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Why, thank you!
I agree. I’ve had muscles that had been passed down the family before and all. And its fun to race and have a badass car. But now that my responsibilities have changed? Its just not as important lol I’d like to have a lunatic project again, don’t get me wrong… But I like something stock or modified for fuel efficiency. They last longer that way and its easier to find parts too! Haha like Honda civics… Probably my favorite little jap car… But I don’t like it being a rice burner. I like it being 1988 and 100% stock and raw lol they last forever that way.
Ok for sure. What if I find dubri in the trans fluid? Should I use an additive then or just roll with it?? Its funny, you aren’t the first person I’ve heard say that about Toyota’s and Toyota brand trans fluid lol why is that??
Oh Hell yeah man. I don’t mean to quote Jason Statham or anything because I was always raised to believe this haha but i believe if you take care of your vehicle, it’ll take care of you. I’m just as careful with he maintenance on my old GMC with 334k and smoke blowing out the tailpipe haha I drive these things 1-1.5k a week. They need to provide! Lol
Yeah see that’s just dumb. My daily never has stupid crazy power. If anything I put a high powered motor in a light car so it SEEMS powerful (I had an 86 s10 blazer we dropped a 5.0 305 in….it was quick lol but it lasted forever because it didn’t even need to try for daily driving. That thing originally came with a 2.8!). I was alway taught that more horsepower= shorter engine life. Especially when you get into forced induction.
Oh yeah. I feel that suspension and steering is a little different. If you can mount something better quality without needing to modify your frame at all? How can you go wrong in exception to a warrantied vehicle (which I’ve never had lol)
See I’m glad I haven’t had the money for those plugs haha I’ve always just stuck to the copper ones that have always been recommended for like… Every vehicle I’ve ever had and never looked back lol didn’t fix what wasn’t broken haha
Hahaha I love rants. Bob should’ve just kept things basic in his basic daily driver. I’m a musician as well as a car tinker-around…er lol and I’m sure you’ve heard our common saying…”KISS”…lol Keep It Simple Stupid… I try to apply that to everything lol
I’ve been looking it over. Do far the only leak I can find is at my knock sensor and both of my freeze plugs. Along the valve covers and heads? No leaks that I can see. Everything looks real clean.
Could you explain #2 again? I checked my spark plugs during the compression test. They seemed work but good still.
The oil looks…fine?? Lol what exactly am I looking for other than dubris??
Oh it’ll start by key and everything, I’ve been driving it around the last 2 days. Besides a sorta poor battery condition and a whining while in gear (I’m suspecting to be either my trans pump, filter or torque converter… Only whines while in gear and goes away 100% in “P” or “N”) its running great other than that damn smoke! Its reduced considerably after I took it on the Fwy for a bit over an hour holding 80 the whole time haha
Yeah I’m gonna at very LEAST start with the water method. It costs virtually nothing and its the most gentle procedure I’ve seen for carbon build up. I’ll suffer some mpg to keep this engine running a little longer until I buy the one I’m rebuilding/replacing it with. You know those engine treatments? The ones meant to help reseal rings and all to help your engine last a tad bit longer? Any you’d suggest considering the mileage of this thing? I’d like it to b effective without COMPLETELY destroying my mpg altogether. It gets 22-24 right now.
I was thinking about running another compression test now that she’s been driven a little bit??
Right? I want to learn bikes next. Particularly Honda.
CLR won’t be too rough to use in a car cooling system??
Ok for sure. The rubber replacements are a bit more expensive but… They seem more effective?? Plus I like that you crank down on them rather than hammering them a bunch. Seems easier to replace too.
Yes it is lol but eh… Could be worse lol
Ah. Makes sense. It sucks because all the research I found all said their vehicles run better post air pump delete but no one ever stated whether or not it made their car smoke or not.
I definitely want to invest in a new motor OR rebuilding this one. Even if I pay my friends shop to do it for $1200. I was just curious if driving it on these bad valve seals can cause further extreme damage or just sort of maintain its crap condition for a while? Lol the valve seals are like $16 for the set + the $22 total in valve cover gaskets. I also considered just buying a long block but strip pump/pulleys off of it except the crank (since mine are all new with lifetime warranties) from pick a part on a 1/2 off day out of one with between 100k-200k. Figured even those should be in better shape than mine. Know any of the drills for testing the engine I find before pulling it??
Touche haha
Yeah, sorry lol it all looks white to me. I’ll be honest. And from the sound of it? I think i prefer it to be white smoke lol
OK for sure. Running a new compression test couldn’t hurt. Doesn’t cost me anything but a little time.
I heard from someone else on here hat zmaxx is good and safe. What’s your opinion? From what I’ve read it sounds like a safe bet. Especially for vehicles as badly carbonated as this is sure to be.
Ok for sure. Would the blow by be my rings then??
I just found Eric’s video for it. It looks stupid simple. Can’t believe I’ve never heard of that before.
Thanks for taking the time to help me out man. I’m sort of teaching myself almost everything. And though I do a clean job (because I take extra time to figure out what NOT to do before performing the task) there’s still a ton I have to learn.
Ooo that looks like some heat duty stuff there lol exactly what this jalopy needs haha I’ve stuck my fingers in the coolant res. And its just like a reddish brown water haha it did get slightly better after I flushed EVERYTHING and replaced the water pump and thermo though.
Hmm… Didn’t even think about using my PB blaster and all before attempting to remove them. Speaking of which… How would you suggest removing them assuming they’re corroded and rusty??
Interesting. I worry about doing damage like that to this. Its a lifeline right now with the money its saving me in gas compared to my truck. I’m definitely not pouring atf into this thin anywhere but the res. For it…ya know, assuming its needed haha speaking of which, I’m gonna do a trans flush on this thing too. Any additives you’d recommend? It already gets fantastic mpg. So I’m more concerned about insuring it continues performing like this for as long as possible.
I actually just looked up the zmaxx product? I’m probably gonna commit to that. 1? Its that price for a reason…people will pay it for the result. So clearly its doing well. And I like what I read more than what I read about sea foam. I’ll probably use it in my yaris and old sierra.
Whatever I do to this car? I want it to be potent and aggressive enough to undeniably work WELL…but gentle enough to not screw this car up or shorten its life.
Sorry I’m on a phone that doesn’t allow me to compose a message as nice as that lol
So the extra, hotter exhaust hitting the, as you say, cooler CAT causes more smoke??
Ok that’s what I’ve thought. How bad is it to drive on those? And could I replace them without speeding up the process of something internal motor breaking? What about the vapor what does that indicate? It IS in a garage (with multiple open doors…lol) when I’m usually running it. So I can see exhaust well. However, I’m color blind.
Interesting. I was told something different online. I thought 150 was real good for it?? I’m gonna probably run another test then. Try and get a better reading especially since its warmed back up here.
Damn $75 is a little out of my price range for a tool right now :/ I recently lost my job. My spark plugs are also completely horizontal.
Ok for sure. What would excessive oil on PCV mean? Bad valve seals right??
Interesting. Just straight water? I’m guessing preferable distilled?? I don’t need to mix it with a solvent or anything? What exactly is the process (assuming I already have the spray bottle and know how to spray it into my intake)
Touché lol he was still learning cars at that point. I just worry. I’ll be fixing all of this on a budget for a while. Can’t afford to screw things up worse. That’s why I’m being so cautious. I’d rather the more experienced guide me towards the proper way the first time.
Ah, makes sense. Once I replace those plugs and sensor it’ll be back to coolant. I know I already have rust in my coolant. Not sure how to remove it. Radiator flush didn’t seem to do a whole lot. Water is still as discolored and gross. But by the looks of my freeze plugs? They aren’t going to be nice when I go to remove them.
See I thought me deleting my smog pump could have a little to do with it but everyone I’ve asked couldn’t be sure. When I took out the pump and lines (I capped off the holes in the motor. I did it all correctly) a bunch of black crud came out of them. Like…a lot. And when I shook it I could hear tons of pieces shaking around. Plus the pump was SHOT. Ate a hose and everything. Seems to get better mpg without it. My question is how sure are you this is contributing??
OK I’m glad I tested it again. At first? Its a cloud of white smoke at startup. Then once that goes away, the reving seems to be a vapor that evaporates somewhat quickly. Not instantly though. Its also not overheating. During my first test drive POST work that was something I was testing (since water pump and whatnot got replaced) so I forced it to stay in traffic a bit but I did take it on the freeway a little. It was rush hour and the truck isn’t at my house so I’m limited on when I can mess with it. It drove beautifully. Best its ever done since I’ve owned it.
Yeah I thought those numbers were low too. It WAS during the coldest part of the season here and after it had been sitting for 2 months. Its the 3rd compression test I’ve done to it since I’ve owned it. In October (when the weather was still stupid hot here…) it scored more like 145-150 constant throughout all cylinders PLUS it was being driven 1,000-1,500+ miles per week (most times loaded down)
How expensive is that scope you mentioned? I don’t have one nor have anyone who would I can think of. Are there way around needing one? How would I check the PCV valve? What am I looking for? There’s no CEL for it.
What are the most effective ways to remove carbon? You said with a spray bottle? I’ve always known people to use treatments??
What I meant by that was… Would carbon build up remain even after a couple test drives and start ups? Its gone through maybe a 1/5 tank of gas. At 24mpg.
Ive wanted to use sea foam on this. I figured it could benefit greatly from it. Using the due, intake and oil treatments. Although I’ve seen it used and heard great things about it… I have a friend who swears he used it and didn’t know he had a blown head gasket and it blew his motor. So I worry about not knowing about a bad seal or something and using sea foam and then blowing my motor before I can buy the new one I’ll eventually be swapping into it.
Damn.. I’m using tap water. I didn’t know it was a big deal. I mean… I know batteries require distilled but didn’t know that about radiators. Always seen family members just throwing the garden hose in and filling it up after a head gaasket replacement or whatever have you. Always thought as long as it isn’t cold enough to freeze I was all good. Guess I gotta make that knock sensor and freeze plugs a higher priority so it doesn’t blow through coolant anymore!
Also… Replacing the crank gear everyone keeps talking about the same as that sprocet the timing chain wraps around right??
I’ve been looking into it. It seems the most POPULAR causes for it is A. Oil level, B. Dirty oil or C. Clogged/Faulty OCV. So I’m thinking about running an oil flush and changing the oil…again lol and then putting an additive in it to continue cleaning it while I drive it. If that doesn’t fix it, I’m gonna take out the OCV and check if the solenoid works or not and figured I’d replace the belt while I’m at it. Looks about time.
Out of curiosity, what were your experiences with sea foam? What happened? And why do you call it that?? I’ve seen it work wonders but haven’t used it on my own car. I had a friend who’s engine blew after using it. Granted…he was hauling ass around shortly after using it.
Lol Right? I’m used to old GMC’s and 88 Civic or old Jeep. So this Toyota, FWD with DOHC and all these critter comforts? Lol its a whole new experience to work on.
I just did a fresh oil change on it and used the factory recommended weight and all. I used high mileage too (car has 165K on it). As far ad the maintenance? I got it from a family member that took it straight to Toyota for everything down to oil changes with the exception of one time. I have SOME of the records. Nothing suggests a problem from what I’ve seen. It all seems like regular maintenance.
I do know it was taken to WalFart for an oil change. Ever since the belt squeals every now and then and when I went to do it, of course the oil filter was a bitch to get out and so was the drain plug. So its making me wonder… Any other suggestions?
I was curious about trying some sea foam in it. Would this be wise? I figured any carbon or sludge build up will be forced out right? Any risks?
If its gonna smoke now that its this worn on, that’s fine. My big question is then… How reliable will it be until I rebuild/swap the engine? Is it safe to drive this way? I’ve fixed ALL check engine lights, you saw compression, she sounds and runs great now (compared to how she did) my ONLY concern is that smoke and its driving me crazy.
Hi guys, thank you for the replies!
I run nothing but water in it for now. I live in Southern California. I don’t really need to worry about it turning to ice. I run water due to a coolant leak at my freeze plugs and knock sensor (there’s still plenty of work to be done, I know lol). So my question is, could that possibly cause that? I’m no chemist so please correct me if I’m wrong, but would water just burn away in the motor before reaching exhaust? Would carbon build up continue to burn up after several starts and revs and all? Only time I’ve seen carbon like that is when I’ve used sea foam. Which I’ve considered using on this thing. But would that blow my engine if I had bad valve seals?
No offense taken, I’m on here to get opinions from DIYers more experienced than me! Lol I did consider it being condensation. But then we had a hot day (into the high 80’s or low 90’s) and it still did it??
I’ve replaced everything steering and suspension in this truck (for the most part) even down to steering box. I’d eventually like to replace the rear end, trans and motor. Maybe even drop a diesel in it? Idk. I unintentionally fell in love with the truck. Figure eventually it’ll be a new truck. I’m better shape than others I’ve seen in my price range even given the higher miles lol