[Bret]

please keep in mind, I’m no body tech lol.
but i have had to do this a few times for myself and my friends, we lived up north, and roads get slick there.

before i removed OG door, you can check your clearance around it, I like using the bottom sill, as that’s where gravity will pull it to.
you can also mark the hinge with marker to get close if your hinges are slotted like some of mine were (although i think that was done by a previous owner honestly)

the way i did it, i would leave the hinge like your planning to do, remove the old door, and bolt the new one on.
snug the bolts enough to hold the door in place so you can GENTLY open/close it without it moving(try not to let the door latch shut until you think you have everything good and tight, pulling up on the handle to open the latch has moved mine before) but keep in mind it will need to be adjusted.

the Popsicle sticks just seemed to work for my doors in the past, as the gap is close enough to original that closed, you never knew it was a different door. I would put them in the bottom sill for the first test close, when bolts are just snugged, and use a flat screwdriver with a pad on it to allow the Popsicle sticks to fit under the door. then adjust from there. this was my starting point

as for making adjusting easier…. somebody might have a good answer for that, but i really don’t. generally it would take me about an hour to get the door completely done and lined up properly. i would open and close that door like 50 times making minor pulls up and down to get it as close as i could, and left it at that.

hope this helps

[Bret]

even if you only remove the door, and not the hinges, you’ll still need to align the door to the jam.
last time i did this, i used Popsicle sticks after tightening the bolts snug, then made fine adjustments from there.

but to simply answer your question, yes, it should be a bolt on, no major issues.

[Bret]

is this happening only after the vehicle is up to operating temp? or does it start before then?
I would definitely look at vacuum leaks or the EGPD valve

I’ll leave this here for you
http://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/ZetecIdleIssue.htm

although you do note that your idle is good, its a start.

[Bret]

for the sake of the seal, I’d remove it.
besides knowing you’ll have a good seal when you reinstall, removing the manifold should definitely make removing the bolt easier.
(I’ve been using left handed drills for this recently(broken bolt removal)….holy awesome)

[Bret]

first, becasue we are here i would check this out.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CCUQFjABahUKEwic8uz9qI7JAhWFej4KHRTnAwU&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ericthecarguy.com%2F29-obd-codes%2Fobd-ii-codes%2Fhonda-obd-ii-specific-codes%2F215-p0505-idle-air-control-valve-malfunction-honda&usg=AFQjCNFRiObN6G18k1KYnfHEid386prqeQ&sig2=ar4JQ26V1dvpzctnk7zkUg&bvm=bv.107467506,d.cGc

If you like that and would perfer to clean it and hope it helps as opposed to replace it, try this https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=4&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CCUQFjADahUKEwjao6jqqI7JAhUH8z4KHUHHCPA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fhonda-tech.com%2Facura-integra-6%2F***how-clean***-your-iacv-k-idle-air-control-valve-1575913%2F&usg=AFQjCNHI72qJ_-HdSLE4pbSZMj92rA_QqQ&sig2=_H_0d4GaCJw5mj_PcL_zEA&bvm=bv.107467506,d.cGc

[Bret]

I would call purple heart, im sure they have somebody there that has dealt with this before, but you sound like your on the right track.

[Bret]

i could be wrong here, and somebody please correct me if i am, but pedal to the floor usually puts a vehicle in “flood mode” meaning that no more fuel is actually added to the cylinder. i believe this was built in for safety, something pertaining to starting a car in drive or something. ECTG mentioned it once, i think in a compression check video.

if it runs and idles fine, i would guess that one of the three elements is lacking somewhere. but you say the only thing that starts is is flooring it while cranking?

Im also guessing that there is no misfire considering that it runs well.

i would reset the ECM via pulling fuses, then start at the basics, check plugs, and wires- this will tell you that spark is getting to the cylinder properly.( as a side note, make sure the plug wires seat properly, had a mis for a while because i went with cheap wires that just dident seat)

then i would look at fuel, especially because this is the only factor that you say changes, and makes it want to start.
run a fuel pressure test with and without vacuum at the fuel pressure regulator, and reference the numbers to a manual/service specs.

hope this helps.

[Bret]

as a quick side question. are the front sensor, the one coming into the head from the rad hose, and the rear sensor, the one in the tstat body, the same sensor?
as far as i know the ect sending unit is the smaller one prong hanging out in the center of the head on the left side of it, if your standing up front.
im assuming they both must be functioning within service specs to operate the fans correctly?

[Bret]

it does feel warm to the touch when up to temp.
i’ll go as planned tonight assuming i can get some time from this rain we’ve had lately, and ill update tomorrow.

thanks again all

[Bret]

It must’ve been clogged. i know i cleaned them while doing the head but thats the only thing i can think. they all had good resistance and an audible pulse (via the long screwdriver & noid light)

as far as the fans go. if hooked directly to the battery, they both run fine,i can also jump the connectors on the tstat housing and the front fitting that’s identical to that, and one runs while ones jumped, and both run while the others jumped.

Iv’e bled the cooling system already but will be pulling the tstat again to make sure installation is correct (with the hole up top) as I’ve heard incorrect installation can cause the same problem, as the ETC is reading air as well as coolant. other than that im prone to believe they’re bad sensors.

is this the logical, correct path to follow here?

[Bret]

Finally, after much time, effort, beer, and head scratching, i went back to the basics…
pulled the injector electrical connectors to do a powerbalance to find the dead cyl.
knew spark was good, and all sensors i had checked were good. so i moved the injectors around.

…my misfire moved with it.
so 60$ and a half hour later, had it up, now its running beautifully, but the fans still aren’t kicking on. the AC I’m not too worried about because its never used. but the cooling fan doesn’t come on either, at least not at 230 degrees. i ran with my scanner plugged in to watch it work,

any ideas buy?
as usual, thanks for any and all help and your time.

[Bret]

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/grq5p2pxs4cyhpm/AADngBptC0XTfQRzSK5aaVTEa

not sure if those pic will show, hopefully the link will
there shots of confirmed timing (cam anyways)
i double checked ignition with a timing light i got today, all was good.

Retested my primary 02 sensor as bad, found a Denso in the scrap yard that luckily tested good.
replaced it, and the fuel filter, which was a PITA! for sure.

re checked timing and confirmed with a timing light for ignition timing, as well as checking valve clearance.

still had a P303 pop up

because i have a reader with freeze frame here are the numbers, the first one is when it came up to op temp, the second is after i cleared it and restarted the engine.

Fule Sys 1- CL
Calc Load- 32.9
ECT (F)- 181.4
STFT B1 (%)- 22.7
LTFT B! (%)- 0
MAP- 9.7
RPM- 683
SPD- 0
IAT (F)- 102.2
TPS(%)- 9.4

After restarting the engine

Fule Sys 1- CL
Calc Load- 32.7
ECT (F)- 181.4
STFT B1 (%)- 18.8
LTFT B! (%)- 0
MAP- 10.0
RPM- 679
SPD- 0
IAT (F)- 116.6
TPS(%)- 9.4

as usual, any help is appreciated, always dirty-
Bret lol

[Bret]

I’ll be pulling the valve cover tonight and checking timing. after i get that situated, ill double check the valve clearance.
assuming the timing is off by a tooth or so on the cam marks, do i simply
1.loosen the adjuster
2.remove the belt
3.rotate the cam shaft
4.replace belt
5.tighten the adjuster
6.rotate the pully counterclockwise ~3 teeth to add tension?

also, ill be reading into the posted link here and give an update tomorrow as to what i find.

thank you all again for your continued help, advice, experience, and more importantly you time

[Bret]

UPDATE-
ran a test light through the injectors, and all are firing, but will be physically pulling them to check resistance tonight, just to be sure about them 100%

@ cave1376- the spark plugs look good, they’re new, and haven’t even seen load yet, they are gapped correctly (NGK always does me proud)
whats the best way to leak test a gasket like that? the carb cleaner trick ECTG used for vacuum lines in his video? i was missing a line on the right side, the one that runs back to the fuel regulator, but ill be pulling codes again tonight after resetting and will up date tomorrow.

[Bret]

@ toyotakarl- i will recheck the timing tonight and referance my Hanes manual if it needs adjusting. but wouldn’t the timing being off a little throw misfires across the board? also, I live in FL, so I think its safe to say it’s a little warmer here than elsewhere lol

@cave1376- I know for fact the cap, wires and plugs are good, but will run a test light over the injectors tonight as well, before i pull it apart to check timing.
the vacuum leaks have also been driving me crazy because i cant seem to find a diagram for my routing and the one under the hood is gone.

@pitt- much appreciated

@premo3d- i know for a fact the EGR is clean, and i have new gaskets on it, but ill spray down the MAF, never hurt to clean things up a bit. i also went though and cleaned the egr ports on the intake when i did the head gasket.

all your guy’s time and help is appreciated.

[Author]

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