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First thing you need to do is to properly recover all the refrigerant from the system. At this time I would personally replace all O rings and seals in the system and install a new Receiver/Drier or Accumulator depending on what you have. Then you need to vacuum the air out of the system as close to -30 hg as you can get (probably take about an hour) then see if it will stay there after you turn off the vacuum pump and remove it from the service hose. If it holds the vacuum for 30 – 60 minutes without any loss of vacuum you can weigh the proper refrigerant charge (using a scale) for the vehicle and allow the vacuum you have created to bring the refrigerant into the system via the service hose (yellow) and through the low side of the system (The gauge valve for the high side (red) should be turned off until the full charge has been added). You probably will not be able to get the full amount of the weight of the refrigerant that the system requires just with the vacuum alone so after you get all that you can of the weighed charge in with the vacuum start the vehicle and turn on the A/C to high. The compressor clutch should engage and should be able to draw the rest of the weighed refrigerant into the system. Stop the adding of refrigerant when the scale indicates that amount of the weighed refrigerant is in the system. If all the seals and O rings are good and none of the other system parts are leaking or plugged up, You should have cold air coming out the vents.
Lots more A/C info in the “How To” Forum here on pages 1 & 2
http://www.amazon.com/00-06-Mazda-Window-Regulator-Driver/dp/B006ICUNF6
Looks like there’s a cable involved I would make sure it’s well lubricated and I would check the other side and give it some lubrication to keep it going a while longer before it might need replacement too.
Looks like there’s a cable involved I would make sure it’s well lubricated and I would check the other side and give it some lubrication to keep it going a while longer before it might need replacement too.
You may need a new regulator for this window.
According to Chiltons.com
“Door Panel
Disconnect the negative battery cable if equipped with power window.
Remove the inner garnish.
Remove the regulator handle if equipped.
Remove the fasteners.
Remove the cover.
Remove the screws A, B. the lens or cap, screw C, and then disengage clips D from the body using a fastener remover. Finally, pull the front door trim upward, then disengage hooks E from the body.
Extract the inner handle from the front door trim.
Disconnect the door lock switch connector and the power window main switch connector if equipped. (driver’s side)
Disconnect the power window sub switch connector if equipped. (passenger’s side)
Remove the courtesy light if equipped.
Remove the front door trim.
Install in the reverse order of removal.Front Door
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the front door glass.
Disconnect the front power window regulator connector.
Remove the nuts, then remove the front power window regulator.
To install, reverse removal procedure. Torque nuts to 86 inch lbs. (8 Nm).”You may need a new regulator for this window.
According to Chiltons.com
“Door Panel
Disconnect the negative battery cable if equipped with power window.
Remove the inner garnish.
Remove the regulator handle if equipped.
Remove the fasteners.
Remove the cover.
Remove the screws A, B. the lens or cap, screw C, and then disengage clips D from the body using a fastener remover. Finally, pull the front door trim upward, then disengage hooks E from the body.
Extract the inner handle from the front door trim.
Disconnect the door lock switch connector and the power window main switch connector if equipped. (driver’s side)
Disconnect the power window sub switch connector if equipped. (passenger’s side)
Remove the courtesy light if equipped.
Remove the front door trim.
Install in the reverse order of removal.Front Door
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the front door glass.
Disconnect the front power window regulator connector.
Remove the nuts, then remove the front power window regulator.
To install, reverse removal procedure. Torque nuts to 86 inch lbs. (8 Nm).”Good move replacing the timing belt when you replaced the water pump. They both require replacement at the same time (about every 100,000 miles) so changing them both saves a lot of time vs having to go through roughly the same job twice and as you now know it’s not a “Quick and Easy” job. As far as the overheating goes, since you said that you have bled the cooling system to remove all the air pockets, have you checked the thermostat and pressure tested the cap? I’m assuming that the coolant is coming out where the cap should be?
Good move replacing the timing belt when you replaced the water pump. They both require replacement at the same time (about every 100,000 miles) so changing them both saves a lot of time vs having to go through roughly the same job twice and as you now know it’s not a “Quick and Easy” job. As far as the overheating goes, since you said that you have bled the cooling system to remove all the air pockets, have you checked the thermostat and pressure tested the cap? I’m assuming that the coolant is coming out where the cap should be?
You need to check the fuel pressure and compare it to specs. Sounds like the pressure is not being maintained and may be low.
John
You need to check the fuel pressure and compare it to specs. Sounds like the pressure is not being maintained and may be low.
John
