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Yes the check engine light comes on ignition. I checked with a scan tool no codes history. All tires are the same size and brand and model at 32 psi.
Hey guys..
I finally got the Camry AC cooling like a freezer again. :woohoo: The system components were all healthy but the refrigerant it self was not It was contaminated from the previous service I describe above. I remember the service guy added a bit of charge from a goofy R134a manufacture and didn’t purge the manifold gauge set. This contaminated the system giving the out of range readings.
So I went ahead and got my self a two cans of Harp R134a pure refrigerant (expensive of course), drove to shop and recovered the old refrigerant, later I vacuumed the system down for one hour (noticed a lot of vapor coming out from the pump after 30 mins.) and finally I added a mix of half oz of refrigerant oil with UV Dye using a FJC Oil Injector and 19oz of refrigerant using a scale.
I got 36F vent temperature at 96f degree summer day enough to fog my windows and give me a cold.
I couldn’t be happier with the results the AC is working like new.
Thanks guys for all the help.
Juan
Hey guys..
I finally got the Camry AC cooling like a freezer again. :woohoo: The system components were all healthy but the refrigerant it self was not It was contaminated from the previous service I describe above. I remember the service guy added a bit of charge from a goofy R134a manufacture and didn’t purge the manifold gauge set. This contaminated the system giving the out of range readings.
So I went ahead and got my self a two cans of Harp R134a pure refrigerant (expensive of course), drove to shop and recovered the old refrigerant, later I vacuumed the system down for one hour (noticed a lot of vapor coming out from the pump after 30 mins.) and finally I added a mix of half oz of refrigerant oil with UV Dye using a FJC Oil Injector and 19oz of refrigerant using a scale.
I got 36F vent temperature at 96f degree summer day enough to fog my windows and give me a cold.
I couldn’t be happier with the results the AC is working like new.
Thanks guys for all the help.
Juan
[quote=”ToyotaKarl” post=93322]Replace MAF Sensor… Disconnect battery and drive it for an hour or so…
-Karl[/quote]
Would this work?
[quote=”ToyotaKarl” post=93322]Replace MAF Sensor… Disconnect battery and drive it for an hour or so…
-Karl[/quote]
Would this work?
Thanks College man for the reply.
Unfortunately this has not help. This idle issue has with this car after the first battery change. It would improve a bit but still remains the same. So after this service it should improve but it has not.
Thanks College man for the reply.
Unfortunately this has not help. This idle issue has with this car after the first battery change. It would improve a bit but still remains the same. So after this service it should improve but it has not.
[quote=”Wayne613″ post=42111]From that, and the previous symptoms you describe, the likely answer is worn compressor.
This guy has a decent walk-through of the typical system, check near the bottom of the page for easy diagnostics (entitled, “The following will help you diagnose your AC system”):
http://forums.nicoclub.com/the-end-all-air-conditioning-article-t269897.htmlAssuming that’s correct after testing, take it someplace with a recovery machine, have them do it all, or just the recovery, and you can do the part swap. Still likely cost you $200 minimum to properly vacuum it, then refill after if you don’t already have the equipment necessary. So, very likely worth the slight extra cost IMO just to have a proper shop do it all to make sure the proper amount of oil, etc is done, especially with a new compressor.[/quote]
Well my last option is to take the car to a service center. I haven’t found a service center where they work by the book. They just have kids with a single pressure gauge plugging it to the low side to port to check pressures and adding refrigerant the wrong way heck some don’t even have vacuum pumps.
I prefer to fix this my self.
[quote=”Wayne613″ post=42111]From that, and the previous symptoms you describe, the likely answer is worn compressor.
This guy has a decent walk-through of the typical system, check near the bottom of the page for easy diagnostics (entitled, “The following will help you diagnose your AC system”):
http://forums.nicoclub.com/the-end-all-air-conditioning-article-t269897.htmlAssuming that’s correct after testing, take it someplace with a recovery machine, have them do it all, or just the recovery, and you can do the part swap. Still likely cost you $200 minimum to properly vacuum it, then refill after if you don’t already have the equipment necessary. So, very likely worth the slight extra cost IMO just to have a proper shop do it all to make sure the proper amount of oil, etc is done, especially with a new compressor.[/quote]
Well my last option is to take the car to a service center. I haven’t found a service center where they work by the book. They just have kids with a single pressure gauge plugging it to the low side to port to check pressures and adding refrigerant the wrong way heck some don’t even have vacuum pumps.
I prefer to fix this my self.
I got a small video of this test. Im not so good at editing… lol
[video width=425 height=344 type=youtube]z1Mu7ff-YYU[/video]
Thanks
I got a small video of this test. Im not so good at editing… lol
[video width=425 height=344 type=youtube]z1Mu7ff-YYU[/video]
Thanks
Hey guys I’m back!!!
I finally got my set of AC Gauges and today I got the change to do a pressure check on the Air Conditioning System.
Before I switch the AC on these were my pressure.
The outside temperature was about 82 degree.
Low side 120 PSI
High side 120 PSII also got the factory service manual where it says at 1500 RPM on a proper charge system at 86-95F you should be between 21.7 – 36 PSI low side and 198 – 227.7 PSI on the high side.
I rolled all the windows down set AC to max cool and the recycle switch off.
I let the system run at idle rpm after about 10 min
Low side about 50 PSI
High side 210 PSIBoth Radiator and Condenser fans were at full speed.
I raised the engine RPM between 1500 RPM.
Low Side about 42 PSI.
High Side 250 PSI.Vent Temperature about 60F.
so comments are welcome 🙂
Juan
Hey guys I’m back!!!
I finally got my set of AC Gauges and today I got the change to do a pressure check on the Air Conditioning System.
Before I switch the AC on these were my pressure.
The outside temperature was about 82 degree.
Low side 120 PSI
High side 120 PSII also got the factory service manual where it says at 1500 RPM on a proper charge system at 86-95F you should be between 21.7 – 36 PSI low side and 198 – 227.7 PSI on the high side.
I rolled all the windows down set AC to max cool and the recycle switch off.
I let the system run at idle rpm after about 10 min
Low side about 50 PSI
High side 210 PSIBoth Radiator and Condenser fans were at full speed.
I raised the engine RPM between 1500 RPM.
Low Side about 42 PSI.
High Side 250 PSI.Vent Temperature about 60F.
so comments are welcome 🙂
Juan
[quote=”johnbkobb” post=34354]What High side and Low side pressures do you have before vehicle is started (cold) and when on and warmed up and at idle?[/quote]
I haven’t check the pressures, I think that the next step here. Usally temperatures are around 80 – 95 degress over here. I did a test I switch the AC on engine cold as stone and on the sight glass I saw foam for a about 5 seconds and then got clear.
[quote=”johnbkobb” post=34354]What High side and Low side pressures do you have before vehicle is started (cold) and when on and warmed up and at idle?[/quote]
I haven’t check the pressures, I think that the next step here. Usally temperatures are around 80 – 95 degress over here. I did a test I switch the AC on engine cold as stone and on the sight glass I saw foam for a about 5 seconds and then got clear.
