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Hello everyone! I FIGURED IT OUT and you might fall off your seat when you hear this…
So he told me he took of head, got machined, threw it back on and it ran like that. He changed all the parts i told him to on the list above and still nothing. I asked him more than once if it had fuel in the gas tank… He bought 3 gallons and put it in and still nothing… Turns out we put 5 more gallons in and it ran perfect and did not shut off!!
My conclusion – He was on a little hill in the drive port and im assuming the car did not sit flat enough.. And could not feed gas through the pump!
Thanks everyone on the forum for your ideas as they DID help me as always! You guys are awsome thanks ETCG! Untill next time, stayin dirty!! =]]
Quoted From dreamer2355:
First of all, what vehicle are you working on and why was there machine work done to the heads? And any sign of a CEL?
Next time it stalls, you need to isolate if your missing fuel or spark. That will give you a good starting point and im going to assume you have that type of testing equipment already if your removing and installing cylinder heads?
The car is a 94 Acura Integra Ls model. Thats the problem, i’ve checked all the sums it could be that effect idle gas and spark?? What test equipment are you talking about? I am always swapping heads and building frankenstein motors, never had this problem.
The motor ran normal, pulled off head then head was ported and polished and also been decked and cleaned. Then it was re assembled and this problem happend.
My question i guess is what could it be…? FROM LOOKIN AT ALL NEW PARTS.. What ELSE could effect the spark and fuel?
1. I know it has compression because starts right up runs great and very smooth stock feeling.
2. I am sure timing is on because in my experience the car does not start right up and idle if its a tooth off or even on the pulley.
3. Does NOT throw any CEL!!!HELLLLLPP!? At this point im at a dead end… ETCG, i really need ur haallp! Haha =]
Anyone else had this problem? If it shut off right away i know its map or iacv most of the time easy fix, but this stays on for almost 30 seconds before it shuts off.
Quoted From twiggy02919:
Did you pull the dash back off to visually inspect the wiring there? Since you said that is when your troubles started you could have pinched some wires. Also consider that something could have been plugged in wrong spot or otherwise misplaced connected (one pin off/ backwards).
Yes i pulled of dash over 5 times easy looking. I taped up my dash harness to avoid contact in most places, but i have gone threw it time over again and no bare broken wires? I mean there HAS to be somewhere.. Im going to invest in that tool that iss pretty neat lol!
And yes I am going to re wire to to the fuse box and see if that helps! Thanks ETCG forum! You guys are awsome! I will post up updates and if resolved let the forum know!
Off to get dirty in some wiring >=]
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
The videos I make are based on what comes into the shop so it’s difficult to fill requests like yours however if one shows up and I have the time to shoot the video I’d be happy to make those videos for you but in the mean time here is the video on how to torque heads. BTW the B series timing belt video that I just released will work for the VTEC engine and does show how to align the timing marks there are just a few subtle differenced between the VTEC and nonVTEC engines, I’ll post a link to that ‘trailer’ also.
Head bolts
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5WHBskK_F3o
B series
Thanks ETCG! You are the man!
Thanks guys for getting back to me, I might have to tear it down and look again..
Im pretty sure it has something to do with compression or timing..(compression numbers are great) I just ordered new basemap for a 2.0L Vtec map so should give me right fuel map and then i can see if that makes any difference in power through WHOLE gear and not only parts.
VTEC works and engages just fine and has great power but right begginning of gear doesn’t pull as hard as it should, and before gear ends loses little power. Its not big loss but it is noticable i don’t want to over exagerate on it but you can notice.
There are marks on the both cams and when i align to TDC the marks line up horizontally perfect.. Im assuming last mechanic that worked with the timing marked them to make it easier or if there is another reason to me thats unknown?
Would i lose power through the head not being flat and leaking little oil?
Would i be off timing by 1 cam or both? And say i push the distributor all the way towards the firewall and the timing light mark flys towards the bumper BUT makes more power, should i move the cam(s) 1 tooth clockwise? Since the more re tarded the timing is the better it runs?
Advice most appreciated thanks ETCG & jacobnbr1! It makes it easier to trouble shoot knowing all the possibilities!
I heard if you take to much off on the resufrace the head is no good, so they say if your looking for compression dont re surface the head unless you absolutly have to..
Im using GSR head, GSR cams, B16 Toda timing belt, Unorthadox racing crank pulley
You cams could be synced, but then you could be off on the crankshaft side.” —- This could be true…
^Thats what i was thinking, the cams probly are in sync as seeing it runs smooth and no problems or misfire and when i use timing gun i can get dead on the mark without having to use extra room i have from cutting dizzy up lol..But why does it have not good power when timing mark is dead on with timing light?
Since i cut the dizzy and pushed it all the way toward the firewall, not sure if thats re tard or advanced, but seems to pull more and more power. i have to cut dizzy more for it to go further but again don’t want to slap valve or something pushing it trying to get timing on that way if its the CRANK pulley thats off.
but crank timing probly off.. the pully is aftermarket so has TDC mark and 1 Timing mark i assume is 4 degree BTDC, my buddy said it could be off cuz its aftermarket.. but why would they make the part if it doesn’t fit right especially for timing? So i assume also its aligned to crank just as stock is.
One more question is they say put cams up even with surface of HEAD.. that makes the cams sitting more like this not EXACTLY straight up | |
I can take a pic to show my crank pully mark is at, and also where the cams sit at at same spot if that would help?Thanks guys for getting back to me, I might have to tear it down and look again..
Im pretty sure it has something to do with compression or timing..(compression numbers are great) I just ordered new basemap for a 2.0L Vtec map so should give me right fuel map and then i can see if that makes any difference in power through WHOLE gear and not only parts.
VTEC works and engages just fine and has great power but right begginning of gear doesn’t pull as hard as it should, and before gear ends loses little power. Its not big loss but it is noticable i don’t want to over exagerate on it but you can notice.
There are marks on the both cams and when i align to TDC the marks line up horizontally perfect.. Im assuming last mechanic that worked with the timing marked them to make it easier or if there is another reason to me thats unknown?
Would i lose power through the head not being flat and leaking little oil?
Would i be off timing by 1 cam or both? And say i push the distributor all the way towards the firewall and the timing light mark flys towards the bumper BUT makes more power, should i move the cam(s) 1 tooth clockwise? Since the more re tarded the timing is the better it runs?
Advice most appreciated thanks ETCG & jacobnbr1! It makes it easier to trouble shoot knowing all the possibilities!
I heard if you take to much off on the resufrace the head is no good, so they say if your looking for compression dont re surface the head unless you absolutly have to..
Im using GSR head, GSR cams, B16 Toda timing belt, Unorthadox racing crank pulley
You cams could be synced, but then you could be off on the crankshaft side.” —- This could be true…
^Thats what i was thinking, the cams probly are in sync as seeing it runs smooth and no problems or misfire and when i use timing gun i can get dead on the mark without having to use extra room i have from cutting dizzy up lol..But why does it have not good power when timing mark is dead on with timing light?
Since i cut the dizzy and pushed it all the way toward the firewall, not sure if thats re tard or advanced, but seems to pull more and more power. i have to cut dizzy more for it to go further but again don’t want to slap valve or something pushing it trying to get timing on that way if its the CRANK pulley thats off.
but crank timing probly off.. the pully is aftermarket so has TDC mark and 1 Timing mark i assume is 4 degree BTDC, my buddy said it could be off cuz its aftermarket.. but why would they make the part if it doesn’t fit right especially for timing? So i assume also its aligned to crank just as stock is.
One more question is they say put cams up even with surface of HEAD.. that makes the cams sitting more like this not EXACTLY straight up | |
I can take a pic to show my crank pully mark is at, and also where the cams sit at at same spot if that would help?