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Used a scantool, PCM is sending correct RPM the gauge just isnt always listening. Something loose in the cluster.
Thanks!
Is there still oil on the plugs after the gasket change? Was the valve gasket the original problem? Other seals/gaskets can fail under the valve cover and cause the same issue, oil on the plug and hard starts/no starts.
No codes? Sorry I cant be of much help except 1 suggestion.
Any oil on any of the spark plugs?
My valve gasket went out and that happen to me, fine and then just a horrible time getting it to start. Was oil leaking through gasket onto plug 1 and its boot.I am sure someone more knowledgeable will come along.
I somehow introduced an air bubble *not sure where in the system* when doing a flush. It gave the exact same symptoms (it was a 96 ford taurus)
My temp gauge was fine too, until the head gaskets blew going up a hill, then the temp gauge went up. But not before the head gasket blew. The gauge was fine because it wasnt moving coolant over the sensor, so itd heat up, go to about mid range on the gauge like it normally does and just sit in the middle until it cooled down. I think the gauge went up when I blew a gasket because fluid was going everywhere.
Erics post, checking coolant system would be your best bet.
Ill just drive it into the dirt and replace it with something newer in a few months. Getting very tired of the sluggish-ness and all its other little issues. Older car, not worth throwing money at it. Well, more than I already have.
Thanks all for the responses on the initial thread.
As the others said, yes its a stop leak product. Its probably water because it was leaking so bad they didnt want to waste the money putting 50/50 mix coolant.
How does your oil look? Is it clean? Black? chunky? milkshakey?
I had a leak once from radiator, kept using water only because I was cheap. Fast forward 2 weeks, going up a hill and kept trying to give it more gas (I was slowing down) and poof! I shielded everyone from the sun behind me with white smoke on the freeway. Water only would cause more pressure and maybe air pockets.
I gave it to a place to sell for me, I told them what was wrong with it. They put stop leak in (same as yours, the copper kind) refilled the radiator and called it good. Im guessing whoever you got it from probably did the same thing, blew gasket, put in stop leak and sold it figuring itd last you a few weeks. (I did make sure the new owners knew why the car was only 700 dollars)
First thing I would do is add the UV dye to the radiator fluid, run it a bit and find out where the leak is coming from. You may have a blown headgasket and there might be more issues. If its coming from the headgasket that makes it pretty easy.
I dont know the time to do it =/ Ive done it before but not on that type of car and the time varies alot.
For sure it ended up being the nut.
I still have power issues though. =/
Hoping someone read through this and has some new ideas?
My car started studdering when accelerating, oil in one of the spark plug wells. (misfiring but no codes and making it impossible to accelerate unless you feathered the pedal just right and got it to catch) Finally replaced the valve gaket and that solved the problem. (whoever put it on before didnt tighten one of the center nuts enough, letting it bend/push the gasket and leak oil via a screw hole.) I had no more studdering for 2 weeks. Now I have only on acceleration a single chug once in awhile. Annoying but car is driveable. (before the gasket the car was not, you couldnt accelerate)
and for the RPM issue, I re-replaced most of the common tune up parts;
I replaced the spark plug wires, spark plugs (tried 2 gap ranges, no difference with either), air filter, changed oil, oil filter, 1 bottle of heet + injector cleaner (2 full tanks), cleaned maf. I know ive replaced more but cant think of it offhand. Just the basics.Any ideas? Thanks!
*edit*
I dont think I made it very clear. Car still has a seemingly 3000 RPM cap on it and runs wrong imho. The chug when accelerating is what the car is doing extra now, about a month after the valve gasket replacement. Trying to get rid of that single chug now.I do know that I think its the evap hose? that goes to that charcoal canister on the firewall is bent or plugged, we vaccum tested the lines going to and from the charcoal canister and the one leading from the tank was blocked. (we were checking for leaks) but from all of what I read that should not be causing my issue. Its been blocked since last January when I high centered on some snow, atleast thats when I figured I crushed the line. (or its been crushed since I bought the car)
We vacuum tested every line that we could that was air and all held vacuum (no leaks) except that one evap hose that is blocked.
Car is a pain in the butt 😛 Never really seems to fully die but never runs well. It even ran with that bad oil leak under the valve cover, just sometimes it would take 10 minutes to start the car and then wouldnt move unless you got the pedal just right.
Thanks for reading! Hoping to get it fixed before end of next month so I dont convince myself I need a new car. Dont want to spend the money on a new car but always worrying about the one your driving is very taxing on your nerves.
When did it start? Did it happen after an event? Did you change the tires and have all that done because of the vibration or did it happen after?
Another thing to check is make sure the axle nut is on all the way.
When I got my Kia, 2 shops told me it was wheel bearings so I bought some to put in (they wanted way too much for the work and its not very hard or time consuming) upon removing the hub I realized the nut wasnt tightened at all, not even hand tight. Someone just spun it and then dented the nut to keep it in place. Wasnt a problem until higher speeds and the it would vibrate.Other than that it seems you covered most basic things. Bulges in tire, out of round tire, needing an alignment. Did you have anyone check out your suspension? My sisters car had a vibration and it ended up being one of the suspension parts. (I forget its name off hand, one of the metal arms connected to the tire hub, stabilizer bar?) Are the struts/shocks still good? Ive read of those causing vibration too.
Good luck.
40 minute drive didnt happen once.
Looks to be fixed.
I still think it was the nut not a bearing. You cant imagine my surprise when we opened that first bearing and there was absolutly nothing wrong with it. 😛40 minute drive didnt happen once.
Looks to be fixed.
I still think it was the nut not a bearing. You cant imagine my surprise when we opened that first bearing and there was absolutly nothing wrong with it. 😛Replaced both the front wheel bearings.
Car has less road noise, less hum. We drove it about 3 miles and have not heard the grinding back. Going on a longer drive now to see if its gone.
Still cant figure out why I cant go over 3k RPM but auto shop says its normal.
Bearings were alot easier to replace than I thought, did use a hydraulic press. Took about 2 and a half hours to complete the job. Really kind of makes me wonder why the auto shop says 4+ hours for this repair when I can do it in nearly half the time and im looking for the tools I need most of the time.
Left wheel bearing did not seem to have any problem at all, no grinding and looked good. The one issue we found that may of been causing the horrible grinding we heard was the nut on the end of the axle. I bent the depressed tab up, put the socket on the nut put my foot on it to begin to stand on it to break it free and the socket fell to the ground before I put any weight on it. We unthreaded the rest of it by hand. The other side was on slightly better but I was able to use just my hand and not have to push very hard at all to break it free. The right side had rust in it, made a dry grind noise while spinning, the retainer ring was also only halfway on. This car has service records for the CV replacements only a few years ago and they didnt torge them at all. No service records for the bearings so I dont know who screwed up putting a retaining ring on.
Thanks all for the help will update in a few days if the grind is fully gone.
Replaced both the front wheel bearings.
Car has less road noise, less hum. We drove it about 3 miles and have not heard the grinding back. Going on a longer drive now to see if its gone.
Still cant figure out why I cant go over 3k RPM but auto shop says its normal.
Bearings were alot easier to replace than I thought, did use a hydraulic press. Took about 2 and a half hours to complete the job. Really kind of makes me wonder why the auto shop says 4+ hours for this repair when I can do it in nearly half the time and im looking for the tools I need most of the time.
Left wheel bearing did not seem to have any problem at all, no grinding and looked good. The one issue we found that may of been causing the horrible grinding we heard was the nut on the end of the axle. I bent the depressed tab up, put the socket on the nut put my foot on it to begin to stand on it to break it free and the socket fell to the ground before I put any weight on it. We unthreaded the rest of it by hand. The other side was on slightly better but I was able to use just my hand and not have to push very hard at all to break it free. The right side had rust in it, made a dry grind noise while spinning, the retainer ring was also only halfway on. This car has service records for the CV replacements only a few years ago and they didnt torge them at all. No service records for the bearings so I dont know who screwed up putting a retaining ring on.
Thanks all for the help will update in a few days if the grind is fully gone.
That doesnt sound too bad, I hope its the clock itself.
Will have to head to pick n pull to see what theyve got available 🙂 Thanks
That doesnt sound too bad, I hope its the clock itself.
Will have to head to pick n pull to see what theyve got available 🙂 Thanks