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Here is another video to try. This is complete intake gasket change but again the valve cover gaskets are included. My front valve cover was able to come off without taking off the front mounts but required some maneuvering. I do think I had to pull heater core bypass line but may not be issue on yours. The rear valve cover will require engine coils to be removed if still in same place. I just pulled the bracket 4 fasteners and took out as complete assembly.
Agree’d most important they do not mix and you meticulously flush old stuff out. I am personally a fan of going OEM, however with the new universal, it really shouldn’t make any difference. Make sure you are getting the universal green and not the older glycol.
Best of luckIt stinks that coolant could of got in and potentially corrupted test however if it shoots high enough to hit your friend in face on reving, you have a head gasket issue. That is compression pushing the coolant out like that. Stop leak will be a waste of time.
Either fix it or drive it and keep eye on temp, oil and coolant.
Best of luck.These engines are also known for piston slap on cold start, better when warm with expansion. Best of luck.
Fixed.
Turned out to be loose screw on filter. Could spin it with 1 finger. Glad not to throw parts at that.
Did that model have the crank position sensor. Might check that as far as the initial loss of fuel and spark
Have 99 Monte carlo with the 3.1
Yes it is push rod engine to question above. Nightflyr suggestion might be worth looking into.
These engines are known for there intake gasket problems. While changing mine. I noticed multiple rocker nuts were loose. THere is a torques spec with additional angle to tighten. Best of luck.Test, don’t guess. Here is a good understanding video but you will need to be able to test fuel pressure. The other thing is if the regulator is vacuum regulated and you pull vacuum hose and fuel comes out, it is bad. May not be your main problem, but in that instance it is still bad. Best of luck.
Have you checked fuel pressure your self. With car off and key primed and then while cranking. They will tell you if you have a fuel pressure problem. Could be new most likely “after market” pump is bad or other problem in system.
Purge valve is under hood. Take off and try to blow through with it unplugged. If you can it is bad if not put it back on. Next, you can take hose that goes back from purge valve back to gas tank off at purge valve and hook up your homemade smoke machine there.
Your problem will be that your vent valve at gas tank will be open when de-energized and smoke will come through there. For now see if you can plug or cover that and to see if leaking somewhere else in system. If not leaking anywhere else. Try taking vent valve off at gas tank and hook power and ground separate too from car wiring and try to blow through, it should be closed when energized.
Leak is with evap system, not manifold. iF purge valve is closing it will seperate itself from intake when testing. You are looking for larger leak not drizzle while testing. Best of luck.“As for solenoid testing techniques, it is the same regardless of what kind of solenoid or where it is located; engine, transmission, emissions, etc. All the same. Check at each solenoid’s electrical connector for the presence of power and ground when it is supposed to be energized (on). Check the resistance of the solenoid coil, should be very low: usually between 0.2 and 0.8 ohms. If those tests check out, attempt to manually activate the solenoid by directly applying power and ground to it, and it should click and/or you should see its action occur.”
Any advice for testing procedure on Transmission pressure sensor and Output speed sensor.