[jmorgan456]

I replaced the timing belt and I checked compression before replacing the head.
The block was amazing. Factory crosshatch still on cylinders. The head has been heat cycled a few times, so perhaps I should do a valve job?

[jmorgan456]

Sorry – wrong subforum. I reposted in the reair questions

[jmorgan456]

Then you can absolutely do it.

Start small – get help and buy the tools you need as you go. Double and triple check. There is so much on the net today – you can do most jobs.

I tell all shade tree folks to start with this pearl and do not forget. I know it competes with eric, but the thought is important.

http://www.cartalk.com/content/do-it-yourself-guide-1

[jmorgan456]

I am a self taught shade tree mechanic. There are very few jobs on my own cars that I would not be willing to attempt.

That said, I could not do repairs for a living. For one thing – I am pretty sure an employer would frown on the beers. More seriously, I get things done right. But not quickly. I also spend a lot of time researching every repair. As a tech, you had better know most things without research.

[jmorgan456]

FIXED —

After the last go ’round with the scan tool, I was convinced that the bad running was triggering the misfire readings in other cylinders.

Since the #3 was now good, I switched out the coil which I originally thought was bad. Voila. Runs like a champ – no codes.

So here is a case where the diagnosis made matters worse before they got better.

BTW — I went with the NAPA house brand Echlin – mostly because it was available and the car needs to run. The repair is pretty easy once you get access. Access is a bear – you need to remove a bunch of shielding holding the cabin air filter etc.

[jmorgan456]

I need the thin wall socket to get at the plugs. But that would be next.

Update: I pulled all three supposedly bad cylinder packs. Hit them each with electrical parts cleaner and reassembled.

The only code thrown was p0301. So I am thinking that the rough running triggered the other codes.
Am I just deluding myself?

[jmorgan456]

10lbs is normal? It seemed awfully low to me – but I am not a tech. One of the enthusiast forums suggest that Saab standard oil pressure at idle is 18 psi plus/minus 2 psi. Oil pressure at 2000 rpm is 38 psi, again plus/minus 2psi depending on a lot of factors such as type of oil, oil temperature, mileage since last oil change… Is there other (better) info out there?

I suspect oil starvation because if there was not a starvation problem, the turbo failure within one day of an oil light is a heck of a coincidence.

Anything is possible, but generally I “think horses not zebras.” If a bearing fails within days of an oil light illuminating, it suggests to me that the two are related. So, if one bearing fails are not others on their way too? I get that the turbo is the most vulnerable bearing, so it might be the early failure point and essentially saves the rest of the engine? Or is that wishful thinking?

I think he checked the sender first. Once it proved bad, he did not drop the pan, but instead run a flush just in case.

If I change to turbo, I will drop the pan to get any metal out – or as much as I can.

[jmorgan456]

10lbs is normal? It seemed awfully low to me – but I am not a tech. One of the enthusiast forums suggest that Saab standard oil pressure at idle is 18 psi plus/minus 2 psi. Oil pressure at 2000 rpm is 38 psi, again plus/minus 2psi depending on a lot of factors such as type of oil, oil temperature, mileage since last oil change… Is there other (better) info out there?

I suspect oil starvation because if there was not a starvation problem, the turbo failure within one day of an oil light is a heck of a coincidence.

Anything is possible, but generally I “think horses not zebras.” If a bearing fails within days of an oil light illuminating, it suggests to me that the two are related. So, if one bearing fails are not others on their way too? I get that the turbo is the most vulnerable bearing, so it might be the early failure point and essentially saves the rest of the engine? Or is that wishful thinking?

I think he checked the sender first. Once it proved bad, he did not drop the pan, but instead run a flush just in case.

If I change to turbo, I will drop the pan to get any metal out – or as much as I can.

[jmorgan456]

My understanding is that he changed the sender. He also ran a flush as a prophylactic in case there was a blockage. He did not drop the pan.

[jmorgan456]

My understanding is that he changed the sender. He also ran a flush as a prophylactic in case there was a blockage. He did not drop the pan.

[jmorgan456]

I am leaning toward fixing the turbo. I would feel horrible if the car was junked this early. It still feels nearly new otherwise.

[jmorgan456]

I am leaning toward fixing the turbo. I would feel horrible if the car was junked this early. It still feels nearly new otherwise.

[jmorgan456]

update, replaced the passenger side half shaft, the vibration is WAY down.

Prob need to do the driver’s side, but one wasn’t available at the time and the ride is MUCH improved. Will get to it sooner or later.

[jmorgan456]

update, replaced the passenger side half shaft, the vibration is WAY down.

Prob need to do the driver’s side, but one wasn’t available at the time and the ride is MUCH improved. Will get to it sooner or later.

[jmorgan456]

Update – using about a quart every few weeks. It is about +- 1000 miles.

I am trying to get a better fix on mileage, but any way you slice it, way too much usage.

[Author]

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