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To answer that question, it would be best if we knew what models you were working on and the cope of your work. Needless to say, now most late model cars are predominantly metric. I would buy another set of tools if you are planning on making this a long term thing.
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Couldn’t live without both. When my batteries die, I grab air. When nothing fits, I grab stubby air. When I can, I use cordless. Either way, it’s a huge investment. I probably have well over $2000 worth of Milwaukee electric and snapon/matco air tools… that’s not counting the compressor which the shop supplies.
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I always use cutting fluid no matter what. That’s what I learned in school, and it’s worked for more than a decade for me. As for the auto parts store advice, all I can say is those guys work at a retail auto store for a reason. They are not what I would consider to be subject matter experts. Not saying they are all bad, but the ones that are knowledgeable are the exception to the rule. Most of the time, they can barely get a part ordered let alone tell you how to work on it. As for drill bit size, there is no need to look on the internet, I’ll make it easy for you… the proper dill bit size is always printed or engraved on the tap. Makes it so dumb ass mechanics like myself can’t screw it up…
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I would be very careful in making shadetree roadside repairs. Problem is with liability. What happens if you get a vehicle back on the road that isn’t actually road worthy, and 5 miles down, they have a serious accident because of something you did? I think it’s commendable that you want to branch out and provide the best services possible for stranded motorists, but you are probably best served to keep spare phone chargers, blankets, snacks, bottled water, gas cans, toys for kids, lawn chairs, etc. All things that you can directly impact the comfort of your customers without putting yourself and your company in the line of fire for a huge lawsuit.
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Ah, looks like you have learned the first lesson young one… This job can suck bad sometimes. Life at the dealership for a straight timer when working around a bunch of flat rate techs can be really shitty. I’m sure someone has told you that you have to pay your dues, and you probably think that it’s bullshit. Fact is, it is 100000% true. The first thing you need to do is prove yourself. Snapping off a couple of tune-ups and all is nice, but you have a long hard road ahead. Fact is, for most guys, it is about 3-5 years before they can really perform. And even more before you can be considered a top tech. You should be thankful that you have the opportunity to learn and get paid at the same time. I know it sucks, but life is a bitch. Once you’re on the other side of this experience, you will look back on how it molded you into the tech that you will (hopefully) become. Walking away is not the answer. Stick with it and remember that the dealership cares about the P&L statement and nothing else. Your job is to make the number in the profit column bigger. Nobody owes you a thing.
There’s the tough love portion of the talk. Now, here is the other side. I know it sucks. We all know it sucks. Your service manager knows it sucks. Put your head down and work your ass off, and don’t complain and hopefully you will get noticed. This is a tough world to be in. Not only do you have to fight the constant barrage of needy customers, and overbearing managers, and unhelpful coworkers, but you have to try and learn something. I promise it gets better. Just keep moving forward and get smarter. Get faster. Go home at night and have a cold beer and get up and do it all over again.
Good luck out there man, I hope you take the advice and run with it.
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I’ll triple that for Milwaukee. I own two snapon air impacts (mg325/mg725), and 4 Milwaukee impacts (m12 1/4″, m12 3/8, m18 3/8, and m18 1/2 high torque). I live and die by my cordless, but I’ll admit I could get by without them. All those tools represent a very substantial investment (about $1500). Choose what your budget allows. If you are strapped for cash, I will say that many of the younger techs start off with used air guns from the pawn shops at a fraction of the cost of what the truck sells them for. I would stay very far away from truck brand cordless tools. They are trash in my opinion and the batteries don’t fit as many things as the dedicated manufacturers do like mikita, Milwaukee, dewalt, etc.
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Tuga, I’ll try and expand on what mdk was saying.
1. I don’t clamp brake lines. Ever. Normally they don’t stay disconnected for that long, but if I need to I’ll just rubber band a blue shop towel around the banjo fitting. I’m not as concerned about stuff coming out as I am stuff going in. To that effect, you could also use a blue cap if you have one in the right size. That’s the other option. Point is, you will at a minimum need to bleed that wheel when you install the caliper. It wouldn’t be a bad idea to do a complete system flush and bleed.
2. Honing is required to give you a consistent and good crosshatch in the bore of the caliper for the piston seal to do its job. Just like a piston in the engine, or a hydraulic cylinder.Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
I’m going to give you the benefit of the doubt that you aren’t being serious…
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Milwaukee m12 and m18 are great. I have owned dewalt and Milwaukee and used both professionally, and I would take the Milwaukee hands down every day.
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“Bar over” is a term that just means to turn the engine by hand with a breaker bar. like what we are talking about. To answer your other question, yes. you are looking for two full rotations of the crankshaft to verify that all camshafts have completed one full rotation. the other thing that checks is for binding in your crankshaft and possible interference from anywhere else. in your case, with what you described, as far as the no lube situation the car experienced, I wouldnt be suprised if you were in fact seized at one or more of the crankshaft main journals. good luck.