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Really it would be better to check out the car first so you could give us a lot more information, or were just guessing really.
First thing I would do is check to make sure oil is at the proper level when you get the car. After that I would check the timing to see if everything is in time. Did you replace the Balance Shaft belt too? I believe there both supposed to be changed at the same time.
I think your on the right track with the tensioner being the culprit though because if it was driving fine then the tensioner started losing tension on the belt it wouldn’t crank the sprocket to drive the oil pump at the proper speed which would cause low oil pressure hence the oil light. I’m doubting just straight up oil pump failure.
Usually you can just change the valves if they hit the pistons but obviously check for damage on the pistons and cylinder walls. From what you say happened/heard it sounds like that’s what happened with clunking noise. Let us know what happened!
Really it would be better to check out the car first so you could give us a lot more information, or were just guessing really.
First thing I would do is check to make sure oil is at the proper level when you get the car. After that I would check the timing to see if everything is in time. Did you replace the Balance Shaft belt too? I believe there both supposed to be changed at the same time.
I think your on the right track with the tensioner being the culprit though because if it was driving fine then the tensioner started losing tension on the belt it wouldn’t crank the sprocket to drive the oil pump at the proper speed which would cause low oil pressure hence the oil light. I’m doubting just straight up oil pump failure.
Usually you can just change the valves if they hit the pistons but obviously check for damage on the pistons and cylinder walls. From what you say happened/heard it sounds like that’s what happened with clunking noise. Let us know what happened!
I’ve NEVER heard of using locktight on Connecting Rod Bolts of Main Cap Bolts. Oil? Yes. ARP Lube? Yes – Never locktight.
I’ve NEVER heard of using locktight on Connecting Rod Bolts of Main Cap Bolts. Oil? Yes. ARP Lube? Yes – Never locktight.
Does it drive around fine? Or are you not able to test drive it because of the stalling. I was wondering if there is a problem with the throttle linkage. One time I did a big job like that and I had the throttle nut’s by the linkage mis-adjusted – just a thought.
I’m surprised you didn’t replace that knock sensor. I don’t believe that would cause this problem but you can damage the engine without that sensor. Now I know why you didn’t though.. I just looked up the price online – $135 lol wow. P/N:30530-P5M-013.
How is your idle? What does the car idle at roughly? RPM level.
One thing I’d also like to mention, Honda manual says to check: 1)Fuel Pressure, 2)Ignition Wires, 3)Adjust Idle Speed and the 4th thing is the Brake Pedal Position Switch Signal Circuit. I’m not sure why but they want you to check that. Check to see if your brake lights are on with stepping on the brakes. That’s the first step for that.
Also I think you may also want to check ignition timing just in case. Not sure if you have a Timing Light…Did you check the fuel pressure by removing the fuel filter nut yet? Did you see fuel coming out?
Does it drive around fine? Or are you not able to test drive it because of the stalling. I was wondering if there is a problem with the throttle linkage. One time I did a big job like that and I had the throttle nut’s by the linkage mis-adjusted – just a thought.
I’m surprised you didn’t replace that knock sensor. I don’t believe that would cause this problem but you can damage the engine without that sensor. Now I know why you didn’t though.. I just looked up the price online – $135 lol wow. P/N:30530-P5M-013.
How is your idle? What does the car idle at roughly? RPM level.
One thing I’d also like to mention, Honda manual says to check: 1)Fuel Pressure, 2)Ignition Wires, 3)Adjust Idle Speed and the 4th thing is the Brake Pedal Position Switch Signal Circuit. I’m not sure why but they want you to check that. Check to see if your brake lights are on with stepping on the brakes. That’s the first step for that.
Also I think you may also want to check ignition timing just in case. Not sure if you have a Timing Light…Did you check the fuel pressure by removing the fuel filter nut yet? Did you see fuel coming out?
[quote=”pishale” post=67149]A bought a fuel tester but yes I do not have the adapter to check the pressure of the gasoline. I been checking and rechecking the vacuum hoses and there seems not to be any leaks. The only strange thing is that the vacuum line from the pressure regulator has to be disconnected in order for the car not to stall, I also noted that when I cover the hose with my finger the car chokes and dies I try this for several times and it keep on dying when I cover that vacuum with my finger. Is this something normal? I also check and there no misfiring codes, car car does not idle, and it does stall as soon as I put my foot on the accelerator. (Only when the FPR is connected)
And if any body have any idea where can a buy an adapter to check the fuel pressure???I did forgot to mention that when I removed the cylinder head I broke the nock sensor that I did not replace[/quote]
The fuel gauge adapter is looking pretty pricey in my opinion – $80.00 roughly, depending on where you get it – Part #:07VAJ-0040100
Not to mention you need a gauge which probably only the Honda gauge will fit that adapter. The fuel gauge Part # is 07406-0040001 , which looks around $50.00.So if you don’t mess with the Fuel Pressure Reg. your car won’t stall right?
[quote=”pishale” post=67149]A bought a fuel tester but yes I do not have the adapter to check the pressure of the gasoline. I been checking and rechecking the vacuum hoses and there seems not to be any leaks. The only strange thing is that the vacuum line from the pressure regulator has to be disconnected in order for the car not to stall, I also noted that when I cover the hose with my finger the car chokes and dies I try this for several times and it keep on dying when I cover that vacuum with my finger. Is this something normal? I also check and there no misfiring codes, car car does not idle, and it does stall as soon as I put my foot on the accelerator. (Only when the FPR is connected)
And if any body have any idea where can a buy an adapter to check the fuel pressure???I did forgot to mention that when I removed the cylinder head I broke the nock sensor that I did not replace[/quote]
The fuel gauge adapter is looking pretty pricey in my opinion – $80.00 roughly, depending on where you get it – Part #:07VAJ-0040100
Not to mention you need a gauge which probably only the Honda gauge will fit that adapter. The fuel gauge Part # is 07406-0040001 , which looks around $50.00.So if you don’t mess with the Fuel Pressure Reg. your car won’t stall right?
Well for troubleshooting ’14’ it looks like a bunch of electrical testing with a special harness Honda has. Saying possible causes – 1)Short or open in FAS(BRN/WHT) wire
2) Trouble in ECMCode 1. Possible Causes:Disconnected lock-up control
solenoid valve A connector.
-Short or open in lock-up control
solenoid valve A wire
-Faulty lock-up control solenoid
valve A2 Poss. Cause) Disconnected lock-up control
solenoid valve B connector
-Short or open in lock-up control
solenoid valve B wire
-Faulty lock-up control solenoid
valve B7)Disconnected shift control solenoid
valve A connector
-Short or open in shift control
solenoid valve A wire
-Faulty shift control solenoid
valve8 ) Disconnected shift control
solenod valve B connector
-Short or open in shift control
solenoid valve B wire
-Faulty shift control solenoid
valve BThat’s a long list. And they have troubleshooting tree’s with electrical tests with special tools or a Electrical meter that’s too long to type out. It looks like a lot of the possible causes are electrical connector stuff. Take a look at your shift solenoids connectors and wires if you know where they are. Make sure everything’s connected properly. Sometimes just disconnecting and connecting a connector will actually fix the problem with an electrical item (I’ve seen it first hand)
You may have to bring it to Honda. Have you ever had your Exhaust Gas Recirculation system worked on? I know they have problems with those ports clogging up with carbon on those cars..
Well for troubleshooting ’14’ it looks like a bunch of electrical testing with a special harness Honda has. Saying possible causes – 1)Short or open in FAS(BRN/WHT) wire
2) Trouble in ECMCode 1. Possible Causes:Disconnected lock-up control
solenoid valve A connector.
-Short or open in lock-up control
solenoid valve A wire
-Faulty lock-up control solenoid
valve A2 Poss. Cause) Disconnected lock-up control
solenoid valve B connector
-Short or open in lock-up control
solenoid valve B wire
-Faulty lock-up control solenoid
valve B7)Disconnected shift control solenoid
valve A connector
-Short or open in shift control
solenoid valve A wire
-Faulty shift control solenoid
valve8 ) Disconnected shift control
solenod valve B connector
-Short or open in shift control
solenoid valve B wire
-Faulty shift control solenoid
valve BThat’s a long list. And they have troubleshooting tree’s with electrical tests with special tools or a Electrical meter that’s too long to type out. It looks like a lot of the possible causes are electrical connector stuff. Take a look at your shift solenoids connectors and wires if you know where they are. Make sure everything’s connected properly. Sometimes just disconnecting and connecting a connector will actually fix the problem with an electrical item (I’ve seen it first hand)
You may have to bring it to Honda. Have you ever had your Exhaust Gas Recirculation system worked on? I know they have problems with those ports clogging up with carbon on those cars..
Ok so there’s actually a Honda Technical Service Bulletin on this problem. In it they recommend basically replacing the whole A/c System.
But for your question on how to tell if the system is contaminated, this is how you do it..
First you have to remove the refrigerant from the system. Then you remove both lines at the A/C compressor, the one closest to the pulley is the suction line, the other is the discharge line.Swabbing the inside of the discharge line tells you if you need to replace the compressor but I think you already know you have to replace the compressor. But if you swab around on the inside of the hose passage on the suction port of the compressor and find any metal particles or any dark gray or black residue, this indicates the whole system is contaminated and needs to be replaced as a whole. Condenser, receiver/dryer, suction/discharge lines, expansion valve etc. etc. etc. – Yes a big job indeed.