[Jake]

Thank you for the reply.
Yes, the copper test strips (Phoenix systems at $60 a jar… worth it IF it works) is the only one I have seen, but there are a few different references to it.

I still am looking for information of accurately identifying when fluid needs to be changed. “with tire rotation” as you suggest, which I do every 6K, that is every other month on the highway (little braking) commuter car. with another vehicle that only is driven 2-3K/year, that tire rotation and fluid change is 24-36 months.

there has got to be a better way. :huh:

Thank you again for the detailed response.
Jake

[Jake]

Thanks for the reply.
changing fluid in reservoir- Yes, some consider that a “brake fluid change” but it is half a job. the system is non-circulating so the fluid in the lines at the various components (calipers, lining, ABS, brake cylinder….) remains old/dirty/watered etc… I agree. It is better than nothing.

topping of fluid in master cylinder w/o installation of new pads/rotors, shoes/drums is not recommended by ETCG and other sites. the lowered fluid in master cylinder is one indicator that your pads are wearing down and will need replacement soon. hopefully, the wear indicator on rotor (causing screeching noise) will occur before all lining is gone and rivets start digging into rotor.
also, with some cars, as the fluid gets low it will cause and indicator light on your dash will go ON. The master cylinder top has a diaphragm that expands as fluid goes down to fill the void in the master cylinder and lessen the amount of air that introduces potential for moisture to mingle w/ fluid in the reservoir. topping off the fluid before changing pads/rotors, shoes/drums defeats both of these indicators of brake wear. Obviously, if you have a leak somewhere in the system, topping it off will prevent air or other disaster, but that is temporary stop gap until the leak can be located and component replaced.

[Jake]

yep. ALLDATA is great site. Fleet maintenance at my job uses it but can’t extend to POV.s At 4 cars, buying it is a little heavier than I was looking for (ETCG had $8 for one car… Alldata is $45 for one car + $30 each additional car. It’ll pay for itself in detailed info & repair time. I was just looking for better deal.
Thanks guys

[Jake]

yep. ALLDATA is great site. Fleet maintenance at my job uses it but can’t extend to POV.s At 4 cars, buying it is a little heavier than I was looking for (ETCG had $8 for one car… Alldata is $45 for one car + $30 each additional car. It’ll pay for itself in detailed info & repair time. I was just looking for better deal.
Thanks guys

[Jake]

Thanks for quick reply.

I recognize the need to lubricate engine and AT seals by starting the engine. I have been told that short rides (or engine idling alone w/o driving)is bad b/c it introduces moisture to both systems. I thought it is necessary to ride vehicle for 20,30 minutes to burn off moisture.

Thanks again for quick reply and good information.

What do you think of RESTORE, LUCAS, TECHRON?

[Jake]

Thanks for quick reply.

I recognize the need to lubricate engine and AT seals by starting the engine. I have been told that short rides (or engine idling alone w/o driving)is bad b/c it introduces moisture to both systems. I thought it is necessary to ride vehicle for 20,30 minutes to burn off moisture.

Thanks again for quick reply and good information.

What do you think of RESTORE, LUCAS, TECHRON?

[Jake]

yep. I’m sure you are right about suits and business protocols. I appreciate the perspective.

[Jake]

yep. I’m sure you are right about suits and business protocols. I appreciate the perspective.

[Jake]

banana:
Thanks again for all who replied – some appeared too complicated (just trying to make an omelet, not a soufflé). After watching ETCG vid saying “9 out 10 times the O2 sensor is bad…” but he went on how to check the wiring. I spoke to another guy and he said same thing. “if you haven’t done anything to the car’s wiring, exhaust, etc and CHECK ENGINE light popped on it’s gonna be the sensor- especially w/ 120K+ miles. I played the odds and just replaced the O2 sensor.

I bought the DENSO sensor which is direct fit. After coming back from parts store, I sprayed some WD Blue Torch on sensor at cat converter. I had quick snack, sprayed a little more and got to work. It came off w/o ANY issue. DENSO included some copper color anti-sieze, which I used. A little wiggling to get the threads started, but it finally went in. Tightened w/o problem I had disconnect the battery negative cable to reset the code. I d/c’d the cable and then reconnected. Light remained on. I called my friend who said to d/c the cable for a couple minutes, THEN re-connect. This worked. ALL went well. Light went out.
Hanneman gave same suggestion. THX !!

Fun getting “hands dirty” and saved a bunch $ and time.

Look forward to next task. Hopefully, it won’t be roadside emergency and I will have access to tools, garage, and ETCG vids !!

Peace
Jake

P0141 OBD code. for Honda 2004, 2.4 litre = “in catalytic converter”

[Jake]

banana:
Thanks again for all who replied – some appeared too complicated (just trying to make an omelet, not a soufflé). After watching ETCG vid saying “9 out 10 times the O2 sensor is bad…” but he went on how to check the wiring. I spoke to another guy and he said same thing. “if you haven’t done anything to the car’s wiring, exhaust, etc and CHECK ENGINE light popped on it’s gonna be the sensor- especially w/ 120K+ miles. I played the odds and just replaced the O2 sensor.

I bought the DENSO sensor which is direct fit. After coming back from parts store, I sprayed some WD Blue Torch on sensor at cat converter. I had quick snack, sprayed a little more and got to work. It came off w/o ANY issue. DENSO included some copper color anti-sieze, which I used. A little wiggling to get the threads started, but it finally went in. Tightened w/o problem I had disconnect the battery negative cable to reset the code. I d/c’d the cable and then reconnected. Light remained on. I called my friend who said to d/c the cable for a couple minutes, THEN re-connect. This worked. ALL went well. Light went out.
Hanneman gave same suggestion. THX !!

Fun getting “hands dirty” and saved a bunch $ and time.

Look forward to next task. Hopefully, it won’t be roadside emergency and I will have access to tools, garage, and ETCG vids !!

Peace
Jake

P0141 OBD code. for Honda 2004, 2.4 litre = “in catalytic converter”

[Jake]

FANTASTIC how fast you’all respond.

1. How do I “clear the code?”
2. Yep. ETCG & other site strongly encourage OEM direct replacement sensors.

I will be at the car next weekend and attempt testing w/ multimeter & replace sensor if necessary.

[Jake]

FANTASTIC how fast you’all respond.

1. How do I “clear the code?”
2. Yep. ETCG & other site strongly encourage OEM direct replacement sensors.

I will be at the car next weekend and attempt testing w/ multimeter & replace sensor if necessary.

[Jake]

Thanks for your responses. There are no troubles w/ the car; or performance issues. autozone clerk said vehicle will not pass Virginia State Emissions w/ “check engine” light on, and underlying issue will probably cause it to fail the vehicle when hooked up to emissions tester.

The car belongs to my g/f and she is not observant about performance issues; she has no information on gas mileage change; different odors; etc…. I have little history driving the car and cannot comment on change. The car starts fine and acceleration appears normal. There is no noise from leaky exhaust.
Last tune up? I just changed plugs & air filter (car has 142K) but the indicator light remains on. g/f has no information about service records.

?? O2 sensor post the catalytic converter?? I easily found the one mounted in the converter and followed the lead to it’s location under the RF seat- exactly as ETCG video shows. The wiring is two black, one blue, one white.

ETCG vid shows replacing the sensor and talks about testing it w/ OHM meter, which I do not own. I can probably get my hands on an OHM meter, but vid does not show how to test the sensor. ETCG only shows the one sensor in the catalytic converter. ETCG does not say if sensor in the video is “upstream, downstream, post-cat, etc…”

“college man” Yep. that is exact sensor location & wiring path ETCG shows in the video and that is on the vehicle. The sensor cost ranges from $99 Bosch, $149 Denso, $239 NGK + $20 for “O2 sensor socket” (socket costs too little for autozone to rent/loan)…. I would like to know I am replacing the correct sensor before spending that money.

Thanks again for the responses.

Anyone have details/ instructions on how ETCG used the ohm meter to test the sensor?

[Jake]

Thanks for your responses. There are no troubles w/ the car; or performance issues. autozone clerk said vehicle will not pass Virginia State Emissions w/ “check engine” light on, and underlying issue will probably cause it to fail the vehicle when hooked up to emissions tester.

The car belongs to my g/f and she is not observant about performance issues; she has no information on gas mileage change; different odors; etc…. I have little history driving the car and cannot comment on change. The car starts fine and acceleration appears normal. There is no noise from leaky exhaust.
Last tune up? I just changed plugs & air filter (car has 142K) but the indicator light remains on. g/f has no information about service records.

?? O2 sensor post the catalytic converter?? I easily found the one mounted in the converter and followed the lead to it’s location under the RF seat- exactly as ETCG video shows. The wiring is two black, one blue, one white.

ETCG vid shows replacing the sensor and talks about testing it w/ OHM meter, which I do not own. I can probably get my hands on an OHM meter, but vid does not show how to test the sensor. ETCG only shows the one sensor in the catalytic converter. ETCG does not say if sensor in the video is “upstream, downstream, post-cat, etc…”

“college man” Yep. that is exact sensor location & wiring path ETCG shows in the video and that is on the vehicle. The sensor cost ranges from $99 Bosch, $149 Denso, $239 NGK + $20 for “O2 sensor socket” (socket costs too little for autozone to rent/loan)…. I would like to know I am replacing the correct sensor before spending that money.

Thanks again for the responses.

Anyone have details/ instructions on how ETCG used the ohm meter to test the sensor?

[Jake]

thanks for prompt reply.
Can you better explain the differences/ similarities btwn CALIPER GREASE (CRC), DIELECTRIC GREASE (Permatex), SUPER LUBE, and SILICONE PASTE (3M).
Thanks

[Author]

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