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I fixed mine as above. Worked pretty well. Took rotor off for more access. Didnt bother with grease as I had already over greased it. I gave the tape a little stretch and it fused to its self forming around the boot.
Are you sure you have belt routed correctly? Did you get new belt.. right belt? Pulley size difference? Something changed, the question is what. On most models you will put belt on alternator and water pump already and catch slack with tensioner. I know some are tightened with adjustment screws on the alternator. Their should be belt adjustment somewhere. Good luck
Changed mine on a 3.1 in photo. A lot of BS to get down to the lower gasket. Check fuel pressure on rail with actual reading. Check Spark with true HEI spark tester. Check Compression with gauge. etc… its a lot of steps but you have to narrow down problem to fix. This internet forum wont magically guess the problem but can only help narrow in a directions.
You can try starting with starter fluid. Check your firing order from coils to correct cylinders. Did you plug back in injectors under the upper etc. Please post back if you get more detailsMost of the time, the engine oil will go to rad due to pressure difference of oil and coolant. As far as replacing intake gasket, that is up to you. If there is minimal in the coolant, alot of people just drive it. I dont know that is what your problem is however I know about every 3.1 or 3.8, i have seen has that problem. I changed mine and it took about 7 hours due to engine congestion.
Hard to say without seeing it. Those cars are known for the bad intake gasket issues. Watch for antifreeze in oil.
You have to start original pressure testing again. Find out if you have fuel pressure. Then if not, find out why not. It is not uncommon to get new after market fuel pumps that are bad.
Final note, this was not specific to your model but same code on another GM model. Just trying to help start a direction for you.
http://www.autocats.ws/manual/chevrolet/tis0211/en/documents_2011/Cruze/SM-T/92222518.EN.html
Give this a read over and see what you think. Sounds like could be an open/ short in the ignition switch or its wiring. Best of luck.
Thanks Evil.
I have read a similar thing with the coils being problematic after 100K. I will attempt to see if I can find a misfire counter 1st and have him drive it with the vibration. after that, the 1 coil switch is time consuming but definitely cost savings on the motorcraft coil overs.Check this link out
http://www.sailmagazine.com/diy/engines/test-replace-fuel-gauge-sending-unit/
Good wiring diagram should tell you which is which to test further up line. Proceed with caution and dont do anything that will blow PCM