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I don’t believe so. This is the same camshaft that came out of the car before it died. I Rebuilt the whole cylinder head with new valves, valve seals, springs, etc.
This cylinder head is a used one off of EBAY. It is identical to the old cylinder head in every aspect. I’ve been told by a few people at the Honda dealership that this does happen sometimes with that rear cam sprocket and you do have to hold it when it happens. I’m gonna see what happens this weekend when I go out there again and I’ll report back what happens.
I don’t believe so. This is the same camshaft that came out of the car before it died. I Rebuilt the whole cylinder head with new valves, valve seals, springs, etc.
This cylinder head is a used one off of EBAY. It is identical to the old cylinder head in every aspect. I’ve been told by a few people at the Honda dealership that this does happen sometimes with that rear cam sprocket and you do have to hold it when it happens. I’m gonna see what happens this weekend when I go out there again and I’ll report back what happens.
Remove that junk from your cooling system immediately. If there’s any chance it will mess up that water pump/ thermostat it is if you leave it in there. Now, the guy should have never used the stuff in the first place.. Does Honda/Chevrolet/Dodge put stop leak in the coolant when they install their new cylinder heads at the factory? Hell No. So he shouldn’t be either.
If he will do it for free, let him do it. ( If you still trust him). Or if you are capable of doing it, flush the cooling system completely. And use the proper coolant for the vehicle and bleed the system.
Remove that junk from your cooling system immediately. If there’s any chance it will mess up that water pump/ thermostat it is if you leave it in there. Now, the guy should have never used the stuff in the first place.. Does Honda/Chevrolet/Dodge put stop leak in the coolant when they install their new cylinder heads at the factory? Hell No. So he shouldn’t be either.
If he will do it for free, let him do it. ( If you still trust him). Or if you are capable of doing it, flush the cooling system completely. And use the proper coolant for the vehicle and bleed the system.
How bout this one for your Eric….
I have a 1998 Acura CL 3.0 B7ZA automatic transmission that flares on the 1-2 shift when cold and bangs on the 2-1 shift randomly..i.e. – doesn’t have to do with temperature on the 2-1 bang.
What would your best guess be? Internal/mechanical problem? Electronic control problem (solenoid, CPC Valve, clutch pressure switch) ? Or hydraulic/pressure problem…. I guess the internal/hydraulic are kind of the same I guess…
How bout this one for your Eric….
I have a 1998 Acura CL 3.0 B7ZA automatic transmission that flares on the 1-2 shift when cold and bangs on the 2-1 shift randomly..i.e. – doesn’t have to do with temperature on the 2-1 bang.
What would your best guess be? Internal/mechanical problem? Electronic control problem (solenoid, CPC Valve, clutch pressure switch) ? Or hydraulic/pressure problem…. I guess the internal/hydraulic are kind of the same I guess…
Im guessing were dealing with an automatic transmission here but you didn’t specify…
The first thing to check would be the Transmission fluid. Make sure you check it the right way the manufacturer specifies. It might be with the car running in park, or in neutral. Or it could be with the car off but warmed up. Be a little more specific on your problem if you have any more questions.Im guessing were dealing with an automatic transmission here but you didn’t specify…
The first thing to check would be the Transmission fluid. Make sure you check it the right way the manufacturer specifies. It might be with the car running in park, or in neutral. Or it could be with the car off but warmed up. Be a little more specific on your problem if you have any more questions.There is not an alignment hole, but there is two bolts that go into the rear cover behind the camshaft pulleys. I backed those out to hold the camshaft pulley in place so I could torque the camshaft pulley bolts (67 lb-ft.)
I watched the video’s the previous poster posted from Real Fixes and they use zip ties for a different reason then what I am trying to accomplish but I think I’m going to be able to hold the pulley anyway.
I’m trying to hold the camshaft pulley in TDC position with the belt not even on the engine at all. Not hold the timing belt onto the camshaft pulley teeth to keep it from slipping/changing time.
There is not an alignment hole, but there is two bolts that go into the rear cover behind the camshaft pulleys. I backed those out to hold the camshaft pulley in place so I could torque the camshaft pulley bolts (67 lb-ft.)
I watched the video’s the previous poster posted from Real Fixes and they use zip ties for a different reason then what I am trying to accomplish but I think I’m going to be able to hold the pulley anyway.
I’m trying to hold the camshaft pulley in TDC position with the belt not even on the engine at all. Not hold the timing belt onto the camshaft pulley teeth to keep it from slipping/changing time.