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Fuel pressure is a good one to start with. Also you could check sensors that have to do with mixture. I had a car stall due to a bad TPS (EGR is one to check also). Vacuum leak and bad injectors can cause mixture problems too
Fuel pressure is a good one to start with. Also you could check sensors that have to do with mixture. I had a car stall due to a bad TPS (EGR is one to check also). Vacuum leak and bad injectors can cause mixture problems too
When you turn the key to run do the dash service lights come on…especially does the check engine light flash on (a dead computer will not flash the check engine light). If you get no lights though sounds like it may be something else.
When you turn the key to run do the dash service lights come on…especially does the check engine light flash on (a dead computer will not flash the check engine light). If you get no lights though sounds like it may be something else.
[quote=”DaGlitch” post=77145]Hey Jay, When I did this a few days ago I had about the same drop in RPM from disconnecting each coil pack. I didn’t come across one that made no change in engine RPM from disconnecting.[/quote]
Good to know, the list ace gave is pretty thorough so hopefully you’ll find the problem there, but if not that’s a tough one :unsure:
[quote=”DaGlitch” post=77145]Hey Jay, When I did this a few days ago I had about the same drop in RPM from disconnecting each coil pack. I didn’t come across one that made no change in engine RPM from disconnecting.[/quote]
Good to know, the list ace gave is pretty thorough so hopefully you’ll find the problem there, but if not that’s a tough one :unsure:
I was thinking voltage regulator too (which can be replaced separately). Here’s a link on testing it
http://www.freeasestudyguides.com/alternator-full-field-test.html
It’s not the best link, but it’ll give you an idea of what I’m talking about then from there maybe you can find a youtube video showing it!
I was thinking voltage regulator too (which can be replaced separately). Here’s a link on testing it
http://www.freeasestudyguides.com/alternator-full-field-test.html
It’s not the best link, but it’ll give you an idea of what I’m talking about then from there maybe you can find a youtube video showing it!
I’m not an expert, but I don’t think it’s a problem. Your engine just happens to like that fuel better. My understanding of octane was that the higher the octane the more resistant to burning it is. Meaning that the compression of the engine is less likely to cause it to burn at the wrong time. Maybe after wearing some your engine compression and spark timing is more compatible with the lower octane. Personally I wouldn’t worry about it, but there’s a lot more knowledgeable people on this forum.
I’m not an expert, but I don’t think it’s a problem. Your engine just happens to like that fuel better. My understanding of octane was that the higher the octane the more resistant to burning it is. Meaning that the compression of the engine is less likely to cause it to burn at the wrong time. Maybe after wearing some your engine compression and spark timing is more compatible with the lower octane. Personally I wouldn’t worry about it, but there’s a lot more knowledgeable people on this forum.
Here’s the things I’d really like to get some thoughts on…
1) How big of a leak would cause the kind of drop I was getting…thinking it would have to be very small. Could that be from water coming out of the oil/drier and displacing the vacuum? System may have been open to atm for 2-3yrs.
2) I had the thought that maybe the leak is from the valves/caps because the amount of dye there seemed more than normal
3) Thinking of replacing the valves, caps, & drier then charging with dyed 134a because the new valves and caps may stop the main problem and even if it has a small leak it may be so small that it would only require a top off every year or two. I know the system should have 0 leaks, but at 180K is the amount of leakage I’m showing significant???
4) Haven’t been able to find the amount of oil to add for a new drier…have a manual for a minivan that says .71 oz???
Here’s the things I’d really like to get some thoughts on…
1) How big of a leak would cause the kind of drop I was getting…thinking it would have to be very small. Could that be from water coming out of the oil/drier and displacing the vacuum? System may have been open to atm for 2-3yrs.
2) I had the thought that maybe the leak is from the valves/caps because the amount of dye there seemed more than normal
3) Thinking of replacing the valves, caps, & drier then charging with dyed 134a because the new valves and caps may stop the main problem and even if it has a small leak it may be so small that it would only require a top off every year or two. I know the system should have 0 leaks, but at 180K is the amount of leakage I’m showing significant???
4) Haven’t been able to find the amount of oil to add for a new drier…have a manual for a minivan that says .71 oz???
Thought I’d post my findings for anyone coming across this thread.
TPS was in fact bad…The old and new TPS had similar resistance ranges. However, when plugged up the signal voltage varied a lot. The old went from .2-2.3V the new one goes from .5-4.5V (thinkin my gas mileage will be a lot better now)
Also, after looking closer and using OCT radiator leak tester (model 7991) which is an awesome product, I realized that antifreeze was very slowly leaking out of my throttle body onto the TPS causing it to fail.