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Another questiong guys.
Since my compression test came out 150 148 152 152, do I need to do a leakdown test? Or are the numbers good enough that I don’t need to worry about it?
I’ll be doing the injector leak test Eric mentioned as soon as my fuel pressure gauge gets delivered.
Another questiong guys.
Since my compression test came out 150 148 152 152, do I need to do a leakdown test? Or are the numbers good enough that I don’t need to worry about it?
I’ll be doing the injector leak test Eric mentioned as soon as my fuel pressure gauge gets delivered.
Thanks for the reply Eric and College man,
I forgot to mention it no longer misfires on a warm startup. This happened after I took the spark plugs out to inspect them and put everything back. They looked normal. Slightly brownish all around with 20k miles of use. Weird that this helped somewhat.
I’ve also done a compression test and resulted in around 150psi all around.
I just have a sluggish running car when the fuel trim shows rich. This can happen at any time during the trip and improve at any time too. It runs great when the trim numbers are Long trims are near 0, poor when it gets to -7 or lower.
I’ll look into checking the injectors. Thanks for the advice.
Thanks for the reply Eric and College man,
I forgot to mention it no longer misfires on a warm startup. This happened after I took the spark plugs out to inspect them and put everything back. They looked normal. Slightly brownish all around with 20k miles of use. Weird that this helped somewhat.
I’ve also done a compression test and resulted in around 150psi all around.
I just have a sluggish running car when the fuel trim shows rich. This can happen at any time during the trip and improve at any time too. It runs great when the trim numbers are Long trims are near 0, poor when it gets to -7 or lower.
I’ll look into checking the injectors. Thanks for the advice.
I’ve been monitoring this situation for a while now.
From looking at live scan data I can see the car runs rich while this is happening. Even if not misfiring, it idles and runs rough in low rpm driving.
Then after a while it all goes back to running fine.
I can see the long fuel trims during idle swing from 0 (running fine, smooth) to -7 (running rough) in a single commute. Then it will swing back from -7 to 0 again on the next commute.
Where should I be looking at as the cause of this? There are no codes, but I dont want to wait until something really expensive breaks to find out what’s wrong.
I’ve cleaned the MAF and IACV. Spark plugs look fine and ignition coils are new. I can view live data and data log too. Please give me some insight on which direction to go here. Thanks.
I’ve been monitoring this situation for a while now.
From looking at live scan data I can see the car runs rich while this is happening. Even if not misfiring, it idles and runs rough in low rpm driving.
Then after a while it all goes back to running fine.
I can see the long fuel trims during idle swing from 0 (running fine, smooth) to -7 (running rough) in a single commute. Then it will swing back from -7 to 0 again on the next commute.
Where should I be looking at as the cause of this? There are no codes, but I dont want to wait until something really expensive breaks to find out what’s wrong.
I’ve cleaned the MAF and IACV. Spark plugs look fine and ignition coils are new. I can view live data and data log too. Please give me some insight on which direction to go here. Thanks.
Thanks for the responses.
I kind of inherited this truck from the inlaws. From what I see, they didn’t do anything EXCEPT maybe change the oil when they felt like it. The air filter was totally black with a thick coat of dust on it. That pretty much shows their maintenance routine for the rest of the car. It’s got 105,000 miles on it so far.
When I got it the brakes vibrated while braking and had the modulation problem. I bled and flushed the system with new fluid. Then got new rotors. I should have gotten new pads too but I was on a budget.
I’m thinking it’s a hydraulic issue since it got better with the bleeding and flush. but came back later.
When I pump the brakes with the car off it gets harder, but not too hard. seems a little soft. My other cars go rock hard. This ones got some cushion to it.
As far as the caliper pins go, this one’s got a one piece caliper. I’m not a pro, but I don’t think these have slider pins right?
Thanks for the responses.
I kind of inherited this truck from the inlaws. From what I see, they didn’t do anything EXCEPT maybe change the oil when they felt like it. The air filter was totally black with a thick coat of dust on it. That pretty much shows their maintenance routine for the rest of the car. It’s got 105,000 miles on it so far.
When I got it the brakes vibrated while braking and had the modulation problem. I bled and flushed the system with new fluid. Then got new rotors. I should have gotten new pads too but I was on a budget.
I’m thinking it’s a hydraulic issue since it got better with the bleeding and flush. but came back later.
When I pump the brakes with the car off it gets harder, but not too hard. seems a little soft. My other cars go rock hard. This ones got some cushion to it.
As far as the caliper pins go, this one’s got a one piece caliper. I’m not a pro, but I don’t think these have slider pins right?
After seeing the code for cylinder 4 misfire, I swapped ignition coils with #1.
Months later, it’s misfireing more frequently and I happened to catch the right moment to do the power balance test. It was missing randomly and inconsistently. #1 now has the questionable ignition coil.
Disconnected #1 and the miss was rythmic. Put #1 back on and disconnected the others. With any others disconnected, the miss was more frequent. I would hear a double miss from time to time. This pointed to #1 missing plus the disconnected cylinder also missing.
I bought a new ignition coil at O’Reily’s and the problem’s now fixed.
Thanks to Eric and others for their advice on the power balance test. Luckily I didn’t listen to the auto shops advice to replace the headgasket. I just didn’t see any symptoms like missing coolant or oil or bad compression test numbers to point to a bad headgasket.
Should I replace all the ignition coils? Or should I just wait for them to go bad individually. I figure if one went bad, the rest would soon follow.
After seeing the code for cylinder 4 misfire, I swapped ignition coils with #1.
Months later, it’s misfireing more frequently and I happened to catch the right moment to do the power balance test. It was missing randomly and inconsistently. #1 now has the questionable ignition coil.
Disconnected #1 and the miss was rythmic. Put #1 back on and disconnected the others. With any others disconnected, the miss was more frequent. I would hear a double miss from time to time. This pointed to #1 missing plus the disconnected cylinder also missing.
I bought a new ignition coil at O’Reily’s and the problem’s now fixed.
Thanks to Eric and others for their advice on the power balance test. Luckily I didn’t listen to the auto shops advice to replace the headgasket. I just didn’t see any symptoms like missing coolant or oil or bad compression test numbers to point to a bad headgasket.
Should I replace all the ignition coils? Or should I just wait for them to go bad individually. I figure if one went bad, the rest would soon follow.
Thanks for the input everyone.
I’m probaby gonna clean it up a bit once spring or summer rolls around. That front sway bar is a little worrysome though. Pics don’t show it but it looks like it bursted.
Thanks for the input everyone.
I’m probaby gonna clean it up a bit once spring or summer rolls around. That front sway bar is a little worrysome though. Pics don’t show it but it looks like it bursted.
What do you guys think about a spray on Rust Inhibitor such as this:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RLL-248658/
It says it will convert the rust to a flat black paintable surface. Will that neutralize the rust already there? Then I can use some kind of protectant? Any thoughts appreciated.
What do you guys think about a spray on Rust Inhibitor such as this:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RLL-248658/
It says it will convert the rust to a flat black paintable surface. Will that neutralize the rust already there? Then I can use some kind of protectant? Any thoughts appreciated.