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Although everyone has pretty much covered everything I would suggest, here are my two cents.
I do believe synthetic is a superior oil when used from day one.
But, In your situation, I would not change a thing. I would continue using the same weight and type of oil that has been working for you so far.
I would also stay away from ‘extended life oil/high mile oil’. I do not believe the claimed benefits outweigh the risk of unwanted leaks.Although everyone has pretty much covered everything I would suggest, here are my two cents.
I do believe synthetic is a superior oil when used from day one.
But, In your situation, I would not change a thing. I would continue using the same weight and type of oil that has been working for you so far.
I would also stay away from ‘extended life oil/high mile oil’. I do not believe the claimed benefits outweigh the risk of unwanted leaks.All of the above are possible, you are getting way to much pressure building up in the gas tank and/or the lines which is kicking in the safety feature of the gas pump.
I would suggest looking into recalls for this year and see if the tank or various other parts need replacing.
On my 05 Mustang the exact problem happens every time, In my situation the only fix is replacing the old tank with the new tank offered.
BE CAREFUL***** – If you force the pump to continue pumping after it has shut off, gas will be pressurized and come spewing out like a rocket! (don’t ask me how I know….)
Good luck!
All of the above are possible, you are getting way to much pressure building up in the gas tank and/or the lines which is kicking in the safety feature of the gas pump.
I would suggest looking into recalls for this year and see if the tank or various other parts need replacing.
On my 05 Mustang the exact problem happens every time, In my situation the only fix is replacing the old tank with the new tank offered.
BE CAREFUL***** – If you force the pump to continue pumping after it has shut off, gas will be pressurized and come spewing out like a rocket! (don’t ask me how I know….)
Good luck!
I have a 2004 F150 that I recently had in the shop because the rear end tends to shake or bounce when I come to a complete stop.It will sit and shake for a few seconds then stop but it does it almost every time I stop.
So it is when you come to a stop and a complete stop? Or now
just the complete stop?If it shakes when at a complete stop this is great. Throw that sucker into
park, set the E brake. crawl under the rear and observe. (Probably would want
to do this with a cold engine/ cold exhaust)If something is indeed going wrong in the rear and bouncing around, you really don’t have a whole lot of options as to what it can be back there.
Because trucks do not have a ton of stuff in the rear that can really bounce as you describe, I would direct my attention more toward the front. In my experience motor mounts typically are what I go for
first.As I say, If the car is bouncing around so much that you can tell it is bouncing and identify the general location, you should easily be able to locate the issue.
Good Luck!
I have a 2004 F150 that I recently had in the shop because the rear end tends to shake or bounce when I come to a complete stop.It will sit and shake for a few seconds then stop but it does it almost every time I stop.
So it is when you come to a stop and a complete stop? Or now
just the complete stop?If it shakes when at a complete stop this is great. Throw that sucker into
park, set the E brake. crawl under the rear and observe. (Probably would want
to do this with a cold engine/ cold exhaust)If something is indeed going wrong in the rear and bouncing around, you really don’t have a whole lot of options as to what it can be back there.
Because trucks do not have a ton of stuff in the rear that can really bounce as you describe, I would direct my attention more toward the front. In my experience motor mounts typically are what I go for
first.As I say, If the car is bouncing around so much that you can tell it is bouncing and identify the general location, you should easily be able to locate the issue.
Good Luck!
I have used both engine oil and WD-40. I like using WD-40 a little better though. Both need to be used with plastic. And I would always hone and clean the mating surface of everything right before you do anything.
I have used both engine oil and WD-40. I like using WD-40 a little better though. Both need to be used with plastic. And I would always hone and clean the mating surface of everything right before you do anything.
I would use a ton of engine degrease on a warm engine ( not at OEM temp though)
then close the hood, let it heat up and smoke. It should burn off.If that does not do the trick, If you have a pressure hose with heating capability
that would be my next try, obviously being very mindful of psi and the direction you are pointing it. Allow the engine to cool off before doing this, you do not want to douse a hot engine with cold cold water.If these two attempts fails, I would agree with Eric and start looking for additional leaks.
I would use a ton of engine degrease on a warm engine ( not at OEM temp though)
then close the hood, let it heat up and smoke. It should burn off.If that does not do the trick, If you have a pressure hose with heating capability
that would be my next try, obviously being very mindful of psi and the direction you are pointing it. Allow the engine to cool off before doing this, you do not want to douse a hot engine with cold cold water.If these two attempts fails, I would agree with Eric and start looking for additional leaks.
Nothing worse then lifting the car, draining the dirty oil, and then having that filter hold on for dear life.
Very first thing I do when I realize I cannot get it off by hand is,
clean the filter with brake cleaner. Sounds kinda funny huh?. But you want evvverything off of that filter that could possibly make the tool slip and cause damage to the surface of the filter. Most of the oil filter tools rely on the surface to get a tight grip one way or another. once you start bending it you lose gripping ability.I usually use these tools in order, They start with the lowest risk of damaging the surface in my opinion.
– Oil Filter Wrench ( Swivel type, this usually works 90% of the time for me.make sure you buy the right size wrench for the filter)
– oil filter wrench (cap style, again make sure you buy the right size for the filter you are working on, and buy the METAL one, many auto part stores sell plastic! which is a joke. This style of tool is a 50/50 for me depending on what brand of filter)
– Pipe Wrench (Only once has this failed me in a few years, You want to use a wrench that will open wide but have a low profile handle to allow for maneuvering. But not so small you cannot get any power behind it. )
these last two are the point of no return got no other choice about to pay someone to remove the filter tools.
– Screwdriver ( You jam a big old screwdriver in the filter to the other side and start twisting.)
– ChannelLocks ( You grab a big old set of locks and squeeze that sucker for a tight grip and twist.)
Good Luck, you will get it!
Nothing worse then lifting the car, draining the dirty oil, and then having that filter hold on for dear life.
Very first thing I do when I realize I cannot get it off by hand is,
clean the filter with brake cleaner. Sounds kinda funny huh?. But you want evvverything off of that filter that could possibly make the tool slip and cause damage to the surface of the filter. Most of the oil filter tools rely on the surface to get a tight grip one way or another. once you start bending it you lose gripping ability.I usually use these tools in order, They start with the lowest risk of damaging the surface in my opinion.
– Oil Filter Wrench ( Swivel type, this usually works 90% of the time for me.make sure you buy the right size wrench for the filter)
– oil filter wrench (cap style, again make sure you buy the right size for the filter you are working on, and buy the METAL one, many auto part stores sell plastic! which is a joke. This style of tool is a 50/50 for me depending on what brand of filter)
– Pipe Wrench (Only once has this failed me in a few years, You want to use a wrench that will open wide but have a low profile handle to allow for maneuvering. But not so small you cannot get any power behind it. )
these last two are the point of no return got no other choice about to pay someone to remove the filter tools.
– Screwdriver ( You jam a big old screwdriver in the filter to the other side and start twisting.)
– ChannelLocks ( You grab a big old set of locks and squeeze that sucker for a tight grip and twist.)
Good Luck, you will get it!
Depending on the vehicle, for just a few dollars more (literally) you can actually buy a new control arm, w/ bushings and w/balljoint. I would double check to make sure this is not the case for the vehicle you are working on. Save some money down the road and no rivets involved 🙂
Depending on the vehicle, for just a few dollars more (literally) you can actually buy a new control arm, w/ bushings and w/balljoint. I would double check to make sure this is not the case for the vehicle you are working on. Save some money down the road and no rivets involved 🙂
I will drive miles out of my way before I step foot in a NAPA, O’reilly, and god forbid a pep boys. None of these stores are cost efficient. I would spend a fortune on parts. then spend another fortune on wasting my time fixing the customers car again because the part failed.
I will always go to
Autozone, they have never let me down. Excellent service at everyone I have gone to and Duralast is a exceptionally good company. I have had dinner with Mr.Rhodes a few times and enjoy hearing about the company every time.