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Update – The oil separator came to the dealer on Monday. They didn’t call, so my wife had to call. They couldn’t get it installed until Wednesday so she took it in first thing Wednesday and got it back that afternoon. Later that same afternoon we drove it about 5 miles to the mall. When we finished there and went to start the car the engine lamp stayed illuminated. Less than 25 miles were put on the vehicle and still the problem is there. She called the dealer first thing this morning and they told her not to bring it in yet. They wanted to talk to the engineers to see what to change next. Parts changers, not techs, no troubleshooting!!!!! So the vehicle is just sitting here now waiting to see what they want to change next. We’re supposed to be going to see my brother in northern MI on Saturday. I guess we’ll be driving it with the light on still, cause my Chevy C3500 dually with a 454 only gets 5 mpg and we’re not doing a 500+ mile trip in it!
Will keep this updated as it progresses.There’s not a whole lot of information on this vehicle, but I did manage to find some wiring diagrams at http://www.bbbind.com/tech_database.html
I downloaded all of them for the 2015 Dodge Dart Aero 1.4L Turbo
In the Wiring diagram section under Engine – Fuel Control System – Intake Air System, last rectangle on the top right (Sensor – Crankcase Pressure) of that section is what I think they replaced. The three wires match in color to the one in this schematic with a 5V reference, sensor signal and ground. I don’t have much faith in these techs at this dealership. Before I would replace that sensor I would have checked those 3 wires and checked the waveform of the sensor signal wire against a known good one. They replaced it and it didn’t fix the problem. They took out the K&N air filter that had been in it for 8,000 + miles and put a new Mopar filter in it and gave it back to her to drive yesterday. She drove it into work and when she started it up to come home, engine lamp illuminated again. As I type this she is on her way into the dealer again with her car. These newer vehicles are getting so complicated it’s hard to fix ’em anymore. I told her when she bought it she’d be getting to know the dealer and now I think they’ll be glad to get it fixed and not have to see her again (I hope). I don’t really want to work on it unless I really have to.A vacuum pump is designed to remove air from an AC system. There is no pressure in the system when it is used and it uses a special oil in it. You can’t use it on a pressurized AC system to remove refrigerant with pressure. It’s not designed to handle the pressure. I think it would also be illegal. AC equipment must be specifically certified and approved to be used for refrigerant removal.
Get yourself a good breaker bar and a heavy duty piece of pipe to fit over it and extend it to give you more leverage. That should allow you to get most things loose. Personally I have a Dewalt 20V Max that I carry with me in my 96 Chevy Silverado Dually and it will take the lug nuts off the wheels with no problem. It’s also been able to do anything I’ve tried to do with it so far.
Have you checked the fuel pressure? Does the pressure hold or drop? Do you smell raw fuel at any time?
If the rattling noise is not heard when the compressor is off it could be something in the compressor clutch or the magnet is not pulling in enough to hold it tight to the compressor
Check Ebay under refrigerant recovery. Might be able to find one for a few hundred dollars. Just do your research before you buy not all are worth buying.
Update
I realize that the bleeding off of the pressure is definitely a problem here. Replacing the pressure regulator or replacing leaking injectors (or their O Rings)or both may be necessary also. Because the pump spec calls for 60 – 66 psi and this is much lower, at 48, I think it’s time to think about replacing it also though, even though it starts fine and seems to run all right. Can’t tell how the gas mileage is because the truck is new to me and I have yet to run it through a full tank of gas and I am aware that I can expect to get about 8 miles/gallon with it, not much more than that.
I finally got a chance to do some checking on this truck.
Took the O Scope out yesterday and although I could not get a trigger set right to stop the waveform and hold it steady so it wouldn’t keep tracing across the screen, I did find that at the VCM pins I got a negative square wave —-_— pulse on each of the output pins for the control of the injectors. They seemed to all be the same about 14V + going down to 0V then back up to 14V + only getting the negative pulse when the injector was fired, so most of the time voltage was at 14V +Today I checked under the truck and to my surprise Adam,there are no catalytic converters in the exhaust system. However there are 2 – O2 sensors in the pipes connected to the exhaust manifolds about 4 inches from the connections and 2 more farther on down the exhaust pipes about where the cats should be. I could only get what would be considered the downstream one on driver’s side (Bank 1 Sensor 2 I believe) removed. The other 3 would not budge. When removed the threads were really bad and there was no compression ring washer attached to it. It was covered with black soot at the sensor tip so I cleaned it and wire brushed the threads and put never seize on what was left of the threads and re installed it in the hole with s bit of difficulty but eventually got it in.
I had reset the codes just after I posted this and the P0134 and P0175 have returned.
Put fuel pressure gauge on the rail this AM. Powered up fuel pump with the scanner. When pump was turned off pressure immediately dropped from 55 psi substantially. Powered it up again and clamped the fuel feed line from after the fuel filter. No change, pressure dropped again. Fired up again and clamped the return line which is next to the feed line. Pressure dropped again. Fired pump up again and clamped both feed and return lines. Pressure dropped. Conclusion is that there is nothing between where I clamped the lines off and the fuel pump/gas tank fuel return that is causing the fuel pressure bleed. Guess my next move is to remove the upper intake manifold to get to the fuel injectors and the fuel pressure regulator.
I will try to keep this updated as things progress.Thanks for all the suggestions
Thanks for the replys and the useful advice
Just tested the fuel pressure at the rail Schrader valve. Engine cold Key On Engine Off = 48 psi Cold start at idle = 48 psi , 2000 rpm = 48 psi , 3000 rpm = 48 psi sitting parked. The pressure bleeds off and within about a minute it was down below 30 psi and still falling. Since FSM indicates it should be 60 – 66. I guess that I should start looking for a new fuel pump. I’m not too familiar with GM but can you rebuild the GM fuel pump module with a new pump motor and some new fuel pump strainers/filters. I’ve rebuilt Chrysler fuel pump modules and never had a problem with that. Where would be the best place to purchase a new pump motor w/strainers/filters? As I have an almost full 34 gallon tank, I think the best way to get to the tank to fix this would be to lift the bed up on the driver’s side to get to the tank. How difficult would this be? and would this be the preferred method?