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Possible head gasket, obstructed radiator. Shouldnt need an upgraded radiator just to prevent overheat. OEM should work fine unless it is plugged.
Would take back appart and make sure to lube mating points of pads to the caliper slides and to the antirattle clips with either antiseize or some type of brake grease. Also obviously check and grease slide pins with high temp brake grease. Best of luck
If you pour fluid down the dipstick tube with the pan off, it will just hit the ground. You will only be flushing the dipstick tube, not internals of the transmission.
Ensure Battery is good, Clean connections and tight. Look for bad grounds, corroded connections etc. Check out BBB industries for wiring diagram on headlights. Find out what is common between them and interior lights. Best of luck.
You may be done. If the brakes feel fine when driving like normal. You have probably already bled out the air. As far as getting hard with car off, the above post is correct in that the booster is not assisting. The only reason to keep going is that you still have soft pedal.
Your more specific code suggest needs valve clearance which may need adjustment versus blocked EGR which you would need to test for.
Beyond that you should go to basics
Check fuel pressure
Check compression which also may be down if valves are out of adjustment.
Check sparkSee links below. Best of luck. May not be your engine but to give you idea.
I would be looking at your Master cylinder myself. If you can verify on FSM. The X pattern comes from the master cylinder, two separate ports so that if you loose fluid, you don’t loose both front brakes.
I think the likely hood of collapsing both hoses or or freezing calipers or a combination there of on the same x pattern is less likely. Could be master cylinder is not fully releasing. Also is your brake pedal returning after letting off or does it drag down for awhile? Do those brake lines come off the rear master cylinder port if the brake pedal/ booster is partially engaged.
A few things to think on. Best of luckOption 1. Faulty air/ fuel sensor. It would seem unlikely to go out at same time as unplugging. Do you have access to live data scan tool? Can you manipulate it with propane. Reving etc? See video and thread link below on understanding and diagnosing AFR sensor.
Faulty wiring. Can test wiring for open loop, power, ground, shorts etc.
Dirty connection, you said it looks clean. You can shine light into female connections to ensure nothing in terminals.
Sorry but those are your three options short of a computer not playing nice. You will have to diagnose or parts swap. You could try driving it for a few days and see but the live data tool would show you if the AFR sensor is responsive. Just remember they don’t oscillate like traditional 02 sensors low to high etc. Best of luck.
Possible causes
Faulty Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor 1
Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor 1 harness is open or shorted
Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor 1 circuit poor electrical connectionRead more: https://www.autocodes.com/p1157_honda.html
Could be catching. You should jack up rear of truck up off ground safely and have someone press brakes while you inspect the rear wheels to see if brakes are applying or is only on side and if brakes are catching. Could be getting caught if piece is not right. Hard to say without being there as always. Check out rockauto under brake adjuster repair kit.
You said your hazard lights flash so the “hazard relay” is not bad. Most likely your turn signal switch itself is bad. You may have wiring issue. You can look up wiring diagram to test for signals coming out of the switch at appropriate times but that switch may be hard to find.
Most parts stores can tell you that based on car description and engine. If not call dealer and talk tonparts department. Lastly rock auto.com list oem options