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Would start by checking fuel pressure at idle and when stepping on gas. Should not drop. Use scan tool and see what fuel trim is doing overall.
This does not mean start replacing fuel related parts. Just starting diag.
I would say if you don’t have the tools to look at live data, then you should at least pay the fee for diagnosis before throwing a stack of parts at it that may not help. Best of luck.
You can get scan tools that blue tooth to your phone fairly reasonable online. If you go that route, look for something you can look at live data such as fuel trims and O2 readings. That being said if you are not going to use it much, pay the diag fee. You may look at live data and may not give you much direction.Also if your smelling in cab, check your floor boards and make sure not damp with coolant for possible heater core issue.
Hard to tell from picture if water pump is leaking or an o-ring at the tube is leaking. I would say fix it before you find yourself stranded with overheat if it is a water pump issue. Stay away from the stop-leak, it is crap. Fix the issue. Water pump or o-ring, gasket etc.
Might consider slightly thicker viscosity oil than factory recommended or high millage oil. It should not get warm enough to “thin out oil” too much however with 220,000 miles on engine she may have a few extra gaps. Best of luck and keep eye on it.
Would look in factory service manual for exact specs. They are fairly cheap on EBAY or you could look into threat checker and take some measurements your self.
Compression and oil pressure would be good to check to ensure engine health. Included below is video for checking on rod knock but it would be strange for it to be completely gone without AC even when you step on throttle and create load that way.
If you have stethoscope or long screwdriver, you might listen to body of AC when activated. Maybe AC is locking up ??
Best of luckBleeding the old fashion way should work fine for calipers and brake pads. Just be careful not to let master run dry or you will have bigger problems with it and ABS module getting air in it. Should that happen, you will need a scanner due to activate ABS Module. To due complete brake flush of master and lines, 2 man will work again not letting master run low and bleeding until you see fresh fluid. Would want to take turkey baster or something similiar and get out as much old fluid from Master as possible and refill there with new fluid 1st. In order to bleed what little is in ABS module, you would have to have scan tool to actuate but I would say what little that is compared to whole system, you are fine without.
Lastly gravity bleed calipers before pumping on pedal the 1st time goes along way for isolating air at calipers and not mixing through system.
Best of luck.Need Spark, fuel, compression, air,
Check fuel pressure at prime and during cranking. Does it start with starter fluid?
Check compression. etc.
Hold brake pedal to illuminate brake lights. Have someone watch while you “jiggle”/ move around turn signal switch. If the brake lights flick on and off with the movement, then your turn signal switch is bad.
You can check for amp draw across the individual fuses while plugged in. When in amp mode do not touch a power and ground. You will risk causing damage. only do amp measurement in circuit on power OR ground side.
Don’t really understand why radiator was replaced in 1st place on training rebuild but if it is good, then it is good. Flush it out and reinstall. On returning other one, if you have receipt, you should be good. If not and dont have purchase # or anything, you are probably out of luck.
Lastly Check to see if training fluid is burnt and replace if need be.Your looking for a leak not a clog. The system is detecting a loss when it tries to seal itself and test. And it will be a larger leak. Unsure if that is enough voltage on Vent valve. Next steps would be to check with smoke machine and then possible get specs on vent valve voltage. Probably could find that in FSM listed above. Best of luck.