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As long as you can afford it that’s great. It’s fairly easy to just replace the ball joint alone. Hardest part is getting the nut off if it’s rusted and wants to turn the joint in the socket. I just replace the joint in my vehicles.
As long as you can afford it that’s great. It’s fairly easy to just replace the ball joint alone. Hardest part is getting the nut off if it’s rusted and wants to turn the joint in the socket. I just replace the joint in my vehicles.
It sounds like he was not EPA Certified to work on automotive A/C systems. Whenever you have an A/C repair ask to see the certification for the tech working on it. If he doesn’t have one find another shop. To learn more about A/C check the Repair central “How To” Forum here on ETCG
It sounds like he was not EPA Certified to work on automotive A/C systems. Whenever you have an A/C repair ask to see the certification for the tech working on it. If he doesn’t have one find another shop. To learn more about A/C check the Repair central “How To” Forum here on ETCG
If you are smelling gas then a small leak would let the pressure drop too. Have you checked for rusted gas lines?
If you are smelling gas then a small leak would let the pressure drop too. Have you checked for rusted gas lines?
I looked for specs on what your specs for the pressure should be and can’t find any, but if it doesn’t hold the pressure when the key is shut off I do think if the pump is what controls the system and prevents pressure from being lost then you need a new one. You may be able to find just the motor like I did for my Dodge Neon, on eBay for $20 with a lifetime guarantee (of course I don’t own the vehicle any more so there is no guarantee any more for me). The whole module would have run anywhere from $100 – $225
I looked for specs on what your specs for the pressure should be and can’t find any, but if it doesn’t hold the pressure when the key is shut off I do think if the pump is what controls the system and prevents pressure from being lost then you need a new one. You may be able to find just the motor like I did for my Dodge Neon, on eBay for $20 with a lifetime guarantee (of course I don’t own the vehicle any more so there is no guarantee any more for me). The whole module would have run anywhere from $100 – $225
Sounds like the fuel pump is allowing the pressure it creates to be lost by not having a working back flow prevention in the system. Not sure if all pumps have a preventer built in to them but you probably will need a new pump at a minimum if you can find one or a whole new fuel pump module.
When the key is turned on the fuel pump should pressurize the line to the pressure needed by the vehicle and that pressure should hold. It should not go down after the pump shut off.
Sounds like the fuel pump is allowing the pressure it creates to be lost by not having a working back flow prevention in the system. Not sure if all pumps have a preventer built in to them but you probably will need a new pump at a minimum if you can find one or a whole new fuel pump module.
When the key is turned on the fuel pump should pressurize the line to the pressure needed by the vehicle and that pressure should hold. It should not go down after the pump shut off.
Why do you want your battery light to come on? They only come on if there is a problem or when you first start the vehicle when all the indicator lights normally come on and then go out after the vehicle is started. Unless that 12 V finds a path to a ground the bulb will not light up.
Why do you want your battery light to come on? They only come on if there is a problem or when you first start the vehicle when all the indicator lights normally come on and then go out after the vehicle is started. Unless that 12 V finds a path to a ground the bulb will not light up.
FYI it’s a USER MANUAL NOT a Service manual
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