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i usually go to Autozone because i have found their customer service is better. but what i cant find there i order from Rockauto.com
It’s 90ish% fixed. the new bearings are in and my steering wheel offers some resistance now when i turn, (most of the play is in the steering column, when the key is out of the ignition it still has slop) my only problem now it, my front drivers side brake will not retract, it stays in the open position. not bad enough that i cant drive, but enough that it will wear it down alot faster than normal.
Quoted From dreamer2355:
Awesome! Its a pretty straight forward job in replacing those tapered bearings. Id recommend replacing the cotter pin with a new one also.
ya, i went out and picked some up, unfortunately, the the other bearings are both outer bearings so i have to go and swap one out
there is also a way to test the wire to see if it is blown, as soon as i get home i will post a link on how to check. all you need is a voltmeter like the ones found at home depot.
Depending on where you are, i would not mind working for you!
if the building does not have any Air conditioning, you can actually but a portable ac unit for small shops. and i would recommend getting a Complete code scanner system.
Quoted From 619DioFan:
Dreamer makes a great point regarding buying the “swag ” eric has for sale. thought I would throw out another suggestion – There are currently 1700 members here , and I know times are tough -BUT – suppose each of us were to send 5.00 dollars ( which is really not much IMO ) well that would be – 8500.00 ! more then enough for eric to get – (1) a lift , ( 2 ) a bearing press ( 3 ) a bigger compressor. just a thought but really folks – for all the help he gives he sure deserves some from us.
+40! Eric, start up a paypal donation thingy!
i always give a link to Eric’s youtube on Yahoo answers. it really helps people out to have a video to go with people’s instructions.
most vehicles spit out white smoke on cold days, its just water vapor meeting hot exhaust from the cold air,
i keep my 5.8 clean with seafome. but your O2 sensor might be bad as well. too much fuel is a common O2 gone bad.
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
I see plenty of room for a hammer and punch but that said I know it may seem like more work but why not remove the assembly from the car and work with it on the bench?
because i would have to take apart half of the engine to get it out, there is a bar holding it in the back that is buried under the throttle body and the intake manifold. and the dumb bolt/screw thing took the point right off of my punch, i have to go out and get a new one.
Quoted From Trcustoms719:
If it does ABS and airbag thats a great deal!
It will scan them, i can run a full system diagnostics on my truck with it, i just crank the engine and it overrides the ecu. Ie, it reads codes as they happen, not what the computer has in store.
And it’s an “Autox-ray Ez 2000”
I unfortunately do not have the right connections on my comp to update it. most older computers have the connection though.
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
This video shows how I deal with stripped screws, I don’t often use air tools but you can do the exact same thing with a hammer and punch.
that would work, if i had more than 3inches of room to work with, once it comes off, im not putting a screw on it, its got enough clearance that i can fit a bolt to it.
Quick question, everywhere i go, i get a different answer. i need to know which way the dumb thing unscrews(i have not put any pressure either way so the treads are not damaged). it’s the Idler puly screw, not the tensioner, not the tensioner pulley. the idler pulley.
