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[quote=”ArmedsouthernEr” post=159370]What codes do you have? Some things that come to mind right away are low engine vacuum(possible needs valve adjustment), EGR flow at idle, Jumped timing belt, fuel pressure. Lets just start with what codes you have and go from there.[/quote]
+1 on Codes
Also you gave an Ohm reading for an O2 sensor. Ohm checks are not really a valid way of testing anything except a resistor (like the O2 heater but not the O2 itself…even then I would still prefer a current waveform of the heater on a scope over an ohm check). There are so many ways that an ohm check can mislead you.
Again +1 on EGR…if your EGR is opening at idle it’ll definitely bog down rpms to 300 like you said or stall the engine completely. Of course, without codes or anything else for me to go on it’s just a random guess.
I was going to mention what you did about putting the lugs back on but slightly lose then driving around/braking in a parking lot. Do it at your own risk of course. And stop as soon as it lets loose or it may damage the rim.
Also, instead of hitting the tire which is just going to absorb the blow take a 12″ 2×4 and put the end on the rim and smack that real hard. Just keep at it. It doesn’t ever look like anything is happening, but every time you hit it you are creating little micro fractures in the corrosion. Just a safety thing… leave a few loose lugs on, and keep your toes and such clear. If you’re pounding on it you don’t want it coming off your jack stand or even worse having the wheel collapse off it if it does fall.
Oh yeah getting a 10lb dead blow at a parts store may even be better than the 2×4 sledge combination. You would be amazed at how hard you can hit with it since it’s easier to wield.
Man you really got to get a voltage reading on the fuel level sending unit signal wire (at the guage AND as close to the sending unit as possible). Then you’ll need to see if the voltage is changing on the signal wire in proportion to the needle on the gauge changing.
It almost appears like you have a intermittent lose of signal. This could be a faulty sending unit , a connector fitment issue, a short to GND, or a break in the wiring (sometimes a wire can break inside of the insulation without the insulation being damaged).
Again, you need to take a volt reading. Back probe at the gauge connector first. This will tell you if you have a signal glitch while the gauge it glitching. If the signal is glitching then measure at the sending unit (the wires for it are probably on the same connector as the fuel pump). This will tell you if the glitch is because of wiring or because it is coming directly from the sending unit. If there is no glitch on the signal wire then suspect the gauge.
It could be something like a intake manifold vacuum leak since these will sometimes cause rough idle when cold. After the engine warms up and everything expands the leak mostly seals off and the symptom goes away.
[quote=”gmule” post=159336]My Snap on 3/8 was going in for a rebuild so I picked up an earthquake 3/8 to use while my snap on was being repaired. That little cheap gun has pretty good power and hasn’t failed yet. It is a little heavier than my snap on but every bit as good. As far as breaking the guns in I just add a couple drops of airtool oil before each use and go to work[/quote]
Those Earthquakes are pretty amazing. The guys over there at Garage Journal are like obsessed with them 😆 If you ever go and take it apart you’ll see that the parts just look and feel quality. And yeah the 3/8 does pack a punch I normally use it for everything including lugs and axle nuts. I only break out the 1/2 every now and then.
Also just got an Astro Nano in 3/8 at 450lbft. It’s like 1/2 the size of a regular impact. I don’t have a ton of use on it yet, but it’s the most awesome impact I’ve ever seen or used! It has been able to zip fasteners off that the 3/8 earthquake cannot so I know that it’s for sure more powerful, and when I pick it up I still can’t believe how low profile it is.
For the price of an inductive heater you should definitely just buy a oxy/acet torch they are way more useful. IDK what I would do without mine.
If you can’t afford it MAPP gas can be a good option. MAKE SURE you get a good torch head (one that creates a swirl flame) it will really increase the heat output. I’ve got a ton of use on my TS8000 and it’s been awesome. I just used it yesterday to braze a rod to a bolt because I didn’t feel like getting out the welder or my oxy/acet torch.
Drive around and get the exhaust as hot as possible. Then use the MAPP gas to add as much additional heat as possible. If it still won’t come out, try cutting off the body of it with a hacksaw or something then use a regular socket and impact on it.
[quote=”MDK22″ post=159332]Carbon Pile is by far the most accurate way, Midtronics and Medtronics suck.
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Thank you I’m glad to hear someone else say that! In this age of electronics many people simply follow the results their fancy machine spits out without questioning it or understanding the way things work.
[quote=”wafrederick” post=159232]There is a drawback with the roloc discs used on a die grinder.The roloc discs on a die grinder can do damage,this is when cleaning gasket surfaces used on a die grinder.GM has a TSB on this not to use them.The little pieces can get in the oil which the oil filter can’t trap can cause premature engine failure.There have been cases of this happening including the use of scotchbrite pads.[/quote]
That’s true and I’m glad you mentioned that. I still think he should get one though since there are a lot of gasket surfaces that don’t involve the lubrication system.
I wonder if the issue is not that the oil filter can’t trap it, it’s that the particles embed before they reach the filter. If you clean off a valve cover, for example, they have a lot of travel to do before reaching the filter. IDK it just would seem pathetic that a high quality filter couldn’t handle roloc grit…it would make me wonder why I spend so much on a quality filter.
I’d recommend an old fashion carbon pile tester. I think you can find them on ebay for about $60. IMHO there is nothing more accurate than actually loading a battery with a real load, like 300 Amps. Testing for reserve capacity is also important. After I load test it, I turn on the brights and see if the battery can hold its voltage steady for about 10-15 min.
A few months ago I diagnosed a bad battery that had fooled 2 different shops and the tester used by a parts store. The person had spent over $250 dollars in electrical diagnosis. After testing the battery in the way I mentioned above I discovered that it was bad, replaced it, and the problem was solved.
More than once I’ve seen a bad battery fool a battery tester, but fail the headlight test. The reason the headlight test is so important is because sometimes a battery can start a car just fine. It can put out a quick burst of energy, but it can’t sustain that. So what happens is someone will sit in a parking lot listening to the radio for a while then come back to their car and it won’t start. The car gets towed to a garage where they charge the battery and test it. Since it tests “good” (after the charge) the shop will move on to other tests, like looking for a parasitic drawl, and start racking up diagnostic time. I’m by no means implying that all or most shops do this. I’m only saying that I have seen it more than once.
Just measuring the voltage of a battery is useless in determining whether or not it’s good. If you can’t afford a load tester then I would recommend the headlight test if nothing else. A charged battery will be at 12.6V once you turn on the brights it will settle out to just below 12V (because you’re loading it). After it settles it should hold that voltage pretty much steady for 10-15 min. If your battery is bad you’ll notice it’ll drop eventually even as low as 7-8V.
If you’re on a budget and there is any way to return the gun you bought and buy a Central Pneumatic Earthquake 1/2″ from Harbor Freight I would do it. You will eventually regret having a cheap weak impact. I’ve taken both the 1/2 & 3/8 earthquakes apart and I was really impressed by the quality of the internals. They both have lots of really positive reviews.
Definitely use a 3/8 hose! It will make a big difference. The bigger the ID of your air hose the less friction the air encounters as it moves through. As an example blow through a regular straw then try and blow through a coffee straw. Get a quality hybrid hose not that PVC crap…I really like the flexilla hose. Goodyear rubber hoses are good too but not as flexible as a hybrid.
Most air tools say to run the tool at 90 psi. I’m not aware of any auto shop that runs less than 125 psi line pressure. I personally run as high as possible which is 150 psi for my compressor. It really makes a big difference in the performance of the tool so it is worth it to me to do that.
Use hi-flow fittings. Their opening is like 3x bigger than a regular I/M fitting. Also a hi-flow coupler will still accept a I/M fitting if you have any tools that don’t require high flow. If you put a high flow fitting on your air hose you will need to replace the coupler on your compressor will a high flow coupler so it can accept the fitting.
Impacts don’t need a break-in. Put a few drops of air oil in the air fitting hole before use. I do take them apart every so often and regrease the dog clutch hammer.
Again, I would recommend that you go ahead and invest in a quality set up. Although lugs are torqued to about 100ftlb they often require 300 or more to remove after they’ve corroded on there a while. Crank and axle nuts even more than that.
Ok sounds good!
IDK about Europe, but rotors in the states are really cheap. Sounds like they may be shot, and if I personally couldn’t for sure find the source of the sound, the first thing I would do parts wise is replace the pads and rotors.
Also, sounds like you have changed the rotors from what they were originally. Even if what you did is a common modification, I always would be suspect of a part that is different than what the engineers originally designed. I’m not saying it can’t be done, but I think you’ll find a lot of mechanics who dislike any modifications period. I think Eric has a video where he talks about how much he hates aftermarket stuff.
I say all that even though I recently installed a remote start into my minivan…works like a charm :woohoo: Then again I’m the only one that works on that van and I would much rather deal with my aftermarket installation than someone elses.
I drive older cars and they all make some weird noises. I don’t think I would worry about it unless you notice a performance issue. That being said, there’s no way to really now what you’re talking about unless we can also hear the noise. You could try posting a youtube video in this thread so we can all hear what you’re talking about.
An “iron drag noise” doesn’t sound normal to me. How do your brake pads look? I assume the scrapping noise is coming from the brake area?
Also if you hear it in one spot only it sounds like you may have some kind of runout going on…Maybe your wheels weren’t torqued down evenly enough, rust scale behind or on the face of the rotor, rust scale on the wheel, the rotor itself may just be trash…all these things can cause runout. In other words, rather than all the metal surfaces aligning, there is a wobble in one of them. This may not be perceptible to the eye, but at high speeds it will cause problems.
Give it a good visual inspection…how do things look….really rusty? Low brake pad material? etc.
Yes if you hold down the brakes with the car off the pedal should come to a stop and the master cylinder should hold it’s pressure.
I would start with a rear brake adjustment. If the rear brakes are not adjusted properly there will be too much travel in the brake pedal because you’re using up the volume of the master cylinder just to make the shoes contact the drum.