[John]

I have one and I have tried it. The most intense rattle vibration is felt/heard at the pulley side of the alternator. Also, the alternator noise was around 3x other accessories. I removed the belt and ran for a few seconds to confirm it’s an accessory. I’m guessing water pump or alternator.

I ordered a new alternator.

[John]

It’s a possibility, but I highly doubt it because I replaced the pully with a new one and no change. #2 note

[John]

Sound is coming opposite side of engine from timing chain/tensioner. No sound when belt is off even if I rev it. Both of these lead me to believe that the timing chain components are not at fault. I have and have used the mechanic stereoscope. Can not find it.

Also, it is the 12v vr6 that has timing tensioner/chain problems. In the 24v vr6 they fixed their tensioner and a lot less problems have been seen since.

Any other suggestions/help?

[John]

I took a hammer to the bottom of the car and all suspension components, rattled the tires, and tried to find anything moving. Nothing. This is driving me crazy. Any ideas?

[John]

I’ve tried to rattle the sway bar ends and they won’t move. The sound does not sound like what I’ve seen of sway bar ends/bushings. It sounds like steel washers knocking together. A higher pitched rattle rather than a clunk.

[John]

Thanks for that find. It really helped.

[John]

That’s actually where it’s coming from because the pitch enemy changes when I move it a little. I replaced it a few months ago just for troubleshooting oil loss, so it is fairly new. Still think I should test/replace it?

[John]

[quote=”relative4″ post=183468]If there are bubbles in the reservoir, you’re sucking in air. Checking the suction hose and seals does not require removing the pump.

What sympyoms prompted you to rebuild the pump? If these symptoms are new since the rebuild, then logically something went wrong with the rebuild.[/quote]

Can the bubbles not also be caused by air in the system coming out?

I rebuilt the pump because of a leak on the main seal part (where the case comes together). The power steering was working 100% with no problems before. On the rebuild, I actually did not take the pressure sensor part out because it was in so tight and I did not have problems with it before, so I doubt that that would be the problem.

[John]

[quote=”Hanneman” post=183430]+1 to air infiltration. I would check the hose connections and o-ring. Also, there was a recall for the inlet hose, and IIRC, it would crack and leak fluid into the engine bay.

Another suspect is the pressure control (aka flow control) valve in the pump. If it sticks intermittently, then it would explain the lack of power assist. The valve can be tested by connecting the valve to compressed air with a section of tubing and submerging the outlet into a cup of water (Helm, pg 17-17). A faulty valve will leak air when the pressure is below 14.2 psi and generate bubbles while the valve is submerged in water. Unfortunately, the valve cannot be purchased separately, and a new or re-manufactured pump is needed.[/quote]

Is there any way to rule out the hoses/orings/valve without taking the pump off and apart again? The symptoms now are that the car will drive perfect about a mile from starting then will lose power steering for around 30 seconds or hit a short rough patch in steering then return to normal again then mess up again in a mile (repeat process again). Does this give any hints as to the cause? There are bubbles in the reservoir after parking and checking.

[John]

[quote=”Hanneman” post=183430]+1 to air infiltration. I would check the hose connections and o-ring. Also, there was a recall for the inlet hose, and IIRC, it would crack and leak fluid into the engine bay.

Another suspect is the pressure control (aka flow control) valve in the pump. If it sticks intermittently, then it would explain the lack of power assist. The valve can be tested by connecting the valve to compressed air with a section of tubing and submerging the outlet into a cup of water (Helm, pg 17-17). A faulty valve will leak air when the pressure is below 14.2 psi and generate bubbles while the valve is submerged in water. Unfortunately, the valve cannot be purchased separately, and a new or re-manufactured pump is needed.[/quote]

[John]

any specific process to remove the air from the fluid? I thought the hondas of this make were self bleeding?

[John]

Thank you for that video. I had no idea to inspect belts like that now.

Why do you say a rebuild would fail if the pump is doing fine and only needs seals to stop leaking?

[John]

Since the pullies seemed to be in line and the belt looked to be in good condition, I put some dielectric grease on the belt. Squeak gone.

Most people that know about it swear by it and some people hate it, but it works.

[John]

Update: Before buying all of the rebuild parts, I tried the water test on the belt (spray water on ribbed side of belt) and the noise got quiet. This means that the pump is not at fault for the noise, correct? All of the pullies seem to be in alignment and don’t wobble. Should I just try to clean/replace the belt? I also put a mechanics stethoscope on the pump and did not hear any sound resembling the noise. Any ideas?

[John]

So you don’t think a rebuild is worth a shot for $30 w/ bearing? Does it sound like a bearing? I don’t know what type of sound that is. I have refilled the fluid to top line and no change in sound.

[Author]

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