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It looks like you missed that bottom left bolt underneath the ‘5’ in the second picture. I know I said 4 bolts but that’s what it looks like to me.
It looks like you missed that bottom left bolt underneath the ‘5’ in the second picture. I know I said 4 bolts but that’s what it looks like to me.
OK Thank you!
OK Thank you!
Ok so what I would do is, remove the valve cover – the gasket may be ok since its fairly new you said, but best bet is to buy a new one.
On the far left is the camshaft holder that will have four bolts that holds the seal down, remove those bolts and lightly tap on it with a rubber/plastic mallet to shake it and break it loose. You might have to pry up on it too with a flat-head screwdriver like the guy in the video above did. Be careful where you pry, those holders have dowel pins in them you don’t want to damage the cylinder head up though…
After the seal is removed I would tighten that cam holder back down to specification and tap the new seal in with a appropriate sized socket (one that fits the circle seal).You may not have enough room if the distributor is right there though. If that’s going to be an issue remove the distributor too. IF you remove the distributor scribe a mark where it meets the head to keep the ignition timing close on.
After that spray the area down with Brake Kleen – start it up and check for leaks. Also I would buy that seal the guy in the video above used, it looks like pretty good quality.
Ok so what I would do is, remove the valve cover – the gasket may be ok since its fairly new you said, but best bet is to buy a new one.
On the far left is the camshaft holder that will have four bolts that holds the seal down, remove those bolts and lightly tap on it with a rubber/plastic mallet to shake it and break it loose. You might have to pry up on it too with a flat-head screwdriver like the guy in the video above did. Be careful where you pry, those holders have dowel pins in them you don’t want to damage the cylinder head up though…
After the seal is removed I would tighten that cam holder back down to specification and tap the new seal in with a appropriate sized socket (one that fits the circle seal).You may not have enough room if the distributor is right there though. If that’s going to be an issue remove the distributor too. IF you remove the distributor scribe a mark where it meets the head to keep the ignition timing close on.
After that spray the area down with Brake Kleen – start it up and check for leaks. Also I would buy that seal the guy in the video above used, it looks like pretty good quality.
Correct
Correct
Ok which side of the cylinder head? The pulley side for the timing belt or the distributor side?
Ok which side of the cylinder head? The pulley side for the timing belt or the distributor side?
Let me know if it is a 4 cylinder or 6 cylinder. If it’s the 6 cylinder I can guide you right through it. Let us know.
I can help if its 4 cylinder too but I have done the 6 cylinder personally.
Let me know if it is a 4 cylinder or 6 cylinder. If it’s the 6 cylinder I can guide you right through it. Let us know.
I can help if its 4 cylinder too but I have done the 6 cylinder personally.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=55229][quote=”JamesB1985″ post=53093]It may be one of the side cap bolts.. All Honda compact V6 engines have 4 main bearing cap side bolts on each side of the block that connect into the side of the Main bearing cap’s where the crankshaft lives. Those bolt threads are not sealed at the factory and sometimes the oil can seep past the threads and washer and cause a leak on either side of the block.
The fix is to remove the bolt, clean it and apply HondaBond HT to the threads and washer contact area and torque the bolt to spec. I’m not saying this is your problem but that may be one of those bolts that’s leaking.[/quote]
It’s not a good practice to put ANYTHING on the threads of a main cap bolt as it will adversely effect the torque. In addition the torque is critical on this bolt and for that reason I don’t recommend removing it if it is indeed the issue.
I’d like to see a picture of the leak to see what you’re referring to.[/quote]
I’d normally agree but this information is direct from American Honda Motor Co. – June 2009 ServiceNews article.
Attachments:[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=55229][quote=”JamesB1985″ post=53093]It may be one of the side cap bolts.. All Honda compact V6 engines have 4 main bearing cap side bolts on each side of the block that connect into the side of the Main bearing cap’s where the crankshaft lives. Those bolt threads are not sealed at the factory and sometimes the oil can seep past the threads and washer and cause a leak on either side of the block.
The fix is to remove the bolt, clean it and apply HondaBond HT to the threads and washer contact area and torque the bolt to spec. I’m not saying this is your problem but that may be one of those bolts that’s leaking.[/quote]
It’s not a good practice to put ANYTHING on the threads of a main cap bolt as it will adversely effect the torque. In addition the torque is critical on this bolt and for that reason I don’t recommend removing it if it is indeed the issue.
I’d like to see a picture of the leak to see what you’re referring to.[/quote]
I’d normally agree but this information is direct from American Honda Motor Co. – June 2009 ServiceNews article.
Attachments:[quote=”johnbkobb” post=53638]Cheap fix? Wonder how many miles it will go before it dies? Were the cylinders honed before pistons with new rings were put back in? were the top 2 rings installed with the correct sides up? Couldn’t believe he power washed the inside of the cylinders!!![/quote]
I know.. I couldn’t believe it myself haha I just had to post it.
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