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Hmm now I am confused.
I watched a few wheel bearing replacements.
It looks like you just take off brake/caliper disconnect any suspension connecting to it, remove the dented nut holding it to the axle, push the axle in careful not to mushroom the top then the hub should be off? Than its just a matter of sticking it into a press and pressing the bearings out and pressing the new ones in?
I never knew what a hub snark is or a tamer. It looks like a tamer lets you do bearings without taking knuckle off or something? the other one from the video I saw I couldnt tell exactly what it was doing, it looked like it was just pushing itself off the axle. Crappy video ill have to search some more. Wouldnt the hydraulic press let me do similar just take longer?
I dont have one but my dad most likely does, seems to have everything needed to work on cars.
Looking at a few more videos that makes it look much easier to replace but not needed?
*edit*
also looks like they have knock offs of the hub tamer for under 100, might be an option at some point.Hmm now I am confused.
I watched a few wheel bearing replacements.
It looks like you just take off brake/caliper disconnect any suspension connecting to it, remove the dented nut holding it to the axle, push the axle in careful not to mushroom the top then the hub should be off? Than its just a matter of sticking it into a press and pressing the bearings out and pressing the new ones in?
I never knew what a hub snark is or a tamer. It looks like a tamer lets you do bearings without taking knuckle off or something? the other one from the video I saw I couldnt tell exactly what it was doing, it looked like it was just pushing itself off the axle. Crappy video ill have to search some more. Wouldnt the hydraulic press let me do similar just take longer?
I dont have one but my dad most likely does, seems to have everything needed to work on cars.
Looking at a few more videos that makes it look much easier to replace but not needed?
*edit*
also looks like they have knock offs of the hub tamer for under 100, might be an option at some point.Unless the search is broken for me there are no front hub assemblies on rockauto or any website that I can find. (plenty of rear, no forward) Ill recheck again I may of missed em, thanks 🙂
Moneys tight I will probably pick up the struts and get just the bearings so its cheaper. May be more work but once Ive done it next time itll be faster.
*edit*
I found a front hub without a bearing. I couldnt find a front hub with bearing. I may still be missing it =/
Yeah about 16 for front hub, 20 for bearing thats not too bad at all. Cant wait for payday cause those crazy internet people dont take cash yet 🙁Unless the search is broken for me there are no front hub assemblies on rockauto or any website that I can find. (plenty of rear, no forward) Ill recheck again I may of missed em, thanks 🙂
Moneys tight I will probably pick up the struts and get just the bearings so its cheaper. May be more work but once Ive done it next time itll be faster.
*edit*
I found a front hub without a bearing. I couldnt find a front hub with bearing. I may still be missing it =/
Yeah about 16 for front hub, 20 for bearing thats not too bad at all. Cant wait for payday cause those crazy internet people dont take cash yet 🙁They said they cant replicate the issue the tech I was working with does not work on Saturdays. (I guess they are half staff on weekends) so no ride along yet. They tested fuel pressure checked the trims and quite a bit of other things, all were fine.
I guess the horrible intermittant grinding noise Ive been hearing is the wheel bearings according to them atleast in part, its a combination of that and bad struts and loose strut mounts. (I knew the struts were bad but didnt know theyd contribute to grinding, just a crappy ride)
428 dollars for both front wheel bearings replaced 🙁 Ill have to do that myself.
116 to do the belts. they are cracked, im having them do it for me monday, its only an hour of labor and i dont want to make sure things are aligned when I install the belt. Lucky I bought a 5 dollar scratchit with a pack of cigs to make it an even 10 and won 100 bucks, so thats paying for the belt.
They didnt have the quotes ready on the rest of the parts/labor but to me 4 hours for wheel bearings seems excessive I can remove both hubs in an hour or so 3 hours for replace and reinstall seems excessive but I dont know I havent removed bearings myself before. (we have all the tools)
So grinding issue seems to be solved a combination of struts, mounts, bearings and they said a loose tie rod but i didnt see that at all when I was looking and I still dont. Will know when I replace the bearings and struts if its been fixed for sure.
Still no luck at all with the power issue 🙁
*edit*
Im an idiot, its not a head gasket leak but a valve gasket leak. Its something I already saw but didnt care because whats leaked out from it already is old and has other crap on it, its not leaked since I bought it. They said its not a bad leak at all and not making much a difference in anything, just something to replace.They said they cant replicate the issue the tech I was working with does not work on Saturdays. (I guess they are half staff on weekends) so no ride along yet. They tested fuel pressure checked the trims and quite a bit of other things, all were fine.
I guess the horrible intermittant grinding noise Ive been hearing is the wheel bearings according to them atleast in part, its a combination of that and bad struts and loose strut mounts. (I knew the struts were bad but didnt know theyd contribute to grinding, just a crappy ride)
428 dollars for both front wheel bearings replaced 🙁 Ill have to do that myself.
116 to do the belts. they are cracked, im having them do it for me monday, its only an hour of labor and i dont want to make sure things are aligned when I install the belt. Lucky I bought a 5 dollar scratchit with a pack of cigs to make it an even 10 and won 100 bucks, so thats paying for the belt.
They didnt have the quotes ready on the rest of the parts/labor but to me 4 hours for wheel bearings seems excessive I can remove both hubs in an hour or so 3 hours for replace and reinstall seems excessive but I dont know I havent removed bearings myself before. (we have all the tools)
So grinding issue seems to be solved a combination of struts, mounts, bearings and they said a loose tie rod but i didnt see that at all when I was looking and I still dont. Will know when I replace the bearings and struts if its been fixed for sure.
Still no luck at all with the power issue 🙁
*edit*
Im an idiot, its not a head gasket leak but a valve gasket leak. Its something I already saw but didnt care because whats leaked out from it already is old and has other crap on it, its not leaked since I bought it. They said its not a bad leak at all and not making much a difference in anything, just something to replace.I am taking one of the techs on a ride along tomorrow morning before work. They quoted me 80 for diagnostic and quotes on the issue and now say I only have to pay 40 because they havent found the problem.
You can replicate the issue on any hill, halfway up or 1/4 of the way up you have to give it 3x more pedal push to go the speed you were, RPMs never go above 3000 in drive. Its driven right before and gone up the hill without having to push the pedal extra much at all and the sound of the car is much cleaner, no vibrations no exhaust sounding like BRRRRRRRR. Once you do that the car feels sluggish for the rest of the drive. (gunning it wont give that pep, youll hear the exhaust sound twice as loud and pick up speed but flooring it doesnt spike the RPMs like a normal car does.)
They do say a wheel bearing is why its grinding. (odd but could be right, we couldnt replicate the sound/grind when it wasnt driving and there was no play, it may of had to of been at just the right angle to start grinding and then correct itself shortly after) I am sure in a shop they have a way of checking.
Slight head gasket leak, I understand that can cause some issues but I doubt its the cause of my RPM issue unless that slight leak was more than slight.
Im not throwing parts 🙂 I had to borrow against my next check just to pay for the diagnostic and planned to do most if not all of the repairs myself to save money. So headgaskets ive never done but I am sure I can figure it out as most things on cars are common sense. (same as computers) I may give them some business if they can tell me why my car doesnt operate properly.
Thanks for the input! Hoping to get atleast some of the cars gremlins gone soon 🙂
I am taking one of the techs on a ride along tomorrow morning before work. They quoted me 80 for diagnostic and quotes on the issue and now say I only have to pay 40 because they havent found the problem.
You can replicate the issue on any hill, halfway up or 1/4 of the way up you have to give it 3x more pedal push to go the speed you were, RPMs never go above 3000 in drive. Its driven right before and gone up the hill without having to push the pedal extra much at all and the sound of the car is much cleaner, no vibrations no exhaust sounding like BRRRRRRRR. Once you do that the car feels sluggish for the rest of the drive. (gunning it wont give that pep, youll hear the exhaust sound twice as loud and pick up speed but flooring it doesnt spike the RPMs like a normal car does.)
They do say a wheel bearing is why its grinding. (odd but could be right, we couldnt replicate the sound/grind when it wasnt driving and there was no play, it may of had to of been at just the right angle to start grinding and then correct itself shortly after) I am sure in a shop they have a way of checking.
Slight head gasket leak, I understand that can cause some issues but I doubt its the cause of my RPM issue unless that slight leak was more than slight.
Im not throwing parts 🙂 I had to borrow against my next check just to pay for the diagnostic and planned to do most if not all of the repairs myself to save money. So headgaskets ive never done but I am sure I can figure it out as most things on cars are common sense. (same as computers) I may give them some business if they can tell me why my car doesnt operate properly.
Thanks for the input! Hoping to get atleast some of the cars gremlins gone soon 🙂
Transmission would explain both the noise and RPM issue. But other than that it seems to drive fine and sometimes no grind/no power loss its weird.
The front brakes are great, one back drum brake doesnt spin as freely as the other side (I believe it was rear passenger spins less freely) my dad looked at it and said it was normal, I opened it up found nothing wrong inside. I know the parking brake needs to be adjusted sligtly so it picks up full force a few clicks sooner but other than that they looked good. Ill check the cable tomorrow when I get the car back, could be that! Would be nice. Brakes in front are worn evenly (fairly new pads) the drum brakes are worn evenly as well but I admit I dont know much about drum brakes. (they still had plenty of pad and both were the same)
Sometimes the car isnt gutless is my problem ive seen how it CAN drive. On the rare occurance (1 in 20 times of driving if that) the car runs perfect, no extra noise or anything when i push the pedal down, the rpms climb faster and higher (up to 3500 or so) and going up hills I barely push the gas its got plenty of power. Normally I have the pedal just barely depressed until halfway up than push it to halfway or ill lose power and drop speed very very fast. I can push it further down, RPMs barely go up and I pick up more speed like if it was driving well its just the car sounds like shit like the exhaust is split.
Wheel bearings I keep coming back to as I havent taken them out to physically inspect. Last time on a van they went bad it was a constant vibration and worse in turns. This one just randomly does it going strait or turning its just worse when turning. I am worried it has to do with the car heating up and being the transmission.
Its a real pain when there are no codes and everything is checked out to be working fine 🙁 Shoulda saved the money of the diagnostic (which so far tells me my car is fine, didnt even mention the grinding which is surprising) and bought some new CV’s to rule that out.
Transmission would explain both the noise and RPM issue. But other than that it seems to drive fine and sometimes no grind/no power loss its weird.
The front brakes are great, one back drum brake doesnt spin as freely as the other side (I believe it was rear passenger spins less freely) my dad looked at it and said it was normal, I opened it up found nothing wrong inside. I know the parking brake needs to be adjusted sligtly so it picks up full force a few clicks sooner but other than that they looked good. Ill check the cable tomorrow when I get the car back, could be that! Would be nice. Brakes in front are worn evenly (fairly new pads) the drum brakes are worn evenly as well but I admit I dont know much about drum brakes. (they still had plenty of pad and both were the same)
Sometimes the car isnt gutless is my problem ive seen how it CAN drive. On the rare occurance (1 in 20 times of driving if that) the car runs perfect, no extra noise or anything when i push the pedal down, the rpms climb faster and higher (up to 3500 or so) and going up hills I barely push the gas its got plenty of power. Normally I have the pedal just barely depressed until halfway up than push it to halfway or ill lose power and drop speed very very fast. I can push it further down, RPMs barely go up and I pick up more speed like if it was driving well its just the car sounds like shit like the exhaust is split.
Wheel bearings I keep coming back to as I havent taken them out to physically inspect. Last time on a van they went bad it was a constant vibration and worse in turns. This one just randomly does it going strait or turning its just worse when turning. I am worried it has to do with the car heating up and being the transmission.
Its a real pain when there are no codes and everything is checked out to be working fine 🙁 Shoulda saved the money of the diagnostic (which so far tells me my car is fine, didnt even mention the grinding which is surprising) and bought some new CV’s to rule that out.
No play at all in the hubs, no play in cv joints. No grease coming from anywhere to indicate any kind of leak in the front end. Surprisingly almost all of it looks new. Fuel pressure is good, they tested it as part of the diagnostic today. Sparks good, compression good. They tell me the car is fine so I re-explained what was wrong and they still have it. The car drives similar to my moms car power wise, hers is a gutless piece of crap but atleast you can floor it, get a ton of power and your RPMs jump up not just a slow crawl to a stop.
Thanks for input 619 🙂
No play at all in the hubs, no play in cv joints. No grease coming from anywhere to indicate any kind of leak in the front end. Surprisingly almost all of it looks new. Fuel pressure is good, they tested it as part of the diagnostic today. Sparks good, compression good. They tell me the car is fine so I re-explained what was wrong and they still have it. The car drives similar to my moms car power wise, hers is a gutless piece of crap but atleast you can floor it, get a ton of power and your RPMs jump up not just a slow crawl to a stop.
Thanks for input 619 🙂
Exhaust place tested the cat and exhaust no restrictions. Took it to a car repair shop, they test drove asked me what was wrong with it because they couldnt find anything.
Yay.
Exhaust place tested the cat and exhaust no restrictions. Took it to a car repair shop, they test drove asked me what was wrong with it because they couldnt find anything.
Yay.
Was this ever fixed?
I had the same issue when I flushed.
I ended up figuring out it was an air pocket. Squeezing the hoses to remove air didnt help (as suggested online)
I had to re-flush and problem was solved. At some point during the first flush I must of done something that let a little air in before/after I had flushed with water.
If you get a new thermostat make sure the temp range is the same as the one you had before. Ive gotten slightly different ones and I dont know if it changes anything (other than temp it opens) but it bothers the crap out of me if my temp gauge doesnt always do the same thing.