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The car hesitated then shut off as I was driving, I had P0335 for the crankshaft sensor. I installed the other one I had laying around from the junkyard and the car started but the idle was crazy then eventually shut off and wouldn’t start again. That sensor looked scratched at the end of it just like the one that was in my car. These were both part number 39180-23500. I then tried to install a new sensor and it wouldn’t start at all with the new and updated part number 39180-23910. I had it towed to the Hyundai dealer and they told me that they won’t even charge me to diagnose it. The service manager says I need a whole new engine wiring harness that would cost 1900 plus labor. He said that the wiring harness may be the beginning of my problems and then I asked him if they got it to start. He fumbled but then said no, which means they couldn’t diagnose anything like the crankshaft sensor or why it’s misfiring. He then said that I would need to tow it home or junk it.
The car hesitated then shut off as I was driving, I had P0335 for the crankshaft sensor. I installed the other one I had laying around from the junkyard and the car started but the idle was crazy then eventually shut off and wouldn’t start again. That sensor looked scratched at the end of it just like the one that was in my car. These were both part number 39180-23500. I then tried to install a new sensor and it wouldn’t start at all with the new and updated part number 39180-23910. I had it towed to the Hyundai dealer and they told me that they won’t even charge me to diagnose it. The service manager says I need a whole new engine wiring harness that would cost 1900 plus labor. He said that the wiring harness may be the beginning of my problems and then I asked him if they got it to start. He fumbled but then said no, which means they couldn’t diagnose anything like the crankshaft sensor or why it’s misfiring. He then said that I would need to tow it home or junk it.
I put the set of new plugs in (NGK ones recommended for this car), connected battery, and then drove to work. After 4 miles the check engine light came on and a few minutes later, the light started to blink for a few seconds. It blinked here and there for seconds at a time during my drive.
When I returned home, I hooked up my scanner and it was the same P0304 and P0301. I am not sure if this makes a difference at all but P0304 was the first code that came up and the freeze data only showed P0304. Not only did I get these two codes, I also have P1372 – Segment time incorrect. I researched that code and it\’s related to the crankshaft position sensor. I did have the code for this sensor in the past, P0335, and replaced it with this code never appearing again.
I did notice one thing when cleaning up the spark plug wires and tha’s the boot that connects to the top of the plug and snaps on when it\’s connected, did not snap on for cylinder 4. I retested the other wires after cleaning them and the spark plugs snap in for the other three, just not for the number 4 wire.
Could the wire be causing problems being that it\’s not connected the way it should be to spark plug number 4? Could the crankshaft position sensor be bad even though P0335 is not coming on, but only P1372 is? Could the misfire be causing that code to come on even though the crankshaft position sensor is working fine? Let\’s say I get a new wire set and that doesn\’t fix the problem, what else do you think I should check?
I put the set of new plugs in (NGK ones recommended for this car), connected battery, and then drove to work. After 4 miles the check engine light came on and a few minutes later, the light started to blink for a few seconds. It blinked here and there for seconds at a time during my drive.
When I returned home, I hooked up my scanner and it was the same P0304 and P0301. I am not sure if this makes a difference at all but P0304 was the first code that came up and the freeze data only showed P0304. Not only did I get these two codes, I also have P1372 – Segment time incorrect. I researched that code and it\’s related to the crankshaft position sensor. I did have the code for this sensor in the past, P0335, and replaced it with this code never appearing again.
I did notice one thing when cleaning up the spark plug wires and tha’s the boot that connects to the top of the plug and snaps on when it\’s connected, did not snap on for cylinder 4. I retested the other wires after cleaning them and the spark plugs snap in for the other three, just not for the number 4 wire.
Could the wire be causing problems being that it\’s not connected the way it should be to spark plug number 4? Could the crankshaft position sensor be bad even though P0335 is not coming on, but only P1372 is? Could the misfire be causing that code to come on even though the crankshaft position sensor is working fine? Let\’s say I get a new wire set and that doesn\’t fix the problem, what else do you think I should check?
I finally got around to checking this car again. I did a spray test with the car in park, at operating temperature, high RPM’s with check engine light blinking, and did not see any sparks anywhere. After that, I had my friend put the car in reverse with brake on, high RPM’s again with light blinking but still no sparks.
I took the valve cover off today because the cylinder 4 spark plug tube seal was bad and in the previous posts you can see some oil at the top of the ignition wire. The well was also very dirty with baked on oil. I did the best I could to clean out that spark plug well and also cleaned off the caked on oil on the ignition wire boot as well. The ignition wires for cylinders 1 and 4 both had the baked on oil at the bottom.
Here’s a pic of the spark plugs from cylinders 1 and 4, with 1 being on the left in both pics. Note that both have very visible cracks in the insulation:
[IMG]http://i58.tinypic.com/2n7nj7m.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i61.tinypic.com/zss83m.jpg[/IMG]
Any thoughts on this? Being the plug from cylinder 4 is worse, could it have caused the plug on cylinder 1 to do the same due to the fact that they are fired from the same coil pack? (Reminder that the right side of coil controls cylinders 1 and 4)
I finally got around to checking this car again. I did a spray test with the car in park, at operating temperature, high RPM’s with check engine light blinking, and did not see any sparks anywhere. After that, I had my friend put the car in reverse with brake on, high RPM’s again with light blinking but still no sparks.
I took the valve cover off today because the cylinder 4 spark plug tube seal was bad and in the previous posts you can see some oil at the top of the ignition wire. The well was also very dirty with baked on oil. I did the best I could to clean out that spark plug well and also cleaned off the caked on oil on the ignition wire boot as well. The ignition wires for cylinders 1 and 4 both had the baked on oil at the bottom.
Here’s a pic of the spark plugs from cylinders 1 and 4, with 1 being on the left in both pics. Note that both have very visible cracks in the insulation:
[IMG]http://i58.tinypic.com/2n7nj7m.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i61.tinypic.com/zss83m.jpg[/IMG]
Any thoughts on this? Being the plug from cylinder 4 is worse, could it have caused the plug on cylinder 1 to do the same due to the fact that they are fired from the same coil pack? (Reminder that the right side of coil controls cylinders 1 and 4)
Pics of Cylinder 1’s spark plug well
[IMG]http://i57.tinypic.com/25a6j4g.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i61.tinypic.com/219usmr.jpg[/IMG]Pics of Cylinder 4’s spark plug well. See that it’s a dark brown tint but not liquid. Also, there was no liquid on the plug.
[IMG]http://i60.tinypic.com/1t4ett.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i61.tinypic.com/2lnh2sz.jpg[/IMG]I will do the spray test later or tomorrow when I have time.
Pics of Cylinder 1’s spark plug well
[IMG]http://i57.tinypic.com/25a6j4g.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i61.tinypic.com/219usmr.jpg[/IMG]Pics of Cylinder 4’s spark plug well. See that it’s a dark brown tint but not liquid. Also, there was no liquid on the plug.
[IMG]http://i60.tinypic.com/1t4ett.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i61.tinypic.com/2lnh2sz.jpg[/IMG]I will do the spray test later or tomorrow when I have time.
Pic of the spark plugs from Cylinders 1 and 4. Note the brownish stains on insulation.
[IMG]http://i60.tinypic.com/2nggzsl.jpg[/IMG]Pic of ignition wires for Cylinders 1 and 4. Notice how 4 has oil at the top.
[IMG]http://i60.tinypic.com/fazwiw.jpg[/IMG]Cylinder 4 wire closer views
[IMG]http://i58.tinypic.com/1zcmzv8.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i60.tinypic.com/egbtrp.jpg[/IMG]Cylinders 1 and 4 with a view of the bottom of the wires. No liquid was found at the bottom but it had a brownish color on both.
[IMG]http://i61.tinypic.com/15wz6s0.jpg[/IMG]The car has been tested to have good spark at idle, no issue with fuel pressure and all injectors are working as normal, and the compression test was about the same for all 4 cylinders but only done dry. I assumed that coil, plugs, and wires are all ok due to all being fairly new.
Responses to what you wrote:
1. I didn’t test for any vacuum leaks yet due to the LTFT number being a high negative number and the car running rich and figured that a leak can be ruled out.2. As you can see, there is oil leaking on the top of the Cylinder 4 wire. I didn’t see any oil down past the top but the bottom of the wire has a brownish tint color to it.
3. I did have the code come up for the crankshaft sensor about 2 months ago then I replaced it and the code never came back.
4. I didn’t get a chance to do a spray test yet.
5. My car doesn’t have an EGR valve.
6. I didn’t get a chance to brake torque the engine yet either.
Remember that the right side of my coil controls Cylinders 1 and 4. Anything related to the oil leaking into the spark plug well for Cylinder 4 that can affect both Cylinders 1 and 4?
I will do a spray test and brake torque it tomorrow and update this thread.
Pic of the spark plugs from Cylinders 1 and 4. Note the brownish stains on insulation.
[IMG]http://i60.tinypic.com/2nggzsl.jpg[/IMG]Pic of ignition wires for Cylinders 1 and 4. Notice how 4 has oil at the top.
[IMG]http://i60.tinypic.com/fazwiw.jpg[/IMG]Cylinder 4 wire closer views
[IMG]http://i58.tinypic.com/1zcmzv8.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i60.tinypic.com/egbtrp.jpg[/IMG]Cylinders 1 and 4 with a view of the bottom of the wires. No liquid was found at the bottom but it had a brownish color on both.
[IMG]http://i61.tinypic.com/15wz6s0.jpg[/IMG]The car has been tested to have good spark at idle, no issue with fuel pressure and all injectors are working as normal, and the compression test was about the same for all 4 cylinders but only done dry. I assumed that coil, plugs, and wires are all ok due to all being fairly new.
Responses to what you wrote:
1. I didn’t test for any vacuum leaks yet due to the LTFT number being a high negative number and the car running rich and figured that a leak can be ruled out.2. As you can see, there is oil leaking on the top of the Cylinder 4 wire. I didn’t see any oil down past the top but the bottom of the wire has a brownish tint color to it.
3. I did have the code come up for the crankshaft sensor about 2 months ago then I replaced it and the code never came back.
4. I didn’t get a chance to do a spray test yet.
5. My car doesn’t have an EGR valve.
6. I didn’t get a chance to brake torque the engine yet either.
Remember that the right side of my coil controls Cylinders 1 and 4. Anything related to the oil leaking into the spark plug well for Cylinder 4 that can affect both Cylinders 1 and 4?
I will do a spray test and brake torque it tomorrow and update this thread.
I opened everything up today and got the shield wire exposed. Once I peeled some of the outer layer off, there was like gooey hardened stuff at the top of the shield wire. I scraped that all out and then peeled the wire cover down more to where I got to the silver wire wrapping part of the shield wire. I also put in a new connector to the coil that I found at the junkyard and had a friend solder the wires. We used heat shrink wrap on the exposed parts.
I tested for continuity between the Green wire for cylinders 1 and 4 and the silver shield wire to see if somehow that Green wire melted and opened up somewhere, connecting to the shield wire at some point. There was no continuity between those two wires.
I tested for ground on the silver shield wire, touching the ground test lead to the intake manifold and then the other lead touching the silver wire wrap. The reading for this was 0.4 and when I touched the two test leads together, that reading was 0.4 as well. After all that, I wrapped the shield wire with a generous amount of electrical tape.
What else can this possibly be? What other tests should I do? Am I wrong to say that the shield wire is ok and being that the Green wire isn’t connected to the shield wire, that the Green wire is ok as well?
I opened everything up today and got the shield wire exposed. Once I peeled some of the outer layer off, there was like gooey hardened stuff at the top of the shield wire. I scraped that all out and then peeled the wire cover down more to where I got to the silver wire wrapping part of the shield wire. I also put in a new connector to the coil that I found at the junkyard and had a friend solder the wires. We used heat shrink wrap on the exposed parts.
I tested for continuity between the Green wire for cylinders 1 and 4 and the silver shield wire to see if somehow that Green wire melted and opened up somewhere, connecting to the shield wire at some point. There was no continuity between those two wires.
I tested for ground on the silver shield wire, touching the ground test lead to the intake manifold and then the other lead touching the silver wire wrap. The reading for this was 0.4 and when I touched the two test leads together, that reading was 0.4 as well. After all that, I wrapped the shield wire with a generous amount of electrical tape.
What else can this possibly be? What other tests should I do? Am I wrong to say that the shield wire is ok and being that the Green wire isn’t connected to the shield wire, that the Green wire is ok as well?
Here’s pics of where the Yellow (Coil 2) wire and Green (Coil 1) wire go inside that shield wire. According to the manual, the shield wire only connects to ground and it’s a “Radia Frequency Interferece” wire.
I tried to do a resistance test between ground and touching the shield wire but it looks like a hardened glue in that area so I got no reading.
[IMG]http://i62.tinypic.com/1snsjp.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i59.tinypic.com/14ik1s0.jpg[/IMG]
Here’s pics of where the Yellow (Coil 2) wire and Green (Coil 1) wire go inside that shield wire. According to the manual, the shield wire only connects to ground and it’s a “Radia Frequency Interferece” wire.
I tried to do a resistance test between ground and touching the shield wire but it looks like a hardened glue in that area so I got no reading.
[IMG]http://i62.tinypic.com/1snsjp.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i59.tinypic.com/14ik1s0.jpg[/IMG]
A diagram that I found of the coil wires. I went to the junkyard and opened up the harness from where the Coil 1 and 2 wires go inside the bigger brown shield wire. I then spliced open the brown shield wire the whole way to the firewall and the yellow and green coil wires are not cut open or spliced at all under the hood. I wouldn’t know where to find the SC07, SC25, and SC26 on this diagram.
