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How did you determine the engine mount was loose? Was it visually obvious or?? I have a shudder the moment I hit 25mph and lasts thru 30mph when maintaining the gas pedal steady. If I press the pedal deeper to get more power then the shudder disappears, or if I start up pressing the pedal deeper from the start it never happens. I’ve heard it could be the torque converter (shudder). I’ll inspect my engine mounts just in case. Thanks for your input.
Hi Eric, I can definitely understand both sides of this coin, still the responsibility lies with the customer as is their decision in the end. Most customers also distrust most mechanics unless there’s a long term history of trust between customer and shop, or if the problem is as blatant as tires showing wires. Still, must be nerve wracking watching a customer drive away on an accident waiting to happen.
On another note, when are you going to do another live show?
[quote=”RynoNouvello” post=183483][quote=”jmlarios13″ post=183441]Is that a good case for Boston/New England as a stop?[/quote]
you surely made a good case. lol[/quote]
😉 😆Hi Eric,
A couple of weeks ago I was looking at appliances at a local big box store, and I ran into a refrigerator with an android-capable built-in tablet on the door that had a paused EricTheCarGuy youtube video on it. I also know that there’s a a good chunk of guys here in the New England/Boston area that follow your videos, I’ve had many conversations with guys at auto parts stores about fixes where your name has come up several times. Even the autoparts store employees recommended customers to check out your videos for repair help. I bet you have many subscribers from this area.You can also take time and visit all the great U.S. historical sites, see where the American revolution started. Many historical places that just take your breath away. Standing in John Adams’ house, on the North Bridge looking at how close the Americans were from the British when the first shot heard ’round the world was fired. The Lexington Greens, stand right where the Minutemen first died in what was to be the start of the revolutionary war. The North Church, Paul Revere’s house and capture site. Eat at the Union Oyster House, America’s oldest continuously operating eatery since 1826 (good food too). Really takes you aback to stand on those grounds and soak it all in, it’ll remind you what this great country is all about and the principles it was founded on.
I was born in Central America, lived in Florida for 30 years before moving here, and since, I’ve visited those sites many times especially when we have visitors. I can tell you that after 7 years I still learn something new and amazing each time I visit those areas.
Is that a good case for Boston/New England as a stop?
College Man, thank you for your help. Here’s how I fixed it. Basically the trick is to insert the shaft thru the hole so it rests on its 1st Journal. I was just barely putting it thru the hole on the oil pump housing and that would cause it to lock up when fastening the bolt.
A shortened snapshop version can be seen here: https://youtu.be/lG9xzGm38i4
A more complete 11minute video can be seen here: https://youtu.be/nbBjXw3rw-c
Thanks College man and of course, Eric. Hope this helps someone.
Sorry, I’d accidentally set it as private I’ve changed it to public and you should be able to see it now.
Perhaps this video will help clear what I mean. The locking up is visible towards the end of the video. Thanks.
Find video here: https://youtu.be/y6vEod8lj8QThanks a mill…
Hi Eric, Juan in Stoughton, MA here. First, thanks a million for all your work, it’s helped me a ton and I’ve learned a lot. Have 3 questions, feel free to answer all or none 🙂 but DO read the last paragraph:
1. ’06 Odyssey that feels like I’m driving on a ridged road, I feel vibration on the steering wheel but no where else. It comes on when I rev the engine but not 100% of the time & never at idle or when cruising w/o my foot on the gas. At first I thought it might be the passenger side motor mount which I replaced during a recent timing belt job in June ’16 but it looks in decent shape from the outside (haven’t fully inspected it yet). The van does have pulsating brakes at higher speeds but I’m sure that’s just from the ‘warped rotors’ which I already have replacements for. The van will also need a new P/S pump as it’s leaking and sometimes it’s hard to turn at low speeds. I don’t suspect any of these issues to be the culprit, other than that the van drives great.
2. Ever change oil pump on a F22B1 engine (94 Accord EX)? Having problems when Installing pump back on the engine block and putting the rear balancer shaft thru the cylindrical hole on the pump. When I do, it locks the balancer shaft still where it won’t spin at all. Removing the pump again allows the shaft to spin freely like nothing’s wrong. Feels like the hole’s gotten smaller or the shaft thicker in the 10 minutes since removing the pump. I removed it during a timing belt job to replace o-rings and gaskets since i had a small oil leak from the balancer gear case into the lower timing belt cover. Your thoughts?
3. AMA question: What’s the ETCG1 topic you’ve done that made you really think “why in the h*** did I open my mouth about that”?
In closing: I was walking around my local Best Buy store drooling at the new refrigerators with android enabled screens on the doors, and what do I see? a paused EricTheCarGuy youtube video on it. Someone was streaming you on a department store’s showroom refrigerator screen. You’re now ‘main stream’ my man. Congratulations 😀
Thanks always, Stay Dirty.
Had the same problem minus the MIL codes on my friend’s 94 Accord, turned out to be the fuel filler neck, rusted out like Swiss cheese. Might also fix the code in your case. Almost bought it used from a junk yard but didn’t. $83 new at local parts store.
Good luckWhen I install the oil pump, the rear balancer shaft has to go thru a cylindrical hole on the oil pump to protrude the portion of it where the gear is mounted to. After doing that, it is so tight that the shaft won’t spin like it’s supposed to, it’s like it’s seized in place. The picture above where I say “Won’t spin”, there in that position, that gear is stuck. It’s supposed to be able to spin so the oil pump balance gear will spin as well just like when you have to set it in correct timing to re-install the timing balancer belt. I can try & make a video and show you what I mean. If I remove the oil pump again then the shaft’s free again like nothing. It’s as if the cylindrical hole it goes thru has shrunk to where it doesn’t give enough play for the shaft to spin (I do put ample amount of engine oil on the shaft and the cylindrical hole before installing it, still won’t allow the shaft to spin).
Thank you..Eric has a video on that procedure, it’s a ‘Leakdown test’ in the States. If it’s your head gasket, sometimes you can also see the coolant extra oily when this is the case, as well as your engine oil might appear as a creamy sludge when you open the oil fill cap.
I had a similar problem, engine overheating and heat cabin wouldn’t go above 90°-95°F (35°C). Car would drive great as long as we didn’t turn the heater on, then turn the heater on and within minutes the engine was overheating. I flushed the heater core ’till the water coming out was clear, topped off the coolant and cabin heat would improve to maybe 105°F (40.6°C), but after some time driving the engine would overheat again and vent heat would drop to the 80’s (27°C). Since I’d gotten some improvement flushing the core I kept repeating the flushing and kept bleeding the system of air to no avail.
I’d bleed and bleed and bubbles still came out. I did the leakdown test and a cooling system pressure test and every other test and found nothing wrong and of course, the problem still wouldn’t go away. I’d even tried bleeding the air in the cooling system using a spill-free funnel while parking the car on a hill to help the engine burp the remaining air bubbles to no avail. Finally I flushed the core again, only this time, instead of pouring water ’till it came out clear on the other end, I did the following:
Note: Before flushing the heater core, you must first turn your ignition to the on position, then the A/C/Heater temperature setting to the hottest setting, then turn the key back to off.
1. I connected clear vinyl hoses on both the inlet and outlet heater hoses (so I could see the water coming out), the inlet hose I pointed into a catch-basin on the floor and clamped it secure to the basin to avoid spilling the flush.
2. To the outlet hose I attached a funnel, and poured about 8-12oz of distilled water (I used the outlet hose for back-flushing)
3. After pouring the water, I removed the funnel and pressed a high-pressure air gun (connected to my air compressor of course) to the hose and squeezed the trigger in spurts first and then fully opened. Make sure the other hose is well secured to the catch basin or the hose will thrash around like a stabbed basilisk (Harry Potter knows this). The basin should also be covered with a towel, not sealed, and somewhat secured as the water coming out is at high pressure and it will knock the basin around (took me 20 minutes to clean all the spilled coolant water around my garage) . I noticed that the water coming out was clear but also copper/rusty sand and crud was coming out in handfuls as well.
4. I repeated steps 2 and 3 until I got no more crud/sand, this took almost 10 gallons’ worth (no kidding on this one).
5. Re-attached the hoses back to the proper connections on the car and voila! high heat from the vents, around 168°F (76°C) and no more overheating.
What I presume is that the sand/crud was creating air pockets in the heater core. So the moral is, just cuz your flush-water is coming out clear after a flush, don’t assume you have a clean system. Also, in my case, gravity alone didn’t flush out the crud, I had to use highly compressed air to push it thru.
Hope this helps.
Leakdown test video (scroll to bottom of page):
https://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-performance-issues/leak-down-testing
Eric has mentioned and recommended the spill-free funnel (highly agree): http://a.co/84zKe2C
Air gun I used: http://a.co/gkuBTOq
Similar catch basin to the one I used: http://a.co/a1pZIURUnfortunately no difference. The Balancer driven gear won’t spin and thus won’t allow the pump to spin. Any help is appreciated. Here’s a synopsis:
1. Balancer shaft and gear were perfectly working before I removed the gear and the gear case. Have full replacement seals, O-Rings and gaskets for this job.
2. I only removed the pump to replace the o-rings and gaskets including the oil pan (leaking oil).
3. Didn’t remove the rear balancer shaft, I just pinned it in place w/ a phillips screwdriver (see pics)Any other questions please ask, and thank you for your opinion(s) and help. I’m really stuck here.