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[quote=”Raistian77″ post=77776]Yeah, if you have the Canadian version, you have daytime running lights, which completely changes the way it is wired.[/quote]
I have no idea how you knew that, but that’s exactly right 🙂 …it does have daytime running lights and that does seem to change the wiring a lot
Oh man I was pulling my hair out trying to understand that wiring diagram :S …the diagram works exactly like you said, but it wasn’t matching up with what I was seeing when looking at my vehicle and the result of pulling certain fuses.
Then I looked more closely at my service manual and noticed that there was a diagram for headlights for Canadian models and for some reason that diagram matched my vehicle and showed certain relays I found that weren’t in the first diagram.
Now I can see that with the highbeams off the 15A fuses are dead and do in fact run through a resistor and then to ground, with the highbeams on the 15A fuses are energized and a relay bypasses the resistor and sends the current straight to ground.
Shew the right diagram sure does make a difference hahaha 😆
Oh man I was pulling my hair out trying to understand that wiring diagram :S …the diagram works exactly like you said, but it wasn’t matching up with what I was seeing when looking at my vehicle and the result of pulling certain fuses.
Then I looked more closely at my service manual and noticed that there was a diagram for headlights for Canadian models and for some reason that diagram matched my vehicle and showed certain relays I found that weren’t in the first diagram.
Now I can see that with the highbeams off the 15A fuses are dead and do in fact run through a resistor and then to ground, with the highbeams on the 15A fuses are energized and a relay bypasses the resistor and sends the current straight to ground.
Shew the right diagram sure does make a difference hahaha 😆
That thought had crossed my mind, but I’m still confused about the behavior of this circuit…here’s a diagram
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=64820
PS the fuses are the two 15A at top centerThe fuse is reading green at all times (key on & off, fuse in & out, HL on & off)except it turns red when brights are on…pulling the fuse does nothing except it causes the headlight to go out when the brights are activated (i.e. disables brights)
What are your thoughts on that & when a car has fuses like this should I be using a DVM and just forget the probe?
That thought had crossed my mind, but I’m still confused about the behavior of this circuit…here’s a diagram
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=64820
PS the fuses are the two 15A at top centerThe fuse is reading green at all times (key on & off, fuse in & out, HL on & off)except it turns red when brights are on…pulling the fuse does nothing except it causes the headlight to go out when the brights are activated (i.e. disables brights)
What are your thoughts on that & when a car has fuses like this should I be using a DVM and just forget the probe?
[quote=”Raistian77″ post=77677]When you say “ground side” are you meaning the “load”side?
Not trying to be a smarty, but there really should not be a “ground side” to a fuse in that the fuse should be inline with the hot conductor.[/quote]
I mean that the fuse is on a ground not a hot…I know it’s weird but I have a car were the headlight fuses read green on both sides when probed and show 12V from fuse to batt + with a DVM. I’m going to examine the wiring diagram to see why that is…but I sure hope I’m not seeing things :whistle:
[quote=”Raistian77″ post=77677]When you say “ground side” are you meaning the “load”side?
Not trying to be a smarty, but there really should not be a “ground side” to a fuse in that the fuse should be inline with the hot conductor.[/quote]
I mean that the fuse is on a ground not a hot…I know it’s weird but I have a car were the headlight fuses read green on both sides when probed and show 12V from fuse to batt + with a DVM. I’m going to examine the wiring diagram to see why that is…but I sure hope I’m not seeing things :whistle:
[quote=”Tomh” post=77234]When you charge it, put in dye, and just enough gas to get the compressor up and running, then search for a leak with your black light.[/quote]
Will do…told him to get a can of 134 with dye already in it.
[quote=”ToyotaKarl” post=77236][quote=”JayMann07″ post=77230]So I think I’ll replace valves, caps, and drier and put a charge in it…I just hope I can find the leak if it’s as small as I think it is.[/quote]
I would recommend also replacing the O-rings where you find them… Give them a little lube with whatever refrigerant oil you are using….
Also, a good investment is a HF refrigerant leak detector if you are ever going to do this type of work in the future… Not a bad price at around $48 before tax with a 20%-25% discount coupon that is easily available… I have used it and it does work….
http://www.harborfreight.com/electronic-freon-and-halogen-leak-detector-92514.html
-Karl[/quote]
Thanks Karl…I do have a one of those detectors in that price range and they do work amazingly well. I plan to use that along with the dye and will try and report my findings. Im just really hoping it’s not evap. or cond. in some hard to see/reach place…we’ll give it a try anyway :whistle:
[quote=”Tomh” post=77234]When you charge it, put in dye, and just enough gas to get the compressor up and running, then search for a leak with your black light.[/quote]
Will do…told him to get a can of 134 with dye already in it.
[quote=”ToyotaKarl” post=77236][quote=”JayMann07″ post=77230]So I think I’ll replace valves, caps, and drier and put a charge in it…I just hope I can find the leak if it’s as small as I think it is.[/quote]
I would recommend also replacing the O-rings where you find them… Give them a little lube with whatever refrigerant oil you are using….
Also, a good investment is a HF refrigerant leak detector if you are ever going to do this type of work in the future… Not a bad price at around $48 before tax with a 20%-25% discount coupon that is easily available… I have used it and it does work….
http://www.harborfreight.com/electronic-freon-and-halogen-leak-detector-92514.html
-Karl[/quote]
Thanks Karl…I do have a one of those detectors in that price range and they do work amazingly well. I plan to use that along with the dye and will try and report my findings. Im just really hoping it’s not evap. or cond. in some hard to see/reach place…we’ll give it a try anyway :whistle:
So I think I’ll replace valves, caps, and drier and put a charge in it…I just hope I can find the leak if it’s as small as I think it is.
So I think I’ll replace valves, caps, and drier and put a charge in it…I just hope I can find the leak if it’s as small as I think it is.
[quote=”college man” post=77159]replace the shradder cores in the valves.If you dropping vacuum
then there is a leak. vacuum breaks easier than pressure.
check out this link.It may help you.[/quote]Thanks for the reply. What did you mean by “vacuum breaks easier…” you mean that a system may be better at holding pressure than a vacuum. Which I think I read somewhere (something about certain seals doing better under pressure than vacuum)
Didn’t see the link you posted
I’m a little confused about the vac test though…for example I think I remember Eric saying he would vac test a system for 1/2 hr…but in my case the leak didn’t show up at all until after 1-2 hrs. How how long is good enough
[quote=”college man” post=77159]replace the shradder cores in the valves.If you dropping vacuum
then there is a leak. vacuum breaks easier than pressure.
check out this link.It may help you.[/quote]Thanks for the reply. What did you mean by “vacuum breaks easier…” you mean that a system may be better at holding pressure than a vacuum. Which I think I read somewhere (something about certain seals doing better under pressure than vacuum)
Didn’t see the link you posted
I’m a little confused about the vac test though…for example I think I remember Eric saying he would vac test a system for 1/2 hr…but in my case the leak didn’t show up at all until after 1-2 hrs. How how long is good enough
Could it be a vacuum leak?…just thinking that maybe when your throttle is open the leak doesn’t show up because the throttle is open and the engine is getting all the air it needs. But when you stop the throttle is closed and after a few seconds the vacuum builds up and starts sucking air through a cracked hose, bad intake manifold gasket etc.
Could it be a vacuum leak?…just thinking that maybe when your throttle is open the leak doesn’t show up because the throttle is open and the engine is getting all the air it needs. But when you stop the throttle is closed and after a few seconds the vacuum builds up and starts sucking air through a cracked hose, bad intake manifold gasket etc.