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[quote=”roywrench22″ post=38931]You cant have grinding going into reverse unless your transmission mainshaft is spinning.
With the clutch fully depressed the mainshaft should be completely at rest, unless you are rolling. The only way you can spin the mainshaft with the clutch fully depressed is if the clutch disk doesn’t completely disengage from the flywheel and pressure plate it is sandwiched between.[/quote]I agree with you. On a flat surface, when I release a little clutch pedal at 1st gear, the car could move slowly.
Here are the two videos of shifting gears.
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BuIG1G1d7zc[/video]
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BxqsimLMC00[/video]
Here are the two videos of shifting gears.
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BuIG1G1d7zc[/video]
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BxqsimLMC00[/video]
How can I know the book time of what kinds of repair work?
Based on “Splashonda’s” experience above. Should I try starting with changing the hydraulic fluid of the clutch first? If so, what type of fluid I need. I don’t think it is mentioned on the owner’s manual. I got a third party manual – Haynes manual for 1986 ~ 1996 Sidekick and Samurai. It seems that it doesn’t cover the hydraulic clutch. Someone said that hydraulic fluid of clutch is the same as the brake fluid. But I am not sure about it.
How can I know the book time of what kinds of repair work?
Based on “Splashonda’s” experience above. Should I try starting with changing the hydraulic fluid of the clutch first? If so, what type of fluid I need. I don’t think it is mentioned on the owner’s manual. I got a third party manual – Haynes manual for 1986 ~ 1996 Sidekick and Samurai. It seems that it doesn’t cover the hydraulic clutch. Someone said that hydraulic fluid of clutch is the same as the brake fluid. But I am not sure about it.
$390, that is expensive. I don’t think changing the master and slave cylinder would be longer than an hour. Actually, I think it should be done within 30 minutes; otherwise, they are cheating your money. About the labour cost, I saw the video of changing timing belt of Volvo S60. The video lasts 24 minutes and almost includes every procedure. So the estimate time should be no longer than 40 minutes to change the timing belt for S60. But, other car may require more time due to different structure. I will check some youtube video out to see how long it should take before going to the garage. BTW, the average labour cost in car repair garage in the middle of US is around $90 per hour.
I have the pdf owner’s manual for 95 Suzuki Sidekick JX Sport. It mentions GL-4 fluid for transmission.
$390, that is expensive. I don’t think changing the master and slave cylinder would be longer than an hour. Actually, I think it should be done within 30 minutes; otherwise, they are cheating your money. About the labour cost, I saw the video of changing timing belt of Volvo S60. The video lasts 24 minutes and almost includes every procedure. So the estimate time should be no longer than 40 minutes to change the timing belt for S60. But, other car may require more time due to different structure. I will check some youtube video out to see how long it should take before going to the garage. BTW, the average labour cost in car repair garage in the middle of US is around $90 per hour.
I have the pdf owner’s manual for 95 Suzuki Sidekick JX Sport. It mentions GL-4 fluid for transmission.
[quote=”Splashonda” post=35952]Hello! I have a similar problem in my 1997 Suzuki Vitara (European Sidekick)! Just for curiosity sake, it’s a 2.0 intercooled turbodiesel!
First, I would like to tell you that if you engage 1st and then 2nd and then reverse, your reverse will engage just fine. Mine also grinded a lot, but since I started doing this it never grinded anymore!:)
Now, speaking of the problem itself, it started out by 2nd being a little hesitant to engage. It progressed so that 2nd gear was REALLY hard to engage when cold. By this time, 1st was also dificult to engage when hot and when I shifted from 4th to 3rd cold, 3rd was very relunctant to engage. Since it’s my parents car, I had to convince them to repair the problem, or else the sincronizers could go in an instant and the expense would be much bigger. I sent the car to my local mechanic and he replaced the clutch master cilinder (the fluid on the old one was black… change it regularly folks!). For a month or two 2nd and 3rd gear were fine and smooth to engange, but 1st continued to be reluctant to engage when hot, unless like you say, the car is moving really slowly!
Now, funny thing. This all this started when I asked my dealer (Suzuki dealer btw) to change the transmission oil amongst other things. He changed it for a 75w-90 GL-4 like the manual says, but of a brand I’m not really a fan of (portuguese oil company – GALP). For a few weeks it shifted like a hot knife through butter, but then came the notchyness… tired of all of this and not wanting to damage my transmission any further I’m going to order Redline MT-90 to see if the problem really was the transmission oil or I have something wrong with the clutch.
My car has 208500km (130.000 miles) and unless it was not specified in the recipts, the transmission oil and clutch fluid were not changed in 200.000km….:sick:[/quote]
really nice to share experience. please keep updating your progress on transmission fluid. You experience really helps. I might get Master and Slave cylinder changed. How many hours will it take to change them? so I can estimate the labour cost.
[quote=”Splashonda” post=35952]Hello! I have a similar problem in my 1997 Suzuki Vitara (European Sidekick)! Just for curiosity sake, it’s a 2.0 intercooled turbodiesel!
First, I would like to tell you that if you engage 1st and then 2nd and then reverse, your reverse will engage just fine. Mine also grinded a lot, but since I started doing this it never grinded anymore!:)
Now, speaking of the problem itself, it started out by 2nd being a little hesitant to engage. It progressed so that 2nd gear was REALLY hard to engage when cold. By this time, 1st was also dificult to engage when hot and when I shifted from 4th to 3rd cold, 3rd was very relunctant to engage. Since it’s my parents car, I had to convince them to repair the problem, or else the sincronizers could go in an instant and the expense would be much bigger. I sent the car to my local mechanic and he replaced the clutch master cilinder (the fluid on the old one was black… change it regularly folks!). For a month or two 2nd and 3rd gear were fine and smooth to engange, but 1st continued to be reluctant to engage when hot, unless like you say, the car is moving really slowly!
Now, funny thing. This all this started when I asked my dealer (Suzuki dealer btw) to change the transmission oil amongst other things. He changed it for a 75w-90 GL-4 like the manual says, but of a brand I’m not really a fan of (portuguese oil company – GALP). For a few weeks it shifted like a hot knife through butter, but then came the notchyness… tired of all of this and not wanting to damage my transmission any further I’m going to order Redline MT-90 to see if the problem really was the transmission oil or I have something wrong with the clutch.
My car has 208500km (130.000 miles) and unless it was not specified in the recipts, the transmission oil and clutch fluid were not changed in 200.000km….:sick:[/quote]
really nice to share experience. please keep updating your progress on transmission fluid. You experience really helps. I might get Master and Slave cylinder changed. How many hours will it take to change them? so I can estimate the labour cost.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=35837]You may have had the fluid changed when you bought it but was it the CORRECT fluid. Nothing screws up a manual transmission more that putting in the wrong type of fluid. Check your owners manual to see what should be in there and then see if you have the same thing in the transmission perhaps by pulling the fill plug and dipping your finger in the fluid. If you’re in doubt change it with the correct fluid, it can’t hurt anything really.[/quote]
My friend changed fluid of transmission, transfer case and front, rear differential. I have 85% confidence to say he used the correct fluid GL-4(as mentioned on owner’s manual) for transmission and transfer case. In terms of front and rear differential, it should be GL-5(Hypoid gear oil), I remember he added GL-5 to one of differentials fully, and the other one is a little bit short of GL-5 and he added about 20% GL-4 instead (mix 80% GL-5 and 20% GL-4). Please tell me how bad it would be to differentials.
The transmission issue had already existed before i brought it. The ex-owner used to “knock” and push hardly and rudely on the stick to shift into 1st gear. I don’t know how long it had already lasted.
I don’t know whether the semi-linkage point (partially engage, like stick-shift driver starts car on a hill) of the clutch is too low or not. When I release the clutch pedal about 15% of the total free range, the car could move on a flat surface. This leads me think about it might be clutch is not fully disengaged. I guess the semi-linkage point of clutch is probably adjustable. If so, probably try that to see if it could improve.
Thanks a lot.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=35837]You may have had the fluid changed when you bought it but was it the CORRECT fluid. Nothing screws up a manual transmission more that putting in the wrong type of fluid. Check your owners manual to see what should be in there and then see if you have the same thing in the transmission perhaps by pulling the fill plug and dipping your finger in the fluid. If you’re in doubt change it with the correct fluid, it can’t hurt anything really.[/quote]
My friend changed fluid of transmission, transfer case and front, rear differential. I have 85% confidence to say he used the correct fluid GL-4(as mentioned on owner’s manual) for transmission and transfer case. In terms of front and rear differential, it should be GL-5(Hypoid gear oil), I remember he added GL-5 to one of differentials fully, and the other one is a little bit short of GL-5 and he added about 20% GL-4 instead (mix 80% GL-5 and 20% GL-4). Please tell me how bad it would be to differentials.
The transmission issue had already existed before i brought it. The ex-owner used to “knock” and push hardly and rudely on the stick to shift into 1st gear. I don’t know how long it had already lasted.
I don’t know whether the semi-linkage point (partially engage, like stick-shift driver starts car on a hill) of the clutch is too low or not. When I release the clutch pedal about 15% of the total free range, the car could move on a flat surface. This leads me think about it might be clutch is not fully disengaged. I guess the semi-linkage point of clutch is probably adjustable. If so, probably try that to see if it could improve.
Thanks a lot.