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Another thought is those snap into a bracket near the back of the alternator, if you can unsnap the hard line out of that you may be able to wiggle it just enough to get on fuel rail. Sorry not much help here.
Yeah its ridiculous. I am sure with the right adapter it would not needed that. That being said, I changed the lower intake on mine and that was crap. I had to pull almost everything off the top of and around the intake to get to that pos.
Do you have any adapters to check at the fuel line where it comes in near the throttle body with the quick connects. I believe one is incoming and the other is return.
I have the 3.1L in the monte carlo. It takes 3 bolts to remove power steering pump with lines still attached. You’ll have to take belt off but leave lines attached. You may need to pull the one bolt and move that belt diagram cover plate as well. Just move it an inch or two to get fitting on rail. You should only run car for short time to check fuel pressure with water pump not turning. If anyone else finds this as a bad idea, please post.
I would probably not bother with a $20 scanner if Orielly is giving you codes. The $20 tool is nice to get the code but that is about all it will do. I have a bluedriver which Eric did a video on. I like it but your out a $100 and I dont think it is near as capable with some of the foreign models. You would have to check about Toyota.
If your concerned about your own capabilities, the diagnosis from the mechanic is a good idea but again look for a trust worthy one that will diagnose problem and not just give you a code if you know what i mean. Then again you can choose to have them fix it or change part your self.
Electronics can be faulty but If you have different codes coming up, I would not suspect your “Check engine light” is broken. What are the codes? Do you notice any driveability problems ie: rough idle, loss of power on acceleration, stalling etc. Do you notice excessive white or dark smoke coming out of tail pipe? Does it small like gas when driving? Hope that all of this makes since.Took front caliper off, replaced hardware but not the new pads. Regreased, cleaned rotor with brake clean, etc and put back together. Drove fine yesterday and today began to squeal when cold but stopped after a minute or two of braking. Took back apart and found large crack in outer break pad splitting pad against rotor from inner pad back metal plate. Obviously replacing, would you still change the caliper. Again not grabbing etc….
I would suggest getting a print out of codes so you know what all is going on. I have not had good luck with AZ scanning codes and giving adequate feed back. Codes don’t mean just change a part. It maybe out of budget for you however I invested in my own scan tool and have had a lot better luck. When a code comes up, look at the code, what does it take to set the code and not AZ most reported part sold to fix if you know what I mean. Not much help here but if you get the codes, miles etc, Maybe can help more.
Not familiar with Honda but a lot of newer models with ABS require a bidirectional scan tool to bleed the ABS unit if you got air in it. Other than that, Verify no loss in fluid in reservoir for other potential leaks, etc.
Where is rattle coming from, compressor, dash? Does it rattle when clutch is not engaged? Does it rattle from near belt tensioner?
I am not as smart as some of these other guys so listen to them 1st. Based off your last post, if coolant is not low and air is bled out, I would suspect pump with intermitant heating and your over heat problem. If I read it right., your overheating uphill also which your engine has to work harder than going down hill or in idle and would probably appreciated the normal flow of coolant instead of diminished.
is there any play in outer cv joint? what does it sound like when you rotate wheel on stand? I know you said you didn’t here typical sound. Can you hear anything from stand ie: is there any noise in Wheel bearing? Any roaring in floor board?…. etc.
I know eric has video on testing wheel bearing with one wheel off ground but be careful and maybe point your car to drive out of shop and ensure you have same slip on front/ rear end.