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It’s threaded, I checked a friends newer Jeep and it looks like it is supposed to be for a sensor that my older Jeep doesn’t have. I went to my engine shop where I bought the head and they just told me they use metal plugs. I threaded it in and it seems to work just fine.
Well it looks like the flat edge actually goes touches the transmission and the curved edge touches the oil pan. This way it covers the real rear main seal and it looks like that’s the case for other Jeeps I’ve thrown my self under recently and it is outside of the pan
I realized this shortly after I checked my scan tool. I got another ignition coil (outside of the 8 that I changed out earlier) and the cylinder started firing again. I think I might have gotten a dud earlier. The power is back but I think I have a legit vacuum leak; it’s occasionally missing. I think this is what might be making my power steering stall issue more apparent as well but I’m still not sure. My LFT1 was at 29.69% and LFT2 was at -7.03 but my o2s11 and o2s21 looked normal.
Hi Eric I got a 2002 AWD Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0l 6-inline and it started to make a loud engine knock a few hours after changing the fuel filter by the gas tank and putting in premium gas to “clean” the system. Why does it knock after doing this (isn’t leaking; everything’s tight) and why would it quiet down after putting in regular gas after I disconnect my battery to reset my ECU? Today I changed spark plugs, oil & oil filter and it quiet down more. I saw coolant in the oil (I don’t think it has a bad headgasket; doesn’t leak lots of coolant on the floor or overheat). I can still hear it though and it’s not knocking if I go 70 mph on the highway. I’m thinkin that if I had a bad connecting rod (or lifter) that it would always be knocking, esspecialy at 70 mph. The knock gets louder after I gently let off the gas (no braking) to slow it down. Happy Thanksgiving!