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  • in reply to: Update: 97AcuraRL, OE Coolant, P0401 EGR, AC belt #502974
    jenaflexjenaflex
    Participant

      Update:

      3. Acura Anti-freeze

      As I mentioned, no proof shows the 2nd owner’s service on this car and the 1st owner did a TB and water pump change at Honda dealer. So, if I assume they used honda brand anti-freeze coolant when TB and water pump service, now it is Honda coolant in the radiator and reservoir. The coolant in radiator looks green while the coolant in the reservoir looks a bit darker green. I was told by local honda dealer in my place that Honda Type II coolant is blue, which doesn’t match the coolant in my car. Now the coolant in the reservoir is close to MIN.

      Is the old type honda coolant green? (TB and water pump service in 2011 in Florida)
      Can I mix the old green with type II blue?
      If I do the coolant service myself, do I have to flush out most of the old coolant instead of just Drain and Fill?
      Do I have to use Honda typeII only?

      in reply to: Update: 97AcuraRL, OE Coolant, P0401 EGR, AC belt #504672
      jenaflexjenaflex
      Participant

        Update:

        3. Acura Anti-freeze

        As I mentioned, no proof shows the 2nd owner’s service on this car and the 1st owner did a TB and water pump change at Honda dealer. So, if I assume they used honda brand anti-freeze coolant when TB and water pump service, now it is Honda coolant in the radiator and reservoir. The coolant in radiator looks green while the coolant in the reservoir looks a bit darker green. I was told by local honda dealer in my place that Honda Type II coolant is blue, which doesn’t match the coolant in my car. Now the coolant in the reservoir is close to MIN.

        Is the old type honda coolant green? (TB and water pump service in 2011 in Florida)
        Can I mix the old green with type II blue?
        If I do the coolant service myself, do I have to flush out most of the old coolant instead of just Drain and Fill?
        Do I have to use Honda typeII only?

        in reply to: Update: 97AcuraRL, OE Coolant, P0401 EGR, AC belt #501086
        jenaflexjenaflex
        Participant

          The pulley on the ac should spin freely with no power to the ac ”

          You mean the outer belt pulley or the inner pulley with clutch on it?

          I know the EGR passages gunk is most likely the problem. If I ignore the EGR gunk, will it kill cat convertor or other stuffs?

          Can I run 89 instead of 91 premium?

          in reply to: Update: 97AcuraRL, OE Coolant, P0401 EGR, AC belt #502775
          jenaflexjenaflex
          Participant

            The pulley on the ac should spin freely with no power to the ac ”

            You mean the outer belt pulley or the inner pulley with clutch on it?

            I know the EGR passages gunk is most likely the problem. If I ignore the EGR gunk, will it kill cat convertor or other stuffs?

            Can I run 89 instead of 91 premium?

            in reply to: 96 Suzuki Sidekick Hydraulic Clutch Issue #481564
            jenaflexjenaflex
            Participant

              [quote=”roywrench22″ post=40270]If it was mine, I would look into converting the flywheel/clutch to a conventional set up. I haven’t had one of these dual mass set ups in my hands yet, but they look like an over complicated mess. I understand why they put them in, but they seem to be pron to failure. My understanding is you have to replace all the parts including the flywheel anyway. Maybe someone makes a conversion kit for your truck. One of my neighbors converted his Dodge ram diesel with a kit he got from a company called Fleet Pride.
              I would also check your bell housing alignment while it’s apart. Ii doesn’t take long to check.[/quote]

              I suspect the pilot bearing most. But, whatever failed in bell-housing or transy, it cost a lot of money to take the them out. I bought it as serval hundred bucks and it’s KBB value is around $26k.

              in reply to: 96 Suzuki Sidekick Hydraulic Clutch Issue #482132
              jenaflexjenaflex
              Participant

                [quote=”roywrench22″ post=40270]If it was mine, I would look into converting the flywheel/clutch to a conventional set up. I haven’t had one of these dual mass set ups in my hands yet, but they look like an over complicated mess. I understand why they put them in, but they seem to be pron to failure. My understanding is you have to replace all the parts including the flywheel anyway. Maybe someone makes a conversion kit for your truck. One of my neighbors converted his Dodge ram diesel with a kit he got from a company called Fleet Pride.
                I would also check your bell housing alignment while it’s apart. Ii doesn’t take long to check.[/quote]

                I suspect the pilot bearing most. But, whatever failed in bell-housing or transy, it cost a lot of money to take the them out. I bought it as serval hundred bucks and it’s KBB value is around $26k.

                in reply to: 96 Suzuki Sidekick Hydraulic Clutch Issue #482109
                jenaflexjenaflex
                Participant

                  [quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=39910]Up to the point where you said you had a dual mass flywheel I was going to say linkage even though you say it’s in spec. As you pointed out you don’t have a slipping problem and that would be indicative of a clutch issue. A shifting issue like you describe is a release issue most times. With a dual mass set up however it may be that it’s not initialized properly. If that’s the case it won’t release properly and possibly cause the problem that you’re having. Since you’ve already addressed the hydraulics then it may be time to remove the transmission and get a look at everything.[/quote]

                  Mine might not be hydraulics issue. if so, sad~~~. I check the stroke of the slave cylinder, and it looks like it met magic 3/4 inch stroke but I haven’t got equipment to jack my car and measure the stroke of slave cylinder (3/4 inch is a unconfirmed rumor, but lost of single proofs). When I told my friend hold the clutch pedal for a minutes, slave cylinder doesn’t creep back. I think that is the proof of good hydraulics.

                  [video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=64fHmFACcSA[/video]

                  in reply to: 96 Suzuki Sidekick Hydraulic Clutch Issue #481542
                  jenaflexjenaflex
                  Participant

                    [quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=39910]Up to the point where you said you had a dual mass flywheel I was going to say linkage even though you say it’s in spec. As you pointed out you don’t have a slipping problem and that would be indicative of a clutch issue. A shifting issue like you describe is a release issue most times. With a dual mass set up however it may be that it’s not initialized properly. If that’s the case it won’t release properly and possibly cause the problem that you’re having. Since you’ve already addressed the hydraulics then it may be time to remove the transmission and get a look at everything.[/quote]

                    Mine might not be hydraulics issue. if so, sad~~~. I check the stroke of the slave cylinder, and it looks like it met magic 3/4 inch stroke but I haven’t got equipment to jack my car and measure the stroke of slave cylinder (3/4 inch is a unconfirmed rumor, but lost of single proofs). When I told my friend hold the clutch pedal for a minutes, slave cylinder doesn’t creep back. I think that is the proof of good hydraulics.

                    [video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=64fHmFACcSA[/video]

                    in reply to: Tire Pressure and Tire Mounting Direction #480781
                    jenaflexjenaflex
                    Participant

                      [quote=”blacK20″ post=39864]Some tires with softer sidewalls will tend to bulge more visually. I’d like to say that it is perfectly safe as long as it’s inflated to the placard specs. Personally I like to inflate to a few psi over spec, but that is personal preference. Tire pressure spec is determined mainly from the gross vehicle weight. Heavier vehicles generally call for more pressure and vise versa.

                      Directional tires must be mounted in the direction of rotation due to its tread pattern. Mounting them in the reverse direction of rotation will cause severe hydroplaning, undesired handling characteristics, and sometimes elevated tire noise. Directional tires cannot be rotated side to side without remounting and flipping the tire as you will find out.

                      Tires that are marked inner and outer must be mounted in that orientation. This kind of tire usually have specially engineered tread patterns and compounds so that the inner section of tread excels in straight line traction and the outer excels in cornering grip. You can rotate these tires to whichever corner you like as long as they are mounted to the wheel with the correct inner/outer.[/quote]

                      My tires have neither marked inner and outer sign nor direction arrow on the sidewall. I think they are not asymmetrical, not directional; am I correct? Does it mean my tires could be mounted in either direction on the rim? Usually, people mount the side with DOT number with manufacture date outer. The guy of Walmart tire mounted my two new tires on the rim in this way, but didn’t mounted my old one in this way.

                      In terms of the tire pressure, the specs sticker shows 23 psi. However, 23 psi is correct for original equipped tires in 1996. The tire in 1996 is different from today’s tire. I think the majority of today’s tires around $100 is Low Rolling Resistance Tires (LLR tires). So, Viva 2 and my two old tires are most likely LLR tires. That is why I think 23 psi might NOT be correct for today’s tires.

                      in reply to: Tire Pressure and Tire Mounting Direction #481343
                      jenaflexjenaflex
                      Participant

                        [quote=”blacK20″ post=39864]Some tires with softer sidewalls will tend to bulge more visually. I’d like to say that it is perfectly safe as long as it’s inflated to the placard specs. Personally I like to inflate to a few psi over spec, but that is personal preference. Tire pressure spec is determined mainly from the gross vehicle weight. Heavier vehicles generally call for more pressure and vise versa.

                        Directional tires must be mounted in the direction of rotation due to its tread pattern. Mounting them in the reverse direction of rotation will cause severe hydroplaning, undesired handling characteristics, and sometimes elevated tire noise. Directional tires cannot be rotated side to side without remounting and flipping the tire as you will find out.

                        Tires that are marked inner and outer must be mounted in that orientation. This kind of tire usually have specially engineered tread patterns and compounds so that the inner section of tread excels in straight line traction and the outer excels in cornering grip. You can rotate these tires to whichever corner you like as long as they are mounted to the wheel with the correct inner/outer.[/quote]

                        My tires have neither marked inner and outer sign nor direction arrow on the sidewall. I think they are not asymmetrical, not directional; am I correct? Does it mean my tires could be mounted in either direction on the rim? Usually, people mount the side with DOT number with manufacture date outer. The guy of Walmart tire mounted my two new tires on the rim in this way, but didn’t mounted my old one in this way.

                        In terms of the tire pressure, the specs sticker shows 23 psi. However, 23 psi is correct for original equipped tires in 1996. The tire in 1996 is different from today’s tire. I think the majority of today’s tires around $100 is Low Rolling Resistance Tires (LLR tires). So, Viva 2 and my two old tires are most likely LLR tires. That is why I think 23 psi might NOT be correct for today’s tires.

                        in reply to: Tire Pressure and Tire Mounting Direction #480775
                        jenaflexjenaflex
                        Participant

                          I have edited it. Which part doesn’t make sense?

                          in reply to: Tire Pressure and Tire Mounting Direction #481331
                          jenaflexjenaflex
                          Participant

                            I have edited it. Which part doesn’t make sense?

                            in reply to: 96 Suzuki Sidekick Hydraulic Clutch Issue #478933
                            jenaflexjenaflex
                            Participant

                              [quote=”roywrench22″ post=38937]It shows up as hard shifts on a new car. As the pilot bushing or bearing wears the end of the input shaft is no longer supported and the disk can flop around with the clutch depressed. I’m not insisting this is the case with this car. It’s just one possibility. It could also be rust on the input shaft spline, or some hydraulic issue with the slave cylinder or clutch master cylinder. The bottom line is the clutch is not disengaging.
                              If you want to learn about bell housing misalignment look at dialing in a bell housing on you tube.[/quote]

                              My car is old, 96 sidekick JX sprot 1.8L (totally different car from 1.6L sidekick or tracker). It is the pre-2.0L and V6 Grand Vitara. My car is at 107k miles, but dusty, some rusty. The ex-owner sit the car in the garage for a year before sell.

                              in reply to: 96 Suzuki Sidekick Hydraulic Clutch Issue #479459
                              jenaflexjenaflex
                              Participant

                                [quote=”roywrench22″ post=38937]It shows up as hard shifts on a new car. As the pilot bushing or bearing wears the end of the input shaft is no longer supported and the disk can flop around with the clutch depressed. I’m not insisting this is the case with this car. It’s just one possibility. It could also be rust on the input shaft spline, or some hydraulic issue with the slave cylinder or clutch master cylinder. The bottom line is the clutch is not disengaging.
                                If you want to learn about bell housing misalignment look at dialing in a bell housing on you tube.[/quote]

                                My car is old, 96 sidekick JX sprot 1.8L (totally different car from 1.6L sidekick or tracker). It is the pre-2.0L and V6 Grand Vitara. My car is at 107k miles, but dusty, some rusty. The ex-owner sit the car in the garage for a year before sell.

                                in reply to: 96 Suzuki Sidekick Hydraulic Clutch Issue #478904
                                jenaflexjenaflex
                                Participant

                                  [quote=”roywrench22″ post=38931]You cant have grinding going into reverse unless your transmission mainshaft is spinning.
                                  With the clutch fully depressed the mainshaft should be completely at rest, unless you are rolling. The only way you can spin the mainshaft with the clutch fully depressed is if the clutch disk doesn’t completely disengage from the flywheel and pressure plate it is sandwiched between.[/quote]

                                  I agree with you. On a flat surface, when I release a little clutch pedal at 1st gear, the car could move slowly.

                                Viewing 15 replies - 31 through 45 (of 64 total)
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