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I just did a job recently and ended up with a handful of rusty fasteners so given the conversation about spline drive I figured what the heck…took out a spline drive socket, put the bolt in the vise, and snapped it right off without rounding the head.
I obviously don’t prefer spline drive. I used 6 pt & impact to get these fasteners out, but if I had to use a spline drive wrench I think I would have at least been able to snap them off.
I wonder if one of the problems with spline drive is psychological. With they’re rounded teeth they don’t LOOK like they would grip a bolt well, but I’m not sure if they are really any worse than regular ol 12pt. It would be cool to see some actual torque test data from all the tool companies that sell them.
Ok looks like you got 4% on the TPS…Unfortunately it doesn’t look like you have an actual voltage PID for the TPS but does the percentage increase as you step on the gas pedal?
Now that you can read the live data the next step is to do what Armed said a few posts back.
“Do you have a scan tool that can look at live data? if so with a jumper, jump the 5v ref to the signal wire and see if the computer see’s the signal if so next take a test light if you have one connected to battery positive and touch the ground wire it should light the test light. This will confirm that the wiring and the computer is working as it should. ”
So just to clarify…take a test light and hook the clip to the Yellow/Blue (Ref) then use the probe to touch the Red/Black wire (Sig). As you are watching the live data you should see the TPS increase from 4% to something like 100%
If not, like I said earlier, you may need to check for a short to ground on the signal wire. Also, like I said, it may be a good idea to completely unplug the TPS to isolate it from any wiring faults in the harness. Then hook it up with your own wires and see if it works like it should. Like Armed said if all the wiring is good and you still can’t get a signal. Maybe there is no mechanical movement of the swiper so you would need to take it out and move it by hand to verify this.
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Yellow/Blue- 5 Volt Reference
Green/Blue- Ground. If you are getting continuity on this wire thats good means you have a good ground.
red/Black- Signal wire.I wish I could tell you for sure…you could probably find it on youtube
Basically if you don’t have an automatic tensioner then you either have a long bolt that you have to turn to move an accessory (in your case the pump) further away so the belt gets tighter. Or you have to use a pry bar to move it further way. In both cases you will need to loosen the bolt that it pivots on in order to move it further from the drive pulley.
Please remember to let us know if the belt finally fixes the problem 🙂
I think you are exactly right…a bad battery. Things that can cause weird electrical stuff is bad grounds (unlikely here), low system voltage, and AC ripple. All those symptoms you mentions are just saying low system voltage to me the entire time I was reading your post…some of the statements you made just really point to that, for example…
“gauge lights stayed on but much dimmer than normal
losing communication with TCM
I turn the wiper switch off, everything turns back on
And FINALLY…ACDelco tester and the battery is bad, yeah I figured 🙂
Also you did install a new battery but you said the alternator is bad so that would make sense that this whole thing repeated itself. I personally don’t think it had anything to do with the wiper switch I think it was just coincidence. I think the wiper motor, when on, was pulling system voltage so low that everything was just shutting off.
Computers do all kinds of weird things at low voltage because in order for a voltage regulator to work it’s supply voltage has to be greater (usually by at least 1.5-2.0V) than it’s regulated voltage.
AC ripple really affects DC electronics as well. That guy really needs to let you retest the battery and make sure it is still good then put in a new alternator.I wouldn’t focus on anything else (including mounts and such) until you are sure everything is sound in the suspension. I can’t really see a motor mount causing a speed related vibration.
It seems more likely that you have a suspension problem…
Bad tie rod end
Bad ball joint
Bad wheel bearingThe key in finding these is to jack up the wheel and wiggle it horizontally and vertically and feel for looseness. A lot of times you’ll feel the looseness and just barely, barely be able to see movement in a ball joint or something, but sometimes you can’t actually see the movement. Also if the rubber boot is cracked and/or you see grease has leaked out you should suspect that there may be a problem with the joint. Keep in mind that when you wiggle the wheel in the horizontal direction you will feel some movement because naturally your wheels are designed to move that way via the steering system, but it feels a lot different than actual looseness in a suspension part. The movement you are looking for feels a lot like if you thread a large nut onto a bolt but don’t tighten it down. If you were to grab the nut and try and move it you would feel it kind of rock back and forth ever so slightly. The movement feels very metalic not smooth like the movement in the steering system.
Let me ask you this first…you mentioned that the brake pedal firmed up and returned to normal. Is the ABS light still on or did it go off eventually? If it turned itself off I don’t think I’d worry about it unless it comes on again.
I think I remember you saying you didn’t damage the sensor. It’s still a good idea to give them a visual inspection. Most of them are VRS sensors so they are magnetic. If some rust fell off those old calipers and suspension and stuck to them it can throw the signal off.
As far as the ABS module goes I’m not sure whether or not it would have the ability to detect air during it’s self check. I’ve never heard of that, but I guess it could be possible.
Also check to make sure the float in your brake fluid reservoir is not stuck at the bottom. It happens all the time on my Ford when I change the fluid and such.
If you don’t see any way air got in the system, and you also say that the brakes firmed up after a while it makes me think of something else.
You probably already know this but just in case…After you change brakes/calipers you have to pump the brake pedal like 5 or more times until the pistons in the calipers extend far enough to make contact with the pads and rotors. Because the pistons in a new caliper are completely retracted and you also push the pistons to the completely retracted position when you change out pads. So whenever doing work like that you always have to firm up the brake before the test drive. Is it possible the brakes where not firm at first so they actually firmed up during the test drive as you mentioned?
If they are new calipers maybe there’s an air pocket in there that is being stubborn so just try bleeding the front again. I do think it would be best to bleed all 4 if you think air got circulated through the system, but like I said maybe those brakes just needed to be firmed up and you’re bleeding was perfectly good.
Sounds like you are on track. I would bleed all four points again. How do you think air got into the system in the first place? Was something wrong with your technique the first time you did it?
Once the ABS module doesn’t find the faulty anymore it should turn off the light. The problem with the gravel road method is that if the light is on, the ABS won’t activate so that might be a problem you’ll have to address. Maybe disconnecting the battery will clear the code and allow the ABS to turn back on until it finds the faulty again.
I looked at a diagram for the 2.2
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=4575Looks like the horn and locks are controlled by the security control unit. The lock and unlock inputs are just simply grounds. So your door lock switch is just sending ground to either the lock or unlock pin on the SCU. If you have an intermittent short to ground it would cause random locking and unlocking. If a module looses a ground it can also do weird things.
You could start by looking at the area where all the wires enter the door. Every time you open and shut your door it causes movement in the wires in that spot and can cause damage to them eventually.
I don’t know what else the SCU controls but it may be an option to unplug it permanently or until you can fix the problem. You would lose your auto lock and alarm functions and maybe some other stuff, but in some cases that’s better than having gremlins controlling those functions.Also with the connector unplugged measure the voltage on the TPS pin that the red wire connects to. Is there a valid signal on the signal pin of the TPS?
* You will have to make sure the TPS ground pin is grounded and the 5V is connected with jumpers so definitely don’t try this if your not really comfortable with wiring so you don’t short your 5V ref/fry your pcm.
Probably a safer way to do it is to not use any vehicle wiring just use a 9V battery, but again do this at your own risk.The purpose of what I said above is to test the TPS while eliminating as many wiring harness issues as possible.
Ok so…
Yellow = 5V Ref
Green = GND
Red = SignalUnplug the connector from the TPS. Does the Red wire show continuity to ground? If the signal wire is shorted to ground it will drop all of it’s voltage at the TPS Pot and none of it would be present on the signal wire. So obviously that wire would read 0V as you said.
“it’s like the fuel pump is just on for those 3 seconds and just shuts off entirely”
I just want to make sure I understand this because I don’t want to assume 😆
I only saw you talk about the prime in your post not what the pump does during running. So I have to ask what you mean…The pump should only run for 3 seconds and then shut off. That’s the prime. Then it will turn on when the engine is running. If you are trying to measure pressure after the prime it will be very inconsistent, as you said, because when you hook up your gauge you are relieving the pressure from the prime. The pump has to be running in order to measure fuel pressure correctly.
Is this vehicle a crank, no start…if it is, are you sure there is a problem with the fuel system and not something else?
