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[quote=”college man” post=58093]see if this helps.
My alternator belt broke, so in order to get the new one on you must first remove the other two belts (power steering and A/C compressor). So far, I’ve taken on the power steering belt but I’m stuck removing the A/C compressor belt.
The link you posted is for the alternator belt. I’m confident I’ll have no issue with this repair once I get past confirming the bolt I need to loosen for the A/C compressor belt removal, or if I am looking at the right bolt, figuring out how to break it loose without air tools and only a few inches of clearance in any direction.
[quote=”college man” post=58093]see if this helps.
My alternator belt broke, so in order to get the new one on you must first remove the other two belts (power steering and A/C compressor). So far, I’ve taken on the power steering belt but I’m stuck removing the A/C compressor belt.
The link you posted is for the alternator belt. I’m confident I’ll have no issue with this repair once I get past confirming the bolt I need to loosen for the A/C compressor belt removal, or if I am looking at the right bolt, figuring out how to break it loose without air tools and only a few inches of clearance in any direction.
I was able to work on this over the weekend. In order to install the new alternator belt, I have to take off the other two belts (power steering pump belt and A/C compressor belt).
I have the first belt off (power steering) and I’m trying to get the A/C compressor belt off now. I realize this is a very specific question, but I’m struggling with finding the correct A/C compressor pivot bolt to loosen up in order to begin working on the A/C compressor tension rod.
These older Honda’s don’t have the modern serpentine belt tension setup where you stick in the male 3/8″ drive (or serpentine belt breaker bar tool) and release tension on the belt. They use a 10mm 5-sided hex rod threaded into a bracket; you turn the hex rod to release tension. But first, you must loosen up pivot bolts before releasing tension using the adjustment hex rod.
After looking over the area where it should be, my best guess is that it’s the 14mm bolt with the head facing towards the opposite side of the car (pointing towards the battery), right next to the oil dipstick tube and oxygen sensor. Normally I’d simply loosen it up and see if it’s the right bolt, but I’ve struggled getting this bolt out due to A/C lines going into the compressor blocking the movement of my ratchet and wrenches and its rusted up. I’ve already removed the oxygen sensor, but I simply ran out of daylight before I could try more methods to remove the bolt. If I could work on this anytime soon, I’d just keep trying, but since I don’t have enough free time for the next several days, I wanted to post here and see if I hit the bolt jackpot on the forums. 😀
I found one video on YouTube that helps with this job, but the one pivot bolt I’m having trouble with is the bolt in the video where the camera didn’t really pick it up (at least I can’t tell which bolt it is). I sent a message to the video producer, but he doesn’t have that car anymore to check for me.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hcsRBtn0iHQ – Part 1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-qSTfdzeTqE – Part 2Video 2 at 0:20 is the bolt I can’t figure out location wise due to the shadow/zoom/focus of the camera.
Here are pictures of the bolt in question. I’ve tried every ratchet, wrench, extension, universal joint, and pry bar I have to try and get some leverage to loosen it up. I don’t have any air/power tools such as an air ratchet to use.
The general area: http://i.imgur.com/qtNIMOC.jpg
The tube in the image below is the oil dip stick tube; you can see the dip stick handle in the picture above for a good reference.
Closest: http://i.imgur.com/CvZ2mTT.jpg
This is a smaller version of the image of the bolt pointing out exactly which one I’m talking about: http://i.imgur.com/AMFzY90.jpg
Front-side image of belt area: http://i.imgur.com/rlBKFYW.jpg
I was able to work on this over the weekend. In order to install the new alternator belt, I have to take off the other two belts (power steering pump belt and A/C compressor belt).
I have the first belt off (power steering) and I’m trying to get the A/C compressor belt off now. I realize this is a very specific question, but I’m struggling with finding the correct A/C compressor pivot bolt to loosen up in order to begin working on the A/C compressor tension rod.
These older Honda’s don’t have the modern serpentine belt tension setup where you stick in the male 3/8″ drive (or serpentine belt breaker bar tool) and release tension on the belt. They use a 10mm 5-sided hex rod threaded into a bracket; you turn the hex rod to release tension. But first, you must loosen up pivot bolts before releasing tension using the adjustment hex rod.
After looking over the area where it should be, my best guess is that it’s the 14mm bolt with the head facing towards the opposite side of the car (pointing towards the battery), right next to the oil dipstick tube and oxygen sensor. Normally I’d simply loosen it up and see if it’s the right bolt, but I’ve struggled getting this bolt out due to A/C lines going into the compressor blocking the movement of my ratchet and wrenches and its rusted up. I’ve already removed the oxygen sensor, but I simply ran out of daylight before I could try more methods to remove the bolt. If I could work on this anytime soon, I’d just keep trying, but since I don’t have enough free time for the next several days, I wanted to post here and see if I hit the bolt jackpot on the forums. 😀
I found one video on YouTube that helps with this job, but the one pivot bolt I’m having trouble with is the bolt in the video where the camera didn’t really pick it up (at least I can’t tell which bolt it is). I sent a message to the video producer, but he doesn’t have that car anymore to check for me.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hcsRBtn0iHQ – Part 1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-qSTfdzeTqE – Part 2Video 2 at 0:20 is the bolt I can’t figure out location wise due to the shadow/zoom/focus of the camera.
Here are pictures of the bolt in question. I’ve tried every ratchet, wrench, extension, universal joint, and pry bar I have to try and get some leverage to loosen it up. I don’t have any air/power tools such as an air ratchet to use.
The general area: http://i.imgur.com/qtNIMOC.jpg
The tube in the image below is the oil dip stick tube; you can see the dip stick handle in the picture above for a good reference.
Closest: http://i.imgur.com/CvZ2mTT.jpg
This is a smaller version of the image of the bolt pointing out exactly which one I’m talking about: http://i.imgur.com/AMFzY90.jpg
Front-side image of belt area: http://i.imgur.com/rlBKFYW.jpg
Well, you guys won’t believe this one.
I forgot to mention my battery also died, but I thought nothing of it because I haven’t started the car in months and I think there’s a small power drain on the power lock system as I hear them cycle (without actually unlocking/locking) while walking by the car occasionally. I’ll be looking into that soon once the more major issues are fixed.
Anyway, I was going to school in about 10 minutes and I wanted to see if the car is charging properly using a float charger I purchased for $19. Then I see it. There’s a broken belt just handing there right by the smallest belt. It’s the alternator belt.
– Battery went dead.
– Car overheating within a few minutes of starting.The alternator belt powers the alternator obviously, but also the water pump.
I feel like shit wasting your time when such an obvious problem wasn’t noticed.
Is there any potential secondary damage from the belt being broken and the car running? The really weird thing is the belts on this car (including timing belt) were changed a few thousand miles ago at most and the belt is torn unevenly but it does in fact look and feel like a brand new Dayco branded belt.
Thanks as always!
Well, you guys won’t believe this one.
I forgot to mention my battery also died, but I thought nothing of it because I haven’t started the car in months and I think there’s a small power drain on the power lock system as I hear them cycle (without actually unlocking/locking) while walking by the car occasionally. I’ll be looking into that soon once the more major issues are fixed.
Anyway, I was going to school in about 10 minutes and I wanted to see if the car is charging properly using a float charger I purchased for $19. Then I see it. There’s a broken belt just handing there right by the smallest belt. It’s the alternator belt.
– Battery went dead.
– Car overheating within a few minutes of starting.The alternator belt powers the alternator obviously, but also the water pump.
I feel like shit wasting your time when such an obvious problem wasn’t noticed.
Is there any potential secondary damage from the belt being broken and the car running? The really weird thing is the belts on this car (including timing belt) were changed a few thousand miles ago at most and the belt is torn unevenly but it does in fact look and feel like a brand new Dayco branded belt.
Thanks as always!
Yes, the steam cloud was about two minutes after a completely cold start.
Just an update: I already had the exhaust gas/radiator test kit, so I dug it out of the closet and the results were negative. The test liquid remained blue. Then I performed the backup test of of breathing into my hand and sucking up the exhaled breath and the test liquid turned color, so it looks like it was all in order and there’s just no exhaust gasses in the radiator.
Also, the coolant is not milky or cloudy.
I guess I’ll just start from the beginning and go from there (Eric’s video). I was hoping for that magic tip where someone has these exact conditions and they could tell me what was the most likely culprit. Is there any great method to test a water pump?
Thanks!
Yes, the steam cloud was about two minutes after a completely cold start.
Just an update: I already had the exhaust gas/radiator test kit, so I dug it out of the closet and the results were negative. The test liquid remained blue. Then I performed the backup test of of breathing into my hand and sucking up the exhaled breath and the test liquid turned color, so it looks like it was all in order and there’s just no exhaust gasses in the radiator.
Also, the coolant is not milky or cloudy.
I guess I’ll just start from the beginning and go from there (Eric’s video). I was hoping for that magic tip where someone has these exact conditions and they could tell me what was the most likely culprit. Is there any great method to test a water pump?
Thanks!
I forgot to mention, I already thought it was the adapter itself so I’m on my second kit with the same results.
I forgot to mention, I already thought it was the adapter itself so I’m on my second kit with the same results.
Based on Eric’s video, I attempted to pressure test the radiator using this kit: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003V9L05G/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00
I’ve tested the connections five times, followed the instructions word-for-word, made sure the adapter was as snug as possible, confirmed the hand pump works by building up the pressure with my finger on the end of the tubing, and no matter what I’ve tried I simply can’t get the pressure to build when the adapter is connected to the radiator. It doesn’t even move a tiny bit.
This tells me there’s zero pressure in a supposedly sealed system. What would the more experienced tech do next based on this result?
Thanks.
Based on Eric’s video, I attempted to pressure test the radiator using this kit: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003V9L05G/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00
I’ve tested the connections five times, followed the instructions word-for-word, made sure the adapter was as snug as possible, confirmed the hand pump works by building up the pressure with my finger on the end of the tubing, and no matter what I’ve tried I simply can’t get the pressure to build when the adapter is connected to the radiator. It doesn’t even move a tiny bit.
This tells me there’s zero pressure in a supposedly sealed system. What would the more experienced tech do next based on this result?
Thanks.
An update and a question.
I decided to replace the thermostat and thermostat gasket since the system was low on fluid already (therefore didn’t need draining), thermostat’s are pretty cheap, and there’s a lot of visible corrosion at the radiator cap.
There were three options from Honda for a 1987 Honda LX Manual 5 Speed Thermostat:
- 19300-PB2-817 THERMOSTAT UNIT (88) (NIPPON THERMOSTAT
- 19300-PB2-024 THERMOSTAT UNIT (82) (FUJI SEIKO)
- 19300-PB2-004 THERMOSTAT UNIT
I didn’t know which one to get, so I went with the first one, the 88 degree Nippon unit. It turns out it is similar but not EXACTLY the same to the existing thermostat I took out. I installed it anyway since there was only about 20 minutes of daylight left and I’m not driving the car anytime soon.
Of course after I ordered, I checked the manual (why didn’t I check this before ordering?) and I believe it shows 82 degrees as ideal even though it also has 88 degrees in the table, but I’m not sure why the table is formatted as it is.
Does anyone know whether or not this thermostat will work OK, or should I buy the 82 degree one?
Below are some pictures.
Thank you for any help as always.
An update and a question.
I decided to replace the thermostat and thermostat gasket since the system was low on fluid already (therefore didn’t need draining), thermostat’s are pretty cheap, and there’s a lot of visible corrosion at the radiator cap.
There were three options from Honda for a 1987 Honda LX Manual 5 Speed Thermostat:
- 19300-PB2-817 THERMOSTAT UNIT (88) (NIPPON THERMOSTAT
- 19300-PB2-024 THERMOSTAT UNIT (82) (FUJI SEIKO)
- 19300-PB2-004 THERMOSTAT UNIT
I didn’t know which one to get, so I went with the first one, the 88 degree Nippon unit. It turns out it is similar but not EXACTLY the same to the existing thermostat I took out. I installed it anyway since there was only about 20 minutes of daylight left and I’m not driving the car anytime soon.
Of course after I ordered, I checked the manual (why didn’t I check this before ordering?) and I believe it shows 82 degrees as ideal even though it also has 88 degrees in the table, but I’m not sure why the table is formatted as it is.
Does anyone know whether or not this thermostat will work OK, or should I buy the 82 degree one?
Below are some pictures.
Thank you for any help as always.
Thanks for all of your help! It was my lack of knowledge and inexperience that resulted in my problem.
It was the pin locked into place via rust and not sliding. I also saw a tear in the rubber piece, so I replaced all of the rubber seals, that pin sleeve that was stuck, which I was forced to remove with a torch, hammer, and tapered punch. I finally got my first brake all assembled with new parts and while I can’t really test it yet until others are completed and I bleed the brakes/get fluid situated, I can move the rotor with my hand freely so it all appears to be in good order.
I also managed to get the other brake caliper assembly and will work on that indoors later tonight.
Thanks so much once again, I’m sure I’ll be back here someday soon. Within 1-2 years I’m taking auto tech classes at the community college, so I can’t wait for that.
