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Ok so there’s actually a Honda Technical Service Bulletin on this problem. In it they recommend basically replacing the whole A/c System.
But for your question on how to tell if the system is contaminated, this is how you do it..
First you have to remove the refrigerant from the system. Then you remove both lines at the A/C compressor, the one closest to the pulley is the suction line, the other is the discharge line.Swabbing the inside of the discharge line tells you if you need to replace the compressor but I think you already know you have to replace the compressor. But if you swab around on the inside of the hose passage on the suction port of the compressor and find any metal particles or any dark gray or black residue, this indicates the whole system is contaminated and needs to be replaced as a whole. Condenser, receiver/dryer, suction/discharge lines, expansion valve etc. etc. etc. – Yes a big job indeed.
Does the D4 indicator light come on for 2 seconds after the ignition is first turned on(II)(Key on – Engine Off) position?
– Or is the light on constantly while in the same key position. Either of those could me an problem.Explain how your transmission is acting. Is there any problems besides the D4 light? Maybe flaring? Delayed shift? Is the engine operating normally?
If that light has been blinking like you said there is a Trouble Code stored in the TCM (Trans. Control Module). To get the codes you need to jump the Service Check Connector, it’s a two pin connecter up under the glove-box, I think it’s a blue connector if I remember right. I’ll write down here how Honda’s service manual says to get the codes out of the computer..
“When the TCM senses an abnormality in the input or output systems, the ‘D4’ indicator light in the gauge assembly will blink. However, when the Service Check Connector (located to the lower right of the glove compartment) is connected
with a jumper wire, the ‘D4’ indicator light will blink the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) when the ignition switch is turned on.
—- When the ‘D4’ indicator light has been reported on, connect the two terminals of the Service Check Connector together.
Then turn on the ignition switch and observe the ‘D4’ indicator light.”You can use a piece of wire or paper clip for this Larry.
“Codes 1 through 9 are indicated by individual short blinks, Codes 10 through 15 are indicated by a series of long and
short blinks. One long blink equals 10 short blinks. Add the long and short blinks together to determine the code. After
determining the code, refer to the electrical system Symptom-to-Component Chart on page 14-36 and 37.”“Some PGM-FI problems will also make the indicator light come on. After repairing the PGM-FI system, disconnect
the Back Up fuse (7.5 A) in the under-hood fuse/relay box for more than 10 seconds to reset the TCM memory.”If you need help with the Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC’s) Let me know.
Take your time when you write a reply, your Original Post was hard to understand and makes it harder to help.Does the D4 indicator light come on for 2 seconds after the ignition is first turned on(II)(Key on – Engine Off) position?
– Or is the light on constantly while in the same key position. Either of those could me an problem.Explain how your transmission is acting. Is there any problems besides the D4 light? Maybe flaring? Delayed shift? Is the engine operating normally?
If that light has been blinking like you said there is a Trouble Code stored in the TCM (Trans. Control Module). To get the codes you need to jump the Service Check Connector, it’s a two pin connecter up under the glove-box, I think it’s a blue connector if I remember right. I’ll write down here how Honda’s service manual says to get the codes out of the computer..
“When the TCM senses an abnormality in the input or output systems, the ‘D4’ indicator light in the gauge assembly will blink. However, when the Service Check Connector (located to the lower right of the glove compartment) is connected
with a jumper wire, the ‘D4’ indicator light will blink the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) when the ignition switch is turned on.
—- When the ‘D4’ indicator light has been reported on, connect the two terminals of the Service Check Connector together.
Then turn on the ignition switch and observe the ‘D4’ indicator light.”You can use a piece of wire or paper clip for this Larry.
“Codes 1 through 9 are indicated by individual short blinks, Codes 10 through 15 are indicated by a series of long and
short blinks. One long blink equals 10 short blinks. Add the long and short blinks together to determine the code. After
determining the code, refer to the electrical system Symptom-to-Component Chart on page 14-36 and 37.”“Some PGM-FI problems will also make the indicator light come on. After repairing the PGM-FI system, disconnect
the Back Up fuse (7.5 A) in the under-hood fuse/relay box for more than 10 seconds to reset the TCM memory.”If you need help with the Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC’s) Let me know.
Take your time when you write a reply, your Original Post was hard to understand and makes it harder to help.Ok so the fuel pressure specification is 47-54 PSI but you need a special Honda adapter to tap into the Fuel system by removing the fuel pulsation damper but I doubt you have that adapter..That looks like the only way to accurately check for pressure. I mean you can disconnect the fuel filter bolt but that won’t tell you if you have the Proper pressure.
Do you know if it’s misfiring at idle or not?, or if it just stalls as soon as you take your foot off the accelerator? You very well may have something else left disconnected that you don’t see yet..Did you do a thorough inspection of the whole area you were working in? Make sure all your sensor connections are the right ones and properly connected.
Make sure you check all the vacuum lines. Make sure there is none disconnected at the Intake Manifold. Check to make sure the brake Booster vacuum line is connected. Also make sure those vacuum lines aren’t cracked or damaged. I’m thinking you have a vacuum leak by your description.
You can also check the terminals on the ignition wire – check both sides, the side at the spark plug and at the distributor side. Check if theres corrosion or damage – if corrosion – clean it. If damaged – replace. If you have a Multimeter you can do a resistence check – If over 25 Ohms replace the wire.
Ok so the fuel pressure specification is 47-54 PSI but you need a special Honda adapter to tap into the Fuel system by removing the fuel pulsation damper but I doubt you have that adapter..That looks like the only way to accurately check for pressure. I mean you can disconnect the fuel filter bolt but that won’t tell you if you have the Proper pressure.
Do you know if it’s misfiring at idle or not?, or if it just stalls as soon as you take your foot off the accelerator? You very well may have something else left disconnected that you don’t see yet..Did you do a thorough inspection of the whole area you were working in? Make sure all your sensor connections are the right ones and properly connected.
Make sure you check all the vacuum lines. Make sure there is none disconnected at the Intake Manifold. Check to make sure the brake Booster vacuum line is connected. Also make sure those vacuum lines aren’t cracked or damaged. I’m thinking you have a vacuum leak by your description.
You can also check the terminals on the ignition wire – check both sides, the side at the spark plug and at the distributor side. Check if theres corrosion or damage – if corrosion – clean it. If damaged – replace. If you have a Multimeter you can do a resistence check – If over 25 Ohms replace the wire.
Nope – no leaks. I think I probably heated up the gears from having so little fluid in there and when I drained the little bit of MTF that was in there the fluid was gray..I hope it’s going to be alright.
Nope – no leaks. I think I probably heated up the gears from having so little fluid in there and when I drained the little bit of MTF that was in there the fluid was gray..I hope it’s going to be alright.
Give us more information – 1998 Accord … 4, 2 door. 6/ 4 cylinder? EX, LX, etc. than I can help you a lot more.
Give us more information – 1998 Accord … 4, 2 door. 6/ 4 cylinder? EX, LX, etc. than I can help you a lot more.
Hmmm….I still can’t find a seal for there at any part’s site.. Sorry I couldn’t help you more. If you want to try again that cap should come up you just really have to give it a good jam. Probably a strong flat-head with a hammer.
If its not leaking from there, Spray down the whole area and start the engine look for leaks, drive it around a little and look to see if you can see where it’s leaking from. Take ETCG’s advice and look into that too.If your still having trouble bring it to Honda/Independent Shop. Good luck!
Hmmm….I still can’t find a seal for there at any part’s site.. Sorry I couldn’t help you more. If you want to try again that cap should come up you just really have to give it a good jam. Probably a strong flat-head with a hammer.
If its not leaking from there, Spray down the whole area and start the engine look for leaks, drive it around a little and look to see if you can see where it’s leaking from. Take ETCG’s advice and look into that too.If your still having trouble bring it to Honda/Independent Shop. Good luck!
Found out what it was – extremely low on MTF. Less than half a quart, drove about 80 miles like that – it sounds like less noise but I don’t know if I’ve done permanent damage.. Anyone?
Found out what it was – extremely low on MTF. Less than half a quart, drove about 80 miles like that – it sounds like less noise but I don’t know if I’ve done permanent damage.. Anyone?
Yes but the cam should stick out of both sides of the cylinder head – requiring 2 seals, I believe – correct me if I’m wrong.
I can’t find a part number for that side of the head though. Is it an LX, EX, 2,4 door? I know that cam cap comes off though, it’s just really stuck on there.