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have you cleaned the battery terminals. ive had 2 cars, a jeep, and my truck all have idle problems because the battery terminals and connections were corroded. take off both connections, and use either a battery terminal cleaner, or sand paper, or a wire brush and a dremel. make sure they shine inside the connections, and outside the terminals.
i’ve got a scan tool that scans all makes and models from 85-2003. new it’s about $200, Ebay had it for $50 because the older model chevy cord was missing. the software for the updates however, are about $100 a pop. its an autoxray EZ 1000 i believe
Quoted From outdoorsman310:
put a slit in the screw with a dremel and use a big flathead screwdriver to get it out if you vant do that there are drill out screw removers and some other kinds but ive never had any of those screw removers work for me
i tried this, but the screwdriver just slips out, i put my truck back together so i could still drive in the meantime. i really dont need a shop to charge me $400 just to have one pulley replaced.
most of the additives are extreme dosses of the chemicals used in gas or oil. the only ones i trust is, seafome 1/3 1/3 1/3 right before i change my oil on a relatively empty tank of gas, then adding Zmax engine and gas formulas after the oil is changed. it is pricier, but it has made dramatic improvements to my truck.
you might be getting the wrong alternator or the battery is too big. some cars had the alternators switched halfway into a production year. for instance my truck has a 90 watt alt, but halfway through the year the switched them to 60 watts.
ok, there is no suspension problems, the tie rod ends are good, the steering rods are good. the only thing wrong is my aftermarket rims are not seated properly, and i still need to repack the bearings. but other than that, i should be good. however i do need to find something to take out stripped screws, the idler pulley is getting on my nerves.
1994 f150 XLT 5.8l 2wd. 212k miles and it still runs strong.
it’s a 1994 f150 xlt 2wd 5.8l
i would say about 3 out of the 4″ of play is the bearings, i hit a curb and have not had the chance to inspect everything sence but the wheels are loose, and where loose before the insedent. i am trying to save a little money because i owe a shop for something i dont have knowledge of how to do so they ripped me off. yes it is a RWD truck. Erics video is a perfect match for my truck.
thanks guys, the earliest i can get at it is tuesday. but i will not be able to fix anything for a while unfortunately.
Rockauto.com has everything from zip ties to engine blocks and transmissions.
i say we make a push for a self sustaining Air powered car. both France and Australia have them in prototype.
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