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And down goes solo. Had a shop check it out and the timing cover is bad, total cost for it is over a grand, time to sell it and move on
Good news, its not an oil leak!! Bad news, its coolant. apparently when my water pump blew out last week it broke the plate behind it so its just pouring coolant everywhere. great.
my truck had a problem with this untill i replaced the Speed sensor, and instrument panel. and even now i still have speedometer issues, but the shifting is fine for me now.
ya, ebay has one for $145, but i hope that the pull-apart yard i go to will still have the one for $75. on another note, does anyone know how to get the mileage on one of those to read the actual mileage,(the other only reads 150k the truck is 213K)
my truck runs smoother now that i droped a K&N box filter into my truck, although i did relocate the intake pipe to the wheel well, (it originally sat right above the radiator). so the rotation of the tires actually push a little more air in .
my truck runs smoother now that i droped a K&N box filter into my truck, although i did relocate the intake pipe to the wheel well, (it originally sat right above the radiator). so the rotation of the tires actually push a little more air in .
get a windshield visor, since you cant legally tint it, when you park, just set it up and it reflects the heat away.
have you tried seafoam? i know its not generally used for this type of problem, but its non-corrosive and it is designed to break up engine gunk. also Zmax will actually help lubricate the engine so that it does not need as much oil. just dont use both of these at the same time.
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
Lets just say you’re about the 50th person to point that out today so rest assured I’ll be making a video about those headlights and the different ways to handle that situation both the commercial and ‘home’ remedies that have been suggested. To be honest I don’t think there’s any hope for the left one though as it’s cracked and the ‘yellowing’ is actually on the inside from what I can see, doesn’t mean we can’t trash it trying a bunch of different stuff before I swap it out though. T)
trust me when i say, nothing works. the only products that remotely work are the ones that have the “clear coat” to cover the lens. and thats only for a few weeks, after you drive in the rain, its back to the crappy state. you will eventually need to replace them.
ok, took it to ford, they said the trans is fine, (the one thing that wont kill a ford trans, lol) they replaced my speed censor and the trans shifts fine now, but the speedometer wont read past 50Mph. they say i need a new Instrument cluster(i found a used one for $75). could there be anything else im not finding?
there are quite a few 5.8l(351W) on E-bay. if you can get a running one out of a F-150 its cheap and really reliable. the only bad part is the transmissions for those engines arn’t that great. which is why most people go wit the chevy 350. but if you can afford a performance trans for the 351 it would be a tank. but if you want a manual trans you would have to go with the 5.0(302) small block. makes just about the same power but lacks in torque.
ok, so iv’e been told not to do a flush on it. ive got air in the system but it no longer acts up. (i just drove it 20 miles without a problem) but now its throwing a speed sensor code and a trans separator circuit code. am i safe to get the service or no. i can do the other 2 but i need to know if changing the fluid will make it into a paper weight
i just had the radiator replaced and i replaced the thermostat about 3k miles after that, no sign of trans fluid in the coolant. i did notice that the trans only acts up when its warm. meaning i can drive for about 10 min before it craps out. i will check the fluid tomorrow to see bubbles. there where none that i could see before hand. and how would i drain the trans to get the pan off. i cat see any drain plug.