while driving. Never run a hosed fuel pressure gauge into the interior. I took my hood off, propped the gauge up and watched it through the windshield while driving around the block. Found out the fuel pump had plenty enough oomph to idle the truck, but under acceleration it couldn’t keep up.
The same signal that tells your AC clutch on the compressor to engage tells the ECU to up the idle speed to compensate for the additional load. If you do pull the belt off the compressor and turn the dash AC switch on the dash on your idle speed should increase some over baseline. If it doesn’t I would look at a clogged or dead IAC valve, or bad wiring to it.
Could you use just a simple ammeter like the gauge in the dashboard type, the kind you’d buy at Autozone, between the alternator output lead and the battery? They’re not super accurate but good enough to see a big drain. See if the drain is happening on that side of the circuit? With most vehicles the positive side of the battery only runs to the alternator (thin cable) and the starter (heavy cable) so any leech in the electrical system should be seen on that lead. Watch it for something significant whenever you get bored and go look?