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sorry guys i have other post i just bought this car a lil while ago its popping codes 1)running lean 2)misefire #2 and 3)bad catalyst just trying to figure everything out has new air n fuel filter plugs wires swapped coil pack and iac valve from wrecked mustang trying to save from replacing unneeded stuff runs the same as ever. and it drives great nice and smooth cant feel no misfire but at an idle in D its def misfiring and idling rough shift into N and smooths out so i am at a loss uugggghhhhh
ok well why am i misfiring? i used motorcraft plugs gapped right autozone duralast wires with lifetime warrenty now the coil pack i just swapped outta junk yard car but do you think cylinder 2 on both are bad? besides that im guessing imm check the injestors
the car starts and runs great but in idle on R and D its idles rough it is poping up bad catalyst bank 2, bank 2 running lean,and misfire cylinder 2. replaced plugs,wires and swapped out the coil pack and iac valve from a wreck 3.8l mustang (ihave a 3.8l 1997 cougar xr7) and the sames codes have popped up soo nothings changed i am trying to see about replacing or if there is a way to run a straight pipe but im at a lost??????
HELP ME
Quoted From jhaggadone:
has anyone used this app yet it looks cool and useful for being a $5 app and just have to buy an obdII bluetooth adaptor umm but give me some insight guys, garbage or gold?
oops hers a link to the android site to start youtube has some too
i have pics of the rims i paint on my mustang (in my profilr garage pics) they were 2006 bullit gt rims they were grey painted them black with dupla-color rim paint in a spray paint can and dupla-color clear coat i just taped off tire and chrome lip sanded down the rims washed and cleaned them then started painting did 3-4 coats of black and 3-4 coats of clear and let cure for a few days before i drove on them held up great for 2 years before i upgraded to 2011 gt rims but all in all cost me a weekend of light labor and about $25-30 bucks in the paint
oh nevermind found how to put before during and after pics on here
ok so here is what was wrong the blend door actuator gear wheel broke teeth off and the clicking was it trying to open for the heat but kept skipping pretty easy to access three little screws hold it in i put an allen wrench into the flap hole and flap still functions so i opened it and wedged a foam piece in there to hold it open until i get the replacement actuator shipped in but easy fix all in all so thanks for all the support
here is the best priced replacment for my 2007 xlt 4.0 manual controls
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RNB-6 … bmodel|XLT
ok i think i found a easy fix not quite sure though check out this link and tell me what you guys think this is just the tech page that describes my problem well if u go back to the home page you can get reveiws and videos
http://www.heatertreater.net/Ford%20Exp … 0Data.html
Quoted From Rick:
Before buying the heater treater kit, definitely check if your problem is the blend door vs the actuator itself (or any of the other stuff mentioned above). I did this three years ago and don’t remember very well, but I was able to remove the actuator by taking off the knee bolster (below the steering column and the center control panel cover and using a 1/4 flex drive with a small socket to access the hard-to-reach screw. I tested the actuator by keeping it plugged in and putting some pressure on the output while operating it. You can also carefully disassemble it and see the stripped plastic gears inside. You can then manually turn the blend door and see if it operates or not. The actuator itself can be purchased separately from the dealer (I’ve heard there’s and aftermarket part too.)
thanks rick thats my plan of attack imma jump on it tomm my poor wife has been taking it back and fourth to work in this cold but she has tomm off so im hoping just bad gears and not entire flap which alot of post ive found is people bitching about the gears no real fixes lol but thanks for everyones post and yes dreamer i will post updates tomm
well the clicking noise is just a constant click click click click click click click click doesnt stop
Quoted From EndSupremacy:
Check the following:
Use of incorrect grade of fuel
Oil contamination
Fuel Pressure too high
Heated Oxygen Sensor improperly connected
Damaged exhaust system component
Faulty ECT sensor
Faulty Heated Oxygen sensor (check this last).If you check all of these and they’re good or they;re not and you fix them, then put your scanner back on and clear the codes. If the codes come back (doesn’t have to come back immediately, sometimes it will come back a day or 2 later), clear it again and disconnect the battery for 30 mins. Then reconnect it and start it up. You should be code free from then on.
how do i check for oil contamination?
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
Step 1 for me would be to do a power balance test to see if you can nail down the effected cylinder(s). I know you say you got a code for cylinder #2 but in my experience it’s still worth going back and checking to verify that it’s actually cylinder #2 that is the problem as I’ve seen more than one occasion where that wasn’t the case and it was another cylinder that as a problem. Here’s a link to a video that I did on this.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAOmUjAjNjE
Once you find the effected cylinder(s) the next step is to find out the cause of the misfire, is it spark, fuel, or engine mechanical that’s the cause? Through a process of elimination you will find the cause and then be able to come up with a repair but first do the power balance and see what you’ve got and we’ll go from there.
well when i replace the off brand wires they had which look farely new and plugs i havent had the misfire code pop back up and the motor has alot more power so i think i got past that part now its just my P0430 code popping up and it still has the rough idle tomm imma try the carb cleaner vacuum test and after that imma check for a inferred thremoter so i can check the cats so i will check back in once i get to that piont