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[quote=”johnbkobb” post=53638]Cheap fix? Wonder how many miles it will go before it dies? Were the cylinders honed before pistons with new rings were put back in? were the top 2 rings installed with the correct sides up? Couldn’t believe he power washed the inside of the cylinders!!![/quote]
I know.. I couldn’t believe it myself haha I just had to post it.
It may be one of the side cap bolts.. All Honda compact V6 engines have 4 main bearing cap side bolts on each side of the block that connect into the side of the Main bearing cap’s where the crankshaft lives. Those bolt threads are not sealed at the factory and sometimes the oil can seep past the threads and washer and cause a leak on either side of the block.
The fix is to remove the bolt, clean it and apply HondaBond HT to the threads and washer contact area and torque the bolt to spec. I’m not saying this is your problem but that may be one of those bolts that’s leaking.
It may be one of the side cap bolts.. All Honda compact V6 engines have 4 main bearing cap side bolts on each side of the block that connect into the side of the Main bearing cap’s where the crankshaft lives. Those bolt threads are not sealed at the factory and sometimes the oil can seep past the threads and washer and cause a leak on either side of the block.
The fix is to remove the bolt, clean it and apply HondaBond HT to the threads and washer contact area and torque the bolt to spec. I’m not saying this is your problem but that may be one of those bolts that’s leaking.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=52557]This is typical. You need to carefully line up the mark and then install the belt. The rear cam has spring tension on it due to the valve springs. You need to get it just right. I use a long straight wrench to do this. If you use a ratchet there may be too much play in the tool which can cause the cam to move when you get it close to the mark. It CAN be done, it just takes a little patients. There is no special tool or anything for this, it’s not needed. You just need to get it in just the right spot before you install the belt.[/quote]
Ericthecarguy is exactly correct.. I asked one of the old timers at Honda what to do about this problem and he said you have to find the “sweet spot” and the camshaft pulley will hold there, which is exactly what Eric is saying. That’s what I did and it worked perfectly.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=52557]This is typical. You need to carefully line up the mark and then install the belt. The rear cam has spring tension on it due to the valve springs. You need to get it just right. I use a long straight wrench to do this. If you use a ratchet there may be too much play in the tool which can cause the cam to move when you get it close to the mark. It CAN be done, it just takes a little patients. There is no special tool or anything for this, it’s not needed. You just need to get it in just the right spot before you install the belt.[/quote]
Ericthecarguy is exactly correct.. I asked one of the old timers at Honda what to do about this problem and he said you have to find the “sweet spot” and the camshaft pulley will hold there, which is exactly what Eric is saying. That’s what I did and it worked perfectly.
[quote=”skim3544″ post=52555]VW is very different beast – make sure to look up the car on manual. First of all, many VW do not give you enough room to work on. So you would need to place the car in “Service” position. Takes about 30 minutes to an hour to remove couple of bolts and entire front end disconnects from the frame. If your car requires service position, well only thing I can tell you is it looks really ugly. One time I showed my customer how it looked, he did not want to service the car afterward. Please note that NOT all the cars needs to put into service position for timing belt replacement.
Once you got that out of the way, then next step is aligning of the timing marks, and locking the crank, and cam. Depends on model, all special tools used here. There are no alignment marks on cam/crank pulley for some models. So you have to slide various pin in proper holes to lock the cam and crank in the position BEFORE removing the belt and also check after the belt replacement. The final problem is the timing belt tensioner – which is adjustable. You have to know how to adjust it create proper tension. There are two different tensioners used and both works similar way – turn it clock wise to tension and counter clock wise to loosen – and older model of the tensioner will require a special tool.
With all all the special tools you should be able to do the job in 5 hours.[/quote]
Now I remember why I don’t like Volkswagons…lol
[quote=”skim3544″ post=52555]VW is very different beast – make sure to look up the car on manual. First of all, many VW do not give you enough room to work on. So you would need to place the car in “Service” position. Takes about 30 minutes to an hour to remove couple of bolts and entire front end disconnects from the frame. If your car requires service position, well only thing I can tell you is it looks really ugly. One time I showed my customer how it looked, he did not want to service the car afterward. Please note that NOT all the cars needs to put into service position for timing belt replacement.
Once you got that out of the way, then next step is aligning of the timing marks, and locking the crank, and cam. Depends on model, all special tools used here. There are no alignment marks on cam/crank pulley for some models. So you have to slide various pin in proper holes to lock the cam and crank in the position BEFORE removing the belt and also check after the belt replacement. The final problem is the timing belt tensioner – which is adjustable. You have to know how to adjust it create proper tension. There are two different tensioners used and both works similar way – turn it clock wise to tension and counter clock wise to loosen – and older model of the tensioner will require a special tool.
With all all the special tools you should be able to do the job in 5 hours.[/quote]
Now I remember why I don’t like Volkswagons…lol
Take it easy on that reverse gear. Make sure the car is completely stopped before you shift into reverse. And stay in reverse for a few seconds to make sure it catches completely. Hopefully the rest of the trans. is OK and it will hold.
Take it easy on that reverse gear. Make sure the car is completely stopped before you shift into reverse. And stay in reverse for a few seconds to make sure it catches completely. Hopefully the rest of the trans. is OK and it will hold.
[quote=”Hinoki” post=51053]Scott37300, thanks for the suggestion. I might just do that, but I’m also considering doing this:
1) Go back to the mechanic that hacked on my truck. I’m going to be all nice and apologetic for being worried and ask him to put what he did down on paper (That he added the stop-leak, and the rest of it).
2) Go to the Ford dealer and ask them to go over the truck. See if they think that the engine and/or components might be damaged by what the guy did. Get a repair estimate from the dealer on what it would take to repair it… my guess? ANYTHING that touches the coolant. In this truck, the tranny is, too.
I like to think I don’t ask a lot. I dealt with this guy honestly and in good faith… and he does this. I’m not a litigious person by nature, but man oh MAN, I’m strongly considering suing him for a new engine and everything that the coolant touches.
Sure, I can flush it out any number of dozens of times. But is it gonna get it all out? What about the stuff that’s been in there for this long… and that could gum up the radiator, thermostat, water pump, and at least in theory… even the transmission as it shares the coolant?
I dunno. I just don’t know how to make this right.
-Hinoki[/quote]
A lot of cars have transmission lines that go into the radiator to cool the fluid but that stop leak gunk wont affect that because it does not mix with the transmission fluid.
That’s a great idea to get down on paper what he did and bring the truck to Ford to see if any damage has been done and have them access the truck. Good luck!
[quote=”Hinoki” post=51053]Scott37300, thanks for the suggestion. I might just do that, but I’m also considering doing this:
1) Go back to the mechanic that hacked on my truck. I’m going to be all nice and apologetic for being worried and ask him to put what he did down on paper (That he added the stop-leak, and the rest of it).
2) Go to the Ford dealer and ask them to go over the truck. See if they think that the engine and/or components might be damaged by what the guy did. Get a repair estimate from the dealer on what it would take to repair it… my guess? ANYTHING that touches the coolant. In this truck, the tranny is, too.
I like to think I don’t ask a lot. I dealt with this guy honestly and in good faith… and he does this. I’m not a litigious person by nature, but man oh MAN, I’m strongly considering suing him for a new engine and everything that the coolant touches.
Sure, I can flush it out any number of dozens of times. But is it gonna get it all out? What about the stuff that’s been in there for this long… and that could gum up the radiator, thermostat, water pump, and at least in theory… even the transmission as it shares the coolant?
I dunno. I just don’t know how to make this right.
-Hinoki[/quote]
A lot of cars have transmission lines that go into the radiator to cool the fluid but that stop leak gunk wont affect that because it does not mix with the transmission fluid.
That’s a great idea to get down on paper what he did and bring the truck to Ford to see if any damage has been done and have them access the truck. Good luck!