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It could possibly be an oxygen sensor. I recommend that you (or anyone else who drives a car) get a code scanner, preferably one that shows live data. Here’s a nice low cost scanner that works great:
http://www.amazon.com/Buke-U581-OBDII-EOBDII-Scanner/dp/B00S5R56B8/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1438155973&sr=1-1&keywords=Blusmart+U581+CAN%2FOBDII%2FEOBDII+Memo
While possible, it seems unlikely that an O2 sensor would just happen to go bad right after the cat swap, not to mention that typically if the sensor goes bad you’ll get a code specific to the sensor rather than the P0420 code. Check what changed, which in this case pretty much means check for exhaust leaks. Otherwise, like Arcturus already mentioned, it may be the part that the shop is using is not compatible. You might have to shell out the $ for an OEM catalytic converter; aftermarket ones are cheaper for a reason, and in this case the reason isn’t just dealer markup.Before you buy replacement parts, find someone with a fuel pressure tester and test the fuel pressure.
I had a similar problem in a Tundra once that ended up being an oxygen sensor. If you have access to a scanner that reads live data, check out what the O2 sensors are doing. The fuel pump could in fact be the issue, you can get a fuel pressure gauge for $30 on Amazon or have someone else check it, but I don’t see a highly intermittent electrical issue being a good reason to rule out the fuel pump as your stall problem.
Maybe try replacing that transmission mount if you haven’t already. Did anything change in the months leading up to the vibration? Did you swap any parts of add/delete anything?
I had a no crank no start on my 2007 Frontier that ended up being due to deterioration of a small rubber pad on the back of the clutch pedal that depresses a switch on the firewall when the clutch is pressed. The rubber pad dry rotted and fell out, meaning the interlock switch on the firewall wasn’t being depressed, which meant the truck didn’t recognize that the clutch was pressed and wouldn’t crank. Thanks to the Frontier forums I was able to track this down pretty quickly. If you have a no start no crank on a manual transmission vehicle, you might want to take a look at the back of your clutch.
Could be wheel bearing, ball joint, other stuff. Look and see if you can where the play is actually coming from; it’s the only way to know for sure what’s bad.
Hmmm, sounds like you’ve pretty much covered the easy stuff. Have you checked the dampener in the crankshaft pulley? The next step might be a chassis ear to track down specifically where the sound is coming from.
Make a diagram or take a picture, I always find it easier to snap a few photos on my phone before I begin a project where I’m disassembling something. As far as from above or below, just get in there and see what it takes. It might be that getting underneath, maybe even jacking it up and taking the wheel off, will make it much simpler.
Sounds eerily similar to the issue I was having:
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/8-Service-and-Repair-Questions-Answered-Here/59084-altima-engine-vibration-at-2k-rpm
When I was trying to figure out my vibration issue, I read in other forums symptoms that sounded similar to mine that ended up being exhaust-related, but for some reason I was convinced my issue was something else so it took me longer than necessary to resolve. It’s at least worth checking out your exhaust system and exhaust hangers. It might also be worth taking your accessory belt off and running the vehicle briefly to make sure it’s not related to any of the accessory pulleys.As was previously stated, save your money. It can be tempting, but almost definitely won’t make a difference. Also,
“Tell us why you are considering an additive and someone will suggest a remedy. “This issues was resolved by removing my aftermarket under-body (downstream) catalytic converter and replacing it with the old factory one. I guess the aftermarket one hit resonant frequency at 2K RPM or something, it’s just odd that the vibration took so long to develop, since I installed the aftermarket cat over 6 months ago. It was a cheap (maybe $140) replacement part that I got at Autozone after the flex pipe on my factory cat become extremely corroded. So glad to have this issues resolved and know that I didn’t trash my engine!