Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
shifting super hard but only at times…
ya car has 115k on it – dang, just out of the warranty period.
Some of the other tech serv bulletins say it could just be the solenoids as well, however they say you might as well go in and replace it at that point…
I haven’t ever done a honda AT transmission – so I’m not sure what I’m going to end up doing.you are going to laugh –
I FINALLY Figured out just what in the heck was creating that noise. Let me say that I couldnt reproduce the sound by bouncing/shaking the car, etc.
I finally jacked the car back up and went under with my pry bar, and wiggled/moved things in the general area that and found it. It was the toe adjuster bolt. It had worked its way loose, which means I didnt tighten it enough originally – most likely. Anyway I tightened it and bam kazam its fixed.It’s been a long weekend, I also replaced the upper and lower ball joints on one side. Had one lower ball joint fail, and decided to just do them all while I was at it. It really wasn’t too bad.
I also tried to get my wheel bearings out. TRIED. uh, i really think you need a press to get off 1998 honda civic lx front wheel bearings…Eric YOU HAVE to do a video on this, I do not understand how to get that wheel bearing/hub separated otherwise. Wheel bearings aren’t bad, yet, but I have this feeling that someday in the next couple of years I’m giong to have to replace those (135k miles).
Took it all apart, wiped off the antisieze, put it back together. Test drive. Same problem. Sound exists when I bank or turn the car hard left. Sounds possibly like the trailing arm sliding on the bushing…Sounds like but it isn’t…I have to bank sharp left though. I cannot reproduce the sound with it parked and me bouncing or pushing the car around.
I will either go get a new part, or try to put the old one back in…to see if that fixes the problem. YOUR ADVICE OR OPINION?
Ya, when it is all fixed and working, I’ll take it in for an alignment…I first have to do the upper and lower ball joints in the front as well…older car needing some suspension parts replaced.
Thats right the control arm bushing has a long and short side for bolt attachment to the frame.
Yes, I made a mark on it to get it close to the original, so the holes would line up as well as the pitch of it.
So – still not sure what to do – at this point i’m thinking to take it off and wipe off the antiseaze, then reinstall, to see if that makes a difference.
I don’t think it’s the upper/lower control arm bushing that’s bad – i didn’t really touch those, except to detatch for a moment.
It’s attached to stblzr attached to the control arm? Not sure what it’s called…that could be making the squeek now…possibly…dunno for sure.The one on the far left of the picture:
I would replace the caliper. It’s probably abt 15 bucks or so. And there are two bolts, generally that hold it on and the brake line – thats it. Just remember to use a flare nut wrench (Invest in a set if you don’t have one) to break the brake line loose – learned that lesson the hard way once or twice – if you round over the break line nut, uh its easier to just do it right the first time.
Once in a while, I’ve seen where if the piston moves in or out on one side too far it will release a little fluid. However it generally means the seals are bad in there…you can also buy a rebuild kit, but I’d just buy a whole new one, they aren’t much different in price / dollars.
For brake bleeding, you dont need anything fancy…don’t get talked into buying the mityvac kit (garbage, imo), you can make your own for penny’s or just buy the dirt cheap otc junk one for 7 bucks…You’ll need someone to press the brakes for you, for bleeding the line, but its really really easy to do.
Good Luck!