Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Thank you. I found out the ex-owner was using type-2 blue coolant. So I use type-2 blue.
I have already put a AC belt on. When I turn on AC, it makes wired noise. So either compressor clutch or internal of compressor is bad.
EGR, I haven’t got time to work on that.
“I can only turn the compressor a full turn” I mean the inner one, not outer pulley.
Thank you. I found out the ex-owner was using type-2 blue coolant. So I use type-2 blue.
I have already put a AC belt on. When I turn on AC, it makes wired noise. So either compressor clutch or internal of compressor is bad.
EGR, I haven’t got time to work on that.
“I can only turn the compressor a full turn” I mean the inner one, not outer pulley.
[quote=”ridinred24″ post=59078]You dont need to flush the system. Once the system is recovered, remove both lines from the compressor and swap with a q tip. If there is black, metal debris in the suction line then the whole system is contaminated and will need to be flushed really well or replaced entirely.
Your car has 2 expansion valves. One on the high side hose going to the evaporator and one at the evaporator in the dash. Those evaporators are relatively easy to remove. You need to remove the blower unit then the evaporator will be right in your face. The only way to know if that needs to be replaced will be by checking the pressures once the compressor is replaced.[/quote]
I removed old compressor. When I first loosened the low pressure hose from old compressor, there were quite bit R134 gas coming out. The release of gas lasted about 1 min. Then, when I took off the compressor, both channels going inside the compressor is shinny and clean without metal shavings. However, I can only turn the compressor a full turn, then “hit” a point that it is significantly harder to turn (by hand). Then, after this point, it can be turned another full turn and “hit” the same “harder” position again. Also, I use q-tip to check the low and high pressure hoses. The q-tips are just a little bit black (even it may be due to my dirty hand or touching dirty engine block). :S
I can take pictures of my hoses and compressor if it is helpful for you to address problem.
Thank you.
1. What is the possible condition of my compressor and the rest of AC system
2. Do I need to flush the system?
If I need to flush the system, which part that I can flush, which part that I cannot flush.3. Is that possible to DIY flush (borrow air-compressor, gauges, flush-chemical bottle which attaches on the compressed air hose. )?
4. To flush correctly, should I disconnect different parts, such as pipes, condenser, evaporator, etc., and flush them separately?
5. My car has TWO expansion valves, ONE evaporator (which is in dash), ONE condensor, and ONE drier, am I correct?
[quote=”ridinred24″ post=59078]You dont need to flush the system. Once the system is recovered, remove both lines from the compressor and swap with a q tip. If there is black, metal debris in the suction line then the whole system is contaminated and will need to be flushed really well or replaced entirely.
Your car has 2 expansion valves. One on the high side hose going to the evaporator and one at the evaporator in the dash. Those evaporators are relatively easy to remove. You need to remove the blower unit then the evaporator will be right in your face. The only way to know if that needs to be replaced will be by checking the pressures once the compressor is replaced.[/quote]
I removed old compressor. When I first loosened the low pressure hose from old compressor, there were quite bit R134 gas coming out. The release of gas lasted about 1 min. Then, when I took off the compressor, both channels going inside the compressor is shinny and clean without metal shavings. However, I can only turn the compressor a full turn, then “hit” a point that it is significantly harder to turn (by hand). Then, after this point, it can be turned another full turn and “hit” the same “harder” position again. Also, I use q-tip to check the low and high pressure hoses. The q-tips are just a little bit black (even it may be due to my dirty hand or touching dirty engine block). :S
I can take pictures of my hoses and compressor if it is helpful for you to address problem.
Thank you.
1. What is the possible condition of my compressor and the rest of AC system
2. Do I need to flush the system?
If I need to flush the system, which part that I can flush, which part that I cannot flush.3. Is that possible to DIY flush (borrow air-compressor, gauges, flush-chemical bottle which attaches on the compressed air hose. )?
4. To flush correctly, should I disconnect different parts, such as pipes, condenser, evaporator, etc., and flush them separately?
5. My car has TWO expansion valves, ONE evaporator (which is in dash), ONE condensor, and ONE drier, am I correct?
is R12 compressor from Acura Legend interchangeable with R134a compressor on my 97 RL? (keep all the AC line on my RL and use RL’s dryer, etc…)
I am thinking to get a quality Denso R12 compressor instead of a no-name junk compressor.
BTW, do you know other model of Acura use same compressor as my 97RL? for example, integra, TL… those are easy to find in junk yard.
is R12 compressor from Acura Legend interchangeable with R134a compressor on my 97 RL? (keep all the AC line on my RL and use RL’s dryer, etc…)
I am thinking to get a quality Denso R12 compressor instead of a no-name junk compressor.
BTW, do you know other model of Acura use same compressor as my 97RL? for example, integra, TL… those are easy to find in junk yard.
I agree with u. Do u know how to flush the system to check if there is metal shavings in the line? Also, I am more worrying about expansion valve that is in the dash broad. How to check if I need to replace expansion valve or not. The expansion valve in the dash broad is really hard to get and need to remove the dash borad.
I agree with u. Do u know how to flush the system to check if there is metal shavings in the line? Also, I am more worrying about expansion valve that is in the dash broad. How to check if I need to replace expansion valve or not. The expansion valve in the dash broad is really hard to get and need to remove the dash borad.
honda type II (50/50) is kinda expensive in my local dealer, $19/Gal.
I think “college man” gave me an idea: as long as I use silicate free and quality coolant, such as Prestone and keep change coolant at regular basis like 2yr or 30k miles, my car should be fine on running non-honda coolant. Am I right?
honda type II (50/50) is kinda expensive in my local dealer, $19/Gal.
I think “college man” gave me an idea: as long as I use silicate free and quality coolant, such as Prestone and keep change coolant at regular basis like 2yr or 30k miles, my car should be fine on running non-honda coolant. Am I right?
I mean to say that old-style honda OE green coolant comes with 100% and need to be mixed with Distilled water. Most of (not all) green coolant contains silicates, which can deposit some stuff in the engine cooling line.
http://www.acura-legend.com/vbulletin/f4/coolant-blue-green-136148/
look the #5 replay with the pictures.
I think honda OE green coolant is different from generic green coolant. (correct me if I am wrong)
I read this post. Some say type II and honda old-style green are the same thing. Some say NOT.
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2565925I mean to say that old-style honda OE green coolant comes with 100% and need to be mixed with Distilled water. Most of (not all) green coolant contains silicates, which can deposit some stuff in the engine cooling line.
http://www.acura-legend.com/vbulletin/f4/coolant-blue-green-136148/
look the #5 replay with the pictures.
I think honda OE green coolant is different from generic green coolant. (correct me if I am wrong)
I read this post. Some say type II and honda old-style green are the same thing. Some say NOT.
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2565925generic green coolant is bad to aluminum engine. I searched online, the old-style honda green coolant is 100% straight coolant, which is still a unique coolant. Someone says it is Organic Acid Tech coolant. While the blue honda type II coolant is 50/50 premixed only.
I plan to change coolant soon. the water pump service was in 2011 @ 160k miles. It hasn’t been changed for 2 years and now it is kinda close to MIN line in the reservoir.
generic green coolant is bad to aluminum engine. I searched online, the old-style honda green coolant is 100% straight coolant, which is still a unique coolant. Someone says it is Organic Acid Tech coolant. While the blue honda type II coolant is 50/50 premixed only.
I plan to change coolant soon. the water pump service was in 2011 @ 160k miles. It hasn’t been changed for 2 years and now it is kinda close to MIN line in the reservoir.