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[quote=”LeoTheLion89″ post=61175]my CEL is always on anyway[/quote]
No need to extinguish it it’ll burn out the bulb eventually then you can put in an LED bulb to replace it.
[quote=”LeoTheLion89″ post=61175]my CEL is always on anyway[/quote]
No need to extinguish it it’ll burn out the bulb eventually then you can put in an LED bulb to replace it.
[quote=”dohc-kindaguy” post=61203]Now you just need a real transmission (5 speed manual), a cherry bomb muffler, stage 1 cam(s) and some 20 shot NOS and that thing will SCREAM ;)[/quote]
Ya it’ll SCREAM “FIX ME”
[quote=”dohc-kindaguy” post=61203]Now you just need a real transmission (5 speed manual), a cherry bomb muffler, stage 1 cam(s) and some 20 shot NOS and that thing will SCREAM ;)[/quote]
Ya it’ll SCREAM “FIX ME”
What did the axle cost? Rebuilt?
A/C stuff is posted in the Repair Central “How To” forum here at ETCGWhat did the axle cost? Rebuilt?
A/C stuff is posted in the Repair Central “How To” forum here at ETCGFirst it would help if you had a factory service manual to find out what the function of the battery light is on your vehicle. When my battery light comes on it is because my battery temperature sensor thermistor has detected a problem with the battery temperature. It then puts the charging of the battery into a limp mode whereby the output charging voltage from the alternator to the battery is reduced to protect the battery as the sensor has detected that the battery temperature is not correct. Until the problem has been resolved the light will stay on. My battery light is normally out unless there is a problem in which case it will illuminate to show me there is a problem I need to fix.
First it would help if you had a factory service manual to find out what the function of the battery light is on your vehicle. When my battery light comes on it is because my battery temperature sensor thermistor has detected a problem with the battery temperature. It then puts the charging of the battery into a limp mode whereby the output charging voltage from the alternator to the battery is reduced to protect the battery as the sensor has detected that the battery temperature is not correct. Until the problem has been resolved the light will stay on. My battery light is normally out unless there is a problem in which case it will illuminate to show me there is a problem I need to fix.
Probably would a good idea if you could READ the installation instructions that come in the package.
Probably would a good idea if you could READ the installation instructions that come in the package.
[quote=”fastdad1″ post=61055]Hello everyone this is a problem that I have when the transmission warms up begins to bang when putting it in gear. I did check the throttle position sensor and everything looks good. But when I scan it the code PO113 keep coming up.can somebody please explain this to me thank you . :([/quote]
http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/gm/3.8L/how-to-test-trouble-code-P0113-page-1
[quote=”fastdad1″ post=61055]Hello everyone this is a problem that I have when the transmission warms up begins to bang when putting it in gear. I did check the throttle position sensor and everything looks good. But when I scan it the code PO113 keep coming up.can somebody please explain this to me thank you . :([/quote]
http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/gm/3.8L/how-to-test-trouble-code-P0113-page-1
First thing you need to do is to properly recover all the refrigerant from the system. At this time I would personally replace all O rings and seals in the system and install a new Receiver/Drier or Accumulator depending on what you have. Then you need to vacuum the air out of the system as close to -30 hg as you can get (probably take about an hour) then see if it will stay there after you turn off the vacuum pump and remove it from the service hose. If it holds the vacuum for 30 – 60 minutes without any loss of vacuum you can weigh the proper refrigerant charge (using a scale) for the vehicle and allow the vacuum you have created to bring the refrigerant into the system via the service hose (yellow) and through the low side of the system (The gauge valve for the high side (red) should be turned off until the full charge has been added). You probably will not be able to get the full amount of the weight of the refrigerant that the system requires just with the vacuum alone so after you get all that you can of the weighed charge in with the vacuum start the vehicle and turn on the A/C to high. The compressor clutch should engage and should be able to draw the rest of the weighed refrigerant into the system. Stop the adding of refrigerant when the scale indicates that amount of the weighed refrigerant is in the system. If all the seals and O rings are good and none of the other system parts are leaking or plugged up, You should have cold air coming out the vents.
Lots more A/C info in the “How To” Forum here on pages 1 & 2