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Well, I got it out today and lookie what I found!
Obviously I’ll be replacing that switch and probably the connector too(got to clean it at least).
I have confirmed this powers the Heater, Aux Heater, AC, and Power Windows. It also looks like the original 25 year old switch. What could have caused it to burn like this though, just age?
Well, I got it out today and lookie what I found!
Obviously I’ll be replacing that switch and probably the connector too(got to clean it at least).
I have confirmed this powers the Heater, Aux Heater, AC, and Power Windows. It also looks like the original 25 year old switch. What could have caused it to burn like this though, just age?
Yesterday I checked the fusible link connector to the Starter solenoid. The positive from the battery connected to this same bolt. The eyelet on the link was a little dirty so I filed it clean and put them back together and tightened it firmly. I didn’t start the car yesterday.
Today I checked the power in that fusebox connector and everything has power that it should. I checked our identical Chevy Burb that works and all the same pins had power. Previously my GMC only had power to 2 pins. So Apparently that fusible link must not have been getting a good connection.
After reconnecting things I tested on the fusebox side again. I got .01-.04 on the 3rd column fuses whether the key was in, on Accessories, or the car running. When I did the same test on the operating Chevy I got .01-.07 without the key but got a full 12.4v with the key on Accessories or 14+ with the car running.
So I’m thinking there might be an issue in the key switch or ignition switch preventing power from being sent to the accessories?
BTW, those diagrams are helpful, thank you.
Yesterday I checked the fusible link connector to the Starter solenoid. The positive from the battery connected to this same bolt. The eyelet on the link was a little dirty so I filed it clean and put them back together and tightened it firmly. I didn’t start the car yesterday.
Today I checked the power in that fusebox connector and everything has power that it should. I checked our identical Chevy Burb that works and all the same pins had power. Previously my GMC only had power to 2 pins. So Apparently that fusible link must not have been getting a good connection.
After reconnecting things I tested on the fusebox side again. I got .01-.04 on the 3rd column fuses whether the key was in, on Accessories, or the car running. When I did the same test on the operating Chevy I got .01-.07 without the key but got a full 12.4v with the key on Accessories or 14+ with the car running.
So I’m thinking there might be an issue in the key switch or ignition switch preventing power from being sent to the accessories?
BTW, those diagrams are helpful, thank you.